Match of the week
Crab tartine and Sancerre
Last week was a week for revisiting the classics. Oysters and Chablis, Fino and fried almonds (and excellent jamon croquetas at Paco Tapas) and this absolutely textbook match at Bar Boulud in Knightsbridge which recently reopened after last year’s devastating fire in its host hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.
I suppose you would expect nothing less of a Frenchman working in America, let alone a perfectionist such as Daniel Boulud. The crab (which was Cornish) was piled generously on a slice of sourdough toast with just enough avocado to create a creamy base without overwhelming its delicate flavour and some fine slices of radish on top.
Sommelier Yuri Gualen picked a really lovely Sancerre Florès from Vincent Pinard (which you can buy for £19.95 in Field & Fawcett) to go with it which was utterly perfect - equally elegant and restrained - just supporting the dish, not overpowering it. Sometimes it’s good to know when to hold back.
I ate at Bar Boulud as a guest of the restaurant.
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