Drinks of the Month

The Collector Vermouth

The Collector Vermouth

Not only a candidate for drink of the week but drink of the year, this small-batch Somerset vermouth is one of the most delicious products I’ve come across in 2014.

It was created by the award-winning Ethicurean, a restaurant in a stunning walled garden in Wrington, just outside Bristol. They started making it for their own cocktails but were pressed to bottle it for general sale.

It’s based on plants that are grown in the garden including bay, rosemary, sage, wormwood and yarrow along with foraged ingredients from the surrounding Mendip Hills such as rowan berries and scots pine. The team, headed by mixologist Jack Adair Bevan, uses them to make tinctures using an apple-based spirit distilled from organic cider apples, then blends them with a homemade caramel made from English sugar and white wine from Malvasia grapes from the Veneto.

The flavour is unusually warm and rich - less bitter than many vermouths - like a gloriously alcoholic marmalade. You can drink it on its own over ice with a fresh bayleaf as I did when I had a sneak preview of it at the Wells Food Festival back in October or use it in cocktails. (It apparently makes a great Negroni* though I haven't had a chance to have a play, a mean Manhattan and a pine Martinez with pine-infused gin though I'd probably leave that one to Jack.)

They also cook with it at the restaurant though that seems a bit of a waste. I can imagine it would make a great match with Stilton cheese or, more locally, Dorset Blue Vinney.

The Collector costs £31.45 from The Whisky Exchange, £34 from the restaurant and around £38 from independent Bristol wine merchants such as Corks of Cotham and North Street, Weber & Trings and Grape and Grind. (See here for other stockists and bars which serve it) A lovely Christmas present for someone who appreciates quality drinks.

*Using less Campari than usual according to their Facebook page - 25ml good gin, 40ml The Collector Vermouth and 10ml Campari

For other last minute gift suggestions see here.

Noilly Prat Ambré

Noilly Prat Ambré

There’s nothing like hearing a bottle is impossible to get hold of to make you want to buy it so the news (via Jared Brown of Mixellany) that Noilly Prat Ambré was no longer available in the UK made me instantly snap one up here in France when I spotted it on the shelf.

Noilly Prat, for those of you who are not familiar with it, is a famous vermouth which once boasted the slogan ‘Say Noilly Prat and your French will be perfect’ (It’s nwa e pra not noily prat - not that my French is up to much.)

It’s made in the small town of Marseillan on the Languedoc coast and - like madeira - is aged in barrels that sit outside in the scorching sun. The original is a pale but heavily aromatised vermouth that is a classic component of a martini* but the Ambré which also contains orange and vanilla is much richer and sweeter, more like a herb-infused Pineau de Charentes.

Jared tells me (via Facebook) his favourite way of drinking it is “on the rocks, sometimes with a twist. I have made martinis with it, using the original 1:1 ratio, with a lemon twist. I have even used a bit more vermouth than gin. This pairs well with oysters, especially if you happen to be sitting harbourside in Marseillan. It’s lovely in a Manhattan, but I’m really a traditionalist there: Martini Rosso is still my favourite in a Manhattan."

I haven’t explored a fraction of the possibilities but can vouch for the ‘on the rocks’ serving - I’m actually keeping it in the fridge. And the good news is that it does occasionally seem to be available in the UK: at The Whisky Exchange (for £16, though not at the time of writing) and I imagine Gerry's of Old Compton Street could get hold of some though they don't appear to have it on their website.

So if you’re anywhere near Marseillan or a wine shop in the Languedoc snag a bottle. Mine cost only 11.60€ (£10) so was quite a bit cheaper than you'll find it elsewhere.

If you spot Ambré anywhere else let me know!

* And also a good addition to many fish dishes.

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