Try your hand at matching The French Laundry's dazzling desserts

It might surprise you to learn that Napa’s famous French Laundry has an English pastry chef, Claire Clark who previously worked at Claridges and The Wolseley in London. I know Claire from way back when we did a number of food and wine pairing exercises together and thought it would be fun to get her and head sommelier Gregory Castells to come up with some pairings for her incredibly exciting and creative desserts.

Try your hand first then see what Gregory and Claire thought.

Claire’s desserts

1. "KIRSTEN ROSE"
Earl Grey Ice Cream, Rose Petal "Gele" and Pink Lady Apple Pure

2. FIELD RHUBARB SHERBET
Cardamom-Scented "Frangipan," Ginger "Tuile" and "Whipped" Orange Custard

3. MANILLA MANGO SORBET
Black Sesame Tuile, "Goma Nougatine," Papaya and Coconut Sauce

4. NOUGAT GLACE
Composition de chocolat italien:Amedei Gianduja chocolate, “crme patissiere”, Toscano Nut Brownie and “Nougat Glace”

5. GUANAJA CHOCOLATE "PARFAIT"
"Yuzu" Ice Cream and "Spculos"

6. "DLICE AU CHOCOLAT ET LA MENTHE"
with Manjari Chocolate "Parfait" and Mint Syrup

Gregory’s pairings:

1. “Kirsten Rose”
“The important part of this pairing is the sweetness and alcohol level of the chosen wine. As much as a Weinbach Vendange Tardive from Alsace or a Theo Minges Gewrztraminer Sptlese from the Pfalz in Germany appealed to us for their similar flavour profile, the wines had the tendency to overpower the delicate floral flavours of the dessert.

The Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia 2005 from La Spinetta appealed to us for its high tone, 5.5% alcohol and great mouthfeel. The wine lifted the Earl Grey flavours with its slight carbonation and enhanced the flowery components.

Refreshing and flavorful, the idea of a chilled “Yinzhen Bai Hao,” white tea from Fujian in China also crossed our minds.”

2. Field Rhubarb sherbet
“This dessert puts your senses to work: it’s spicy, zesty, sweet and sour, all in great harmony. At first, thoughts of muscats from Malaga in Spain or Patras in Greece came to mind as we were looking for a slight oxidative character yet with a great sweet/acid balance. The stunning Rivesaltes Ambr 1997 from Domaine Fontanel fitted perfectly. With classic notes of rancio, confit orange zest and a highly concentrated palate, picking up the cardamom and candied ginger, the wine is fresh and vibrant.

On a totally different note the Gunderloch Riesling Beerenauslese, "Nackenheimer Rothenberg" 1998, is a great pairing.

3. Manilla Mango Sorbet:
Gregory thought of pairing the Albalonga Beerenauslese Wittmann 2004 from Rheinhessen in Germany “one of the greatest sweet wines I’ve tasted in the past year”. With its phenomenal passionfruit and papaya notes however, it almost overwhelmed the dessert, the whole experience being just a shade too exotic.

Late Harvest Viognier does the job perfectly; both with the mango and the coconut milk: look for Christophe Pichon Condrieu Moelleux 1997 or the 2005 Calera Late Harvest Viognier from Mt Harlan.

4. Nougat Glac
“These flavors are some of my favorites to pair with dessert wines. Chocolate, pistachio, praline - the choices are vast so look for fortified wines with a long period of ageing. A rancio-style wine from the Roussillon in France or Madeira such as Barbeito 1962, will really become as one with the dessert, picking up on the same notes and flavor profile.

The Italian influences of this dessert could also direct you to the region of Soave with a great Recioto Abbocato from Pieropan or Anselmi, or the ultimate Antonio Ferrari Solaria Jonica from the 1959 vintage

We tasted this dessert after the rhubarb one and thought that the Rivesaltes 1997 actually works very well too.”

5. Guanaja Chocolate Parfait.
“The combination of the rich crunchy parfait and the vibrancy of the Yuzu Ice Cream created a perfect harmony between texture and temperature, yet this was not an easy dessert to pair with wine.

Who would have thought that a Furmint 1993 from the Russian River Valley in California would just blow us away? Limerick Lane winery produce a succulent 5 puttonyos level wine with notes of maple syrup, exotic spices and lemon confit with a long finish and great acidity, The sweet acidity of the yuzu lifts all the flavors and brings a another dimension to the wine and the chocolate.”

6. Delice au chocolat et la menthe
“Mint and chocolate is a great marriage - rich bold flavours enhanced by a fresh herbal note. The Manjari chocolate brings acidity, fruit and tannin to the dessert so a red dessert wine seemed the most appropriate choice.

Made from late harvested Carinena and Garnacha, in the region of Montsant in Catalunya, Spain, Bodegas Capcanes produce a delicious lightly fortified wine, displaying notes of mocha and dark cherries with just enough sweetness to embrace the rich chocolate and lift the freshness of the mint.

Black Noble from De Bortoli in New South Wales , Australia is another serious candidate for this pairing.

Claire Clark's first book 'Indulge' is published by Absolute Press this autumn

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