News and views | A model wine-pairing experience

News and views

A model wine-pairing experience

On my last day on Mendoza I had one of the most sophisticated winery restaurant pairing experiences I’ve ever come across, quite worthy of the Napa Valley. Ironically it was at Ruca Malen, who made the Malbec I enjoyed at Don Julio in Buenos Aires in Mendoza on the first day of the trip.

The winery, a comparatively recent one which was founded in 1998, was set up by two former employees of Domaine Chandon and makes a classy range of wines which are stocked in the UK by Corney and Barrow.

The restaurant serves a set 5 course tasting menu, four of which are paired with a different wine. That sounds a bit heavy for lunchtime but the first two courses are canap sized and served with small tasting glasses.

Fresh cheese terrine with olive oil and citrus gel and Granny Smith apple with Yauquen Chardonnay 2007.
Yauquen (the word apparently means ‘Let’s drink together’) is Ruca Malen’s entry level range but a definite cut above most wines at this sort of price point. The chardonnay was unoaked, fresh and citrussy with a touch of apple that was accentuated by the pairing. Sometimes flavours in a wine can be knocked out if they are mirrored in a dish but not here. No more than a bite but a great way to kick off.

Cured beef rolled with country dough with a malbec and plum compote with Yauquen Malbec 2007
Another well-judged canape - basically a modern twist on an empanada - to show off an forward fruity style of Malbec that reminded me of a Dolcetto. Again adding the little touch (not too much) of red fruit compote accentuated the fruit in the wine

Four cereals sald with fresh peppers and black olives with Ruca Malen Petit Verdot 2007
It’s one of the aims of the restaurant to reflect local dishes and ingredients, hence this combination of quinoa, amaranth, wheat and barley in a slightly spicy dressing. Grains like this can often perform a similar function to meat in softening and rounding out tannins which made the dish a great match with the exotic dark fruits of the Petit Verdot. A clever and original match

Grilled lomo steak with crushed potatoes and salsa criolla with Ruca Malen Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Anyone with any experience of putting food and wine together could of course come up with this match of steak and Cabernet Sauvignon but the chef Lucas Bustos used the salsa, especially the green pepper, to enhance the elegance and structure of the wine, one of the best Cabernets I tasted on my trip. Their top end Kinien Malbec 2007 which is not yet released obviously worked too but to be honest I thought the Cab had the edge.

There was then a Malbec and Yerba Mat sorbet which acted as a palate cleanser and an outrageously rich dessert of Dulce de Leche and cream cheese with which they sensibly didn’t attempt to pair a wine. It was actually far too rich for most dessert wines. If forced to come up with a pairing I’d have gone for a tawny port, a brandy or a coffee liqueur (Kahlua rather than Tia Maria)

 

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