What to drink with squirrel

One of our subscribers sent me this link to a story in the Observer today that a Northumberland butcher is selling grey squirrel as fast as he can source them. This unappealing pest, which I seem to remember has also been featured on the menu of the iconic London restaurant St John, apparently tastes like wild boar or duck depending who you talk to.

The article includes a recipe for squirrel pasty.I’m tempted to recommend one of those ‘critter wines’ despite the fact that I was solemnly told the other day by a top British supermarket buyer that they’re not as popular as they once were.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah, maybe.If it genuinely does taste like boar, Fitou which is made in the heart of wild boar country down in the Languedoc might well be the answer. But given that it’s a pasty we’re talking about I think it’s got to be cider or beer. And sticking to our critter theme why not a Badger ale, brewed in Dorset by Hall and Woodhouse? Fursty Ferret sounds as if it would hit the spot. Or - perfect - Poacher's Choice.

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