Vidonia Suertes del Marques 2013, Valle de la Orotava Tenerife
Some of the most exciting wines in Europe right now are coming out of Spain as this glorious white from Suertes del Marques in Tenerife proves.
I came across it by the glass in Lyle’s in Shoreditch last week. It’s really fruity but in a delicate way, lush without being blowsy and just a lovely partner for food, particularly the plate of calçots, Burford Brown egg and buckwheat with which it was recommended.
Apparently it’s based on old vine Listan Blanco (better known as Palomino Fino according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes) grown on volcanic soils between 350 and 500 metres above sea level. The wine is aged for 10 months in 500 litre casks. Given the soil it’s not entirely surprising that it reminded me of Assyrtiko but has a white Bordeaux-style elegance this Greek wine lacks.
If you, like me, want to get your hands on some it’s imported by Indigo Wine but you can buy it over the counter for £22.70 a bottle from Theatre of Wine in Greenwich and Tufnell Park and for £21 online from Vintrepid (enter launch15 at checkout for 15% off.) Save some for me!
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