Food and wine pairing in Trentino

For many foodies, Italy is way up there on the must-visit list. Not only are there world-class restaurants in all the big towns, even the smallest villages boast places where the chefs (who are often self-taught) take pride in bringing out the best in the ingredients they work with.

Regionality is king in Italy, of course, and local traditions influence even the most innovative of chefs. This is definitely the case with Marcus Baumgartner, who was recently awarded a Michelin star for his work at Maso Franch in Trentino’s Valle di Cembra – although that’s not to say that he’s unaware of trends in top-class international cooking.

A recent dinner there kicked off with escalopes of goose liver (a nod towards the cuisine of Central Europe – Austria is only a few kilometres away, over the Brenner Pass) served with marinated apricots and aged balsamic vinegar. Although the dish itself was a success – the sweet-sharp flavours of the apricots and balsamic proving a perfect foil to the rich livers – the wine match was a catastrophe. A Pinot Noir Pavia IGT 2006 from Canaletto provided a horrendous mismatch, with not enough acidity, too much tannin (even though the tannins were relatively gentle) and altogether the wrong kind of fruit.

The next course – mullet with a salad of thinly shaved raw artichokes dressed in a sharp lemon vinaigrette – could easily have proved equally disastrous: vinaigrette, citrus and artichokes are not really known for their food friendliness. But Santa Tresa’s Rino Janka IGT 2006, a southern blend of Grillo and Viognier, struck exactly the right balance. Its fresh minerality worked beautifully with the tricky ingredients, while its ripe fruit highlighted the sweetness of the mullet fillets.

A rich, buttery lasagne with lobster and green asparagus was paired with two wines, both from Cantina La Vis. The Ritratto Bianco 2003, an unusual blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling, had had enough time to develop a rich, honeyed complexity, but the vintage’s lack of acidity made it a slightly clumsy wine. As a match for the dish, it was just pipped at the post by a DOC Chardonnay 2006, whose light, crisp style worked well with the asparagus without being overwhelmed by the lobster.

The next course, a tribute to the local game hunting tradition, was a risotto of pigeon enriched by the addition of a Rosso di Sorni 2006, a juicy, fruit-packed wine made of Lagrein and Teroldego. Although the pigeon could arguably have been better offset by something a touch more sophisticated, perhaps a red with a touch of gaminess to add depth to the red fruit, the combination bounced along fairly pleasantly.

Our appetites flagging slightly, we moved on to the coup de grace, a beef fillet served with a Port sauce and a chicory and potato gratin. This was partnered by a San Martino IGT Toscana 2001 from Villa Cafaggio, a 100% Sangiovese made from three specially selected clones. Its richness and depth worked well with the robust flavours on the plate.

We rallied our appetites for the final assault on a plateful of buckwheat canoli filled with chestnut mousse and quince and a sauce made from strawberry wine, all washed down with a glassful of the Cantina’s Cru Mandolaia Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2006. This versatile sweet wine, which was all zesty citrus fruit with the previous night’s citrus-based pudding showed a different, more honeyed face with the canola, marrying harmoniously with nut and fruit flavours.

The Maso, which is owned by the local co-operative, the Cantina La Vis, is perched on a hillside overlooking the terraced vineyards of the Dolomites. In addition to its Michelin-starred restaurant, the Maso is also a hotel, with a dozen or so comfortably furnished rooms (from €95 per night, inc breakfast). It makes a great base from which to explore the surrounding countryside, where there’s good walking to be had and plenty of stunning scenery. Visits to local wine producers are easy to arrange and the streets of nearby Trento are lined with chic shops and cosy bars. The hotel is also within an easy hour’s drive of both Verona and Lake Garda, both of which have plenty to offer visitors to the region.

A few more places to check out if you’re in the area:

Agritur El Volt, Piazza Alpini No.8 Fraz, Palu’ Giovo, tel: +39 0461 684 132.

A visit to the Al Volt Agriturismo (which is located in a village near Maso Franch) provides the visitor with a real insight into the traditional life of local farmers. Part of the house is exactly as it was during the early half of the 20th century (and so pretty much as it has been for centuries. Guests can tuck into home-made wine, pickles, bread and charcuterie, or even a full meal, by the light of an open fire during winter or out on the terrace overlooking the mountainous landscape on a warm summer’s evening (by arrangement).

Osteria il Cappello, Piazza B Lunelli 5, Trento, tel: +39 0461 235 850.

The Osteria il Capello is simple and informal. What it does best is honest, down-to-earth grub based on local produce. It’s not fancy, but the welcome is warm, the wine list is reasonable and the prices are low.

Scrigno del Duomo, Piazza del Duomo 29, Trento, tel: +39 0461 220 030.

If you fancy something a bit grander, the Scrigno del Duomo is arguably Trento’s best restaurant – it’s even got the Michelin star to prove it. You can stop by for a drink in the wine bar (there’s about 1,000 bins on the list) or you can opt for the full monty in the restaurant, which specialises in local, traditional dishes like strangolapreti, roast rabbit with polenta and strudel.

Alla Fassa, Via Monsignor Nascimbeni 13, Castelletto di Brenzone, tel: +39 045 7430 319.

On a sunny day there are few more enjoyable things to do than to spend a long, leisurely lunchtime on the shores of Lake Garda enjoying wonderfully fresh fish. Alla Fassa specialises in dishes based on fish caught straight out of the lake, but also incorporates plenty of other local produce. The passion for food also extends to the 100 or so bottles – most of which are also available by the glass.

La Bottega del Vino, Via Scudo di Francia 3, Verona, tel: +39 045 8004 535.

This atmospheric Victorian Gothic wine bar/restaurant is deservedly popular with locals and visitors alike. The cellar boasts 80,000 bottles, but if you prefer to sample a range of wines, some 50 or so are available by the glass. Traditional dishes like polenta and bacon or baccala vicentina are served in hearty portions.

Al Capitan della Cittadella, Piazza Cittadella 7/a, Verona, tel: +39 045 595 157.

I’ve not been to Al Capitan yet myself, but a friend of mine who knows Verona (and its restaurants) inside out swears it’s the best fish restaurant he’s been to in ages. On the basis of his recommendation alone, I reckon the Al Capitan must be worth a punt next time you’re in Verona.

Natasha Hughes is a freelance food and drink writer who writes for Decanter, Wine & Spirit, Delicious, Off Licence News and Traveller. She also has her own blog 3 Little Words

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