Match of the week
Vitello tonnato and Etna Bianco
It’s not often you find a wine that sails through every dish you put in front of it but I’d say on the basis of Friday night’s Italian feast at Wild Artichokes in Kingsbridge that the Tenuta Tasca Buonora Etna Bianco 2017 would see you through almost any Italian meal.
The ‘feast’ - and it is indeed a feast - that Jane Baxter puts on during the Dartmouth Food festival is one of my favourite meals of the year - full of utterly delicious dishes you never come across in the average Italian restaurant. In addition to the vitello tonnato (veal with a tuna sauce) which was served with a cabbage and fennel salad, it also went brilliantly with a whole lot of other antipasti including trout in carpionne (a sweet-sour pickled dish) two kinds of sformato (flan), squid, a mussel and prawn black cavatelli, an incredibly moreish pasta dish of casarecci with sardines and with the main course of rabbit and artichokes too.
The wine which was wonderfully clean and linear - and only 12% - is made from carricante - you can find it for £19.47 a bottle from tannic.co.uk and £19,99 from allaboutwine.co.uk. Not cheap but fair enough, Etna is a touigh terrain to cultivate. And it really is delicious.
For other wine matches with vitello tonnato see The best wine pairings with vitello tonnato
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