Drinks of the Month

Wine of the week: Planeta Mamertino 2015

Wine of the week: Planeta Mamertino 2015

One of the most captivating wine books I’ve read is Nina Caplan’s The Wandering Vine which explores the footprint the Romans left on the wine growing areas of Europe. Part wine guide, part travelogue, part personal journey and exploration of her Jewish roots, Caplan traces the interest in wine she derived from her late father.

The result is a very individual and highly readable book and a refreshingly different take on the wine world.

It’s left me with a desire to try the wines that have that Roman connection and this is one made by the redoubtable Planeta family who Nina and I both visited in Sicily 18 months ago when she was researching the book.

The wine, which is a blend of nero d’avola and nocera, is named after the Mamertini who were producing it, according to this feature in wine-searcher.com in the 1st century BC. It was described by Pliny and admired by Julius Caesar though I wonder how similar it tasted to the current version which is wonderfully fresh and delicate (13%), almost rose-scented though with some firm tannins underlying it.

I’d drink it with simply grilled lamb with spring veg if you can get hold of some but it’s really delicious on its own.

Planeta says “The small winery is only a few steps from the sea and surrounded by the splendid vines we planted at Cape Milazzo [on the north-east coast of Sicily] The Lucifero Foundation which own the property devotes a portion of the proceeds for Gigliopoli, social, cultural and recreational activities for children in the Milazzo area.”

You can buy it for £19.95 at Great Western Wine or £122.77 for a case of six at The Fine Wine Co

Planeta Eruzione Bianco 1614

Planeta Eruzione Bianco 1614

One of the most interesting things that’s happening in wine at the moment is how big producers are pursuing new areas and old grape varieties and Planeta is no exception

It now has vineyards all over Sicily including the on-trend slopes of Mount Etna.

This deliciously crisp aromatic white however is not allowed to use the E-word (as at 870m the vines are grown higher than the 700m limit permitted by the DOC) but both the name and erupting volcano on the label clearly indicate its origin. It’s made mainly from the local (to Etna) carricante though there's also a 5% dash of riesling. The ABV is 13.5%

I drank it yesterday at Wright Bros Soho with Alaskan King crab but it would be good with any kind of raw or lightly cooked shellfish or with raw vegetable dishes. (Planeta, whose food pairing recommendations are unusually inspiring, also recommends fish soup, fish cooked in salt, marinated swordfish and pasta with cuttlefish and peas.)

You can find it online for £17.14 from a rather splendid-looking site called Made in Sicily which also sells all kinds of Sicilian food products though the minimum order is six bottles. Great Western Wine of Bath has the 2013 vintage for £18.50* and Chester Beer and Wine for £19.25. Planeta puts the ageing potential at 7-10 years though I think I'd prefer to drink it young and fresh.

Oh, and if you're wondering about the 1614 date on the label, it was the beginning of the longest continuous Etna eruption which lasted 10 years. Given the amount of investment in vineyards in the area let's hope there's not a repeat ...

* Less 5% if you buy 6 bottles or 10% if you buy a case.

I lunched at Wright Bros as a guest of Planeta.

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