Match of the week
Vincisgrassi and Saint-Aubin
I love a collaborative cooking project so when I stayed with my friend food writer Fiona Sims at the weekend we embarked on a vincisgrassi, an elaborate mushroom lasagne from Rachel Roddy’s fantastic book, an A-Z of Pasta. It was made famous by Franco Taruschio of the Walnut Tree but you can find Rachel’s version here. (Note the fabulous crisp edges!)
It’s an incredibly rich dish with parma ham, parmesan, porcini and cream which needs a wine with both texture and a fresh acidity to set it off.
We didn’t have anything suitable from Italy but I’d brought along a bottle of 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmes from Domaine Paul Pillot which proved absolutely perfect even though we could have easily waited another year or two to drink it. Obviously we could have substituted another white burgundy like a Puligny Montrachet or other cool climate chardonnay.
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