Pairings | Sashimi

Sashimi and Koshu

Sashimi and Koshu

This week’s match had to involve the extraordinary Kaiseki meal I had at Umu. I wrote it up extensively a few days ago so I won’t dwell on it again but rather focus on the pairing that I think would work best in a less rarified contest. And that’s sashimi and unoaked koshu.

Salmon sashimi and dry Languedoc rosé

Salmon sashimi and dry Languedoc rosé

Not, I admit, the sort of starter you expect to be served on your first night in France - or the wine you’d expect to go with it - but the pairing, at the Château du Port in Marseillan*, worked perfectly.

Chablis at Nobu

Sometimes you go to a wine dinner with some trepidation wondering if the wine will stand up to the food but I was pretty optimistic that Domaine Long-Depaquit’s Chablis would survive at Nobu (the original Metropolitan hotel restaurant in London, not LA, sadly!)

Matching food and Chablis

Matching food and Chablis

Despite the emphasis that winemakers place on the different crus or terroirs of Chablis three factors seem to me to influence a food match more than any other for most of the Chablis you’ll taste - the age of the wine, the vintage and the degree of oak influence, if any.

Tags: grand cru premier cru white burgundy burgundy Chardonnay Chablis drink:white wine jambon persillé andouillette charcuterie premier cru white burgundy burgundy Chardonnay Chablis drink:white wine andouillette jambon persillé food:pork charcuterie food:pork rabbit rabbit rabbit with mustard rabbit with mustard lapin à la moutarde lapin à la moutarde old Gouda old Gouda Vieux Comté Vieux Comté ceps Epoisses ceps Soumaintrain Soumaintrain Epoisses washed-rind cheese washed-rind cheese pheasant pheasant guinea fowl guinea fowl chicken chicken roast chicken roast chicken halibut halibut Dover sole Dover sole turbot turbot crab crab scallops scallops goats cheese Chaource Chaource sashimi goats cheese sashimi sushi sushi seafood risotto seafood risotto fish stew fish stew fish pie fish pie oeufs en meurette oeufs en meurette mayonnaise mayonnaise salmon salmon grilled fish grilled fish poached fish poached fish puréed vegetable soup puréed vegetable soup vegetable soup vegetable soup garlic butter garlic butter prawns prawns snails snails fried fish fried fish gougons gougons chips chips fish fish fish and chips fish and chips mussels mussels moules marinières clams moules marinières clams spaghetti alla vongole spaghetti alla vongole food:pasta, rice & noodles food:pasta, rice & noodles seafood seafood shellfish shellfish oysters oysters cheesy nibbles cheesy nibbles gougères gougères cheese cheese food:fish & shellfish food:fish & shellfish food:chicken & poultry food:chicken & poultry food:soups & starters food:soups & starters pork chops old Chablis mature Chablis mature wine ham with parsley ham food:soups & starters food:chicken & poultry food:fish & shellfish cheese gougères cheesy nibbles oysters shellfish seafood food:pasta, rice & noodles spaghetti alla vongole clams moules marinières mussels fish and chips fish chips gougons fried fish snails prawns garlic butter vegetable soup puréed vegetable soup poached fish grilled fish salmon mayonnaise oeufs en meurette fish pie fish stew seafood risotto sushi sashimi goats cheese Chaource scallops crab turbot Dover sole halibut roast chicken chicken guinea fowl pheasant washed-rind cheese Epoisses Soumaintrain ceps Vieux Comté old Gouda grand cru pork chops old Chablis mature Chablis mature wine ham with parsley ham food:soups & starters food:chicken & poultry food:fish & shellfish cheese gougères cheesy nibbles oysters shellfish seafood food:pasta, rice & noodles spaghetti alla vongole clams moules marinières mussels fish and chips fish chips gougons fried fish snails prawns garlic butter vegetable soup puréed vegetable soup poached fish grilled fish salmon mayonnaise oeufs en meurette fish pie fish stew seafood risotto sushi sashimi goats cheese Chaource scallops crab turbot Dover sole halibut roast chicken chicken guinea fowl pheasant washed-rind cheese Epoisses Soumaintrain ceps Vieux Comté old Gouda lapin à la moutarde rabbit with mustard rabbit food:pork charcuterie jambon persillé andouillette drink:white wine Chablis Chardonnay burgundy white burgundy premier cru grand cru pork chops old Chablis mature Chablis mature wine ham with parsley ham lapin à la moutarde rabbit with mustard rabbit food:pork charcuterie jambon persillé andouillette drink:white wine Chablis Chardonnay burgundy white burgundy premier cru grand cru pork chops old Chablis mature Chablis mature wine ham with parsley ham
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If anyone still needs convincing about the virtues of food and wine matching Mark Hix’s fresh seasonal recipes in The Independent today should convince them. Even the ‘drink what you like with the food you like’ brigade would have to admit that a voluptuous Meursault or oak-aged white Bordeaux would totally overwhelm the flavours of raw food.

Top pairings for dry and off-dry Alsace whites

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If I had to sum up the best food pairing for albarino in one word it would be seafood. Which makes sense considering where it comes from on the coast of Galicia in the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain.

Is Koshu the best match for Japanese food?

Is Koshu the best match for Japanese food?

I suspect you’ll be hearing a lot about Koshu this year. No, it’s not some unfamiliar aspect of Japanese cuisine but a white wine made from a grape of the same name. A campaign to promote it in the UK was launched at a lunch in London yesterday by a VIP line-up of Japanese goverment officials from the Yamanashi prefecture where most of the winemakers are based.

Soft shell crab tempura maki and ‘Misty Mountain’ sake

Soft shell crab tempura maki and ‘Misty Mountain’ sake

I don’t that often order sake in a restaurant but when I do I wonder why I don’t drink it more often.

Velvet Haiku, a delicious sake cocktail from Sake no Hana

Velvet Haiku, a delicious sake cocktail from Sake no Hana

This is, without a doubt, the most refreshing cocktail I've tasted so far this summer - an incredibly thirstquenching mix of sake, jasmine tea, cucumber and prosecco - perfect for this hot, steamy weather we've been having.

Wine of the week: Melonix 2014

Wine of the week: Melonix 2014

One of the best ways to make new wine discoveries is to experiment with wines by the glass. And that is how I found Melonix, a fabulous wine from biodynamic Loire producer Domaines Jo Landron at the newly opened Frenchie in Covent Garden yesterday.

Japanese gin - but oddly not from Japan

Japanese gin - but oddly not from Japan

Ask the man in the street where Japanese gin comes from and he’d look at you pityingly. "Japan, of course!" But actually this 42% ultra-premium gin comes from Cambridge, England.

Sushi and Genmaicha (Japanese green tea with roasted rice)

Sushi and Genmaicha (Japanese green tea with roasted rice)

To the incomprehension of my husband who can’t see the point in raw fish, I adore sushi and try to eat it at least once a week - usually with one of my daughters who are both big sushi fans.

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