Match of the week
Parmesan custard and Soave
Parmesan or parmigiano reggiano is one of the most wine-friendly of cheeses but on its own normally pairs best with an Italian red. But in this fabled incarnation of an unctuously rich creamy custard by chef Rowley Leigh, white wine makes the better pairing
I discovered this at his pop-up Chez Rowley at Laylow in Golborne Road last week when I had it with the 2022 Pieropan Soave he had recommended which is also creamy but with a crisp refreshing edge that cuts through the richness of the dish and also goes brilliantly with the anchovy toasts you dunk in it. At around £16 (£15.81 in Lay & Wheeler) it’s not quite the bargain it was but it’s a really good wine
It would also be great with a top-notch white burgundy or other cool climate chardonnay or - if you're feeling extremely decadent - a blanc de blancs champagne.
Chez Rowley is taking bookings until Christmas and is a great chance to enjoy Rowley’s food if you’re a fan from his days at Kensington Place and Le Cafe Anglais.
I ate at the restaurant as a guest.
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