Planning a Burns Night dinner

Some years ago we had some good friends who were really into Burns Night. They were both actors and Steve (north London Jewish) did a brilliant ‘address to the haggis’ in a ripsnorting Scots accent which had tears rolling down our faces.

I was reminded of these bravura performances the other day when I went to a preview Burns dinner at the Boisdale restaurant in Bishopsgate in the City of London where we treated to the same eulogy delivered by a genuine Scot who also gave a full ear-splitting recital on his bagpipes.

Burns Night, of course, celebrates the birthday of Scotland’s famous poet Robert Burns on January 25th. It is outrageously kitsch, no doubt about that, but it’s a fun way to spend an evening with good friends. Boisdale had sensibly leavened the feast (which can be heavy) with more mainstream offerings such as very good organic smoked salmon from Islay, slow braised belly of pork and brioche bread and butter pudding with an orange and apricot sorbet. (You could also try Sue Lawrence’s delicious venison recipe from this month’s Book of the Month)

Different whiskies were served as an aperitif, with the haggis and with the last course (Macallan is sponsoring the event) with some fairly pedestrian Bordeaux - white and red - in between. The change of drink was welcome though claret wasn't the ideal match. Haggis is quite gamey and needs a powerful red with some good ripe fruit to counteract that. I’ve tried Rhone reds like Saint Joseph quite successfully but Australian shiraz strikes me as quite perfect. There is actually one called Bobbie Burns Shiraz which comes from the Rutherglen region of Victoria and which you should be able to track down through www.wine-searcher.com

A better solution is to have your wee dram beforehand and possibly with the smoked salmon and one at the end but to drink beer in between. There are plenty of good Scottish ales - you need one with a touch of sweetness. During a further run-through back home (memo to self: never eat haggis more than once in a week) I was very taken with the new limited edition Innis and Gunn IPA but the regular Innis and Gunn, which is aged in whisky barrels was a good match too. I also liked Schneider Aventinus from Germany and suspect a Maredsous 8 or 10 (from Belgium) would be a good pairing. You don’t want anything too bitter or too hoppy. It just doesn’t work with haggis and its traditional accompaniments neeps (swede) and tatties (mashed potato)

If you’re in London, Boisdale - which also has a branch near Victoria - is a good place to spend Burns night: if you’re tied up on the evening itself the menu is on all this week and next. The food isn’t extraordinary but the restaurants are charmingly eccentric, have bags of atmosphere and a great selection of whisky and cigars . . . (Get in quick before the smoking ban!)

If you want to organise your own Burns Night there’s a comprehensive guide on the BBC website complete with video clips!

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