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Match of the week

Match of the week

Mackerel en escabeche with manzanilla sherry

Mackerel en escabeche with manzanilla sherry

No apologies for returning to one of my favourite drinks, manzanilla sherry, as it’s such a versatile food wine. This time I found a felicitous match with a dish of mackerel en escabeche which was served at one of my regular hangouts in Bristol, Quartier Vert.

Mackerel, as I’m sure you know, is an oily, rich-tasting fish which needs robust treatment in the kitchen and an accompanying drink with real bite and attack. The escabeche treatment (sousing the cooked - usually fried - fish and any accompanying vegetables in spiced vinegar then leaving it to marinate for several hours) suits it perfectly and also creates a useful, inexpensive starter that you can make well ahead. They have a similar preparation in the Caribbean where it is called escovitch.

Needless to say your manzanilla, like other fino sherries, should be served chilled from a freshly opened bottle. If you don’t drink it regularly, it’s best to buy it in halves.

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