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Laurent Chaniac: the master of pairing wine and spice
I was hugely saddened this week to learn of the passing of sommelier Laurent Chaniac who worked for many years at one of London’s leading restaurants, The Cinnamon Club.
Unusually for a Frenchman - if I may say so - he embraced the idea of wine and spice with enthusiasm and always came up with imaginative and original pairings for chef Vivek Singh’s food.
They made a great team - both of them pioneers In their own right. Laurent for his wine pairing skills, Vivek for being one of the first chefs to put Indian fine dining on the map.
Vivek wrote a touching tribute to Laurent on his instagram account which he’s given me permission to reproduce below.
If you’d like to appreciate just how ahead of the game Laurent was read this piece on wine and spice which I wrote for Decanter some 18 years ago, I think.
So long my dearest friend Laurent. You have been such a good friend and companion on this journey of food and wine for the last 24 years that I feel lost without you.
It’s taken me some time to collect my thoughts and realise that you have indeed left us. Gone too soon but not without a fight, not without a challenge, not without making a significant change. You, my friend, have given so much pleasure to so many.
In my 30 plus years of cheffing, I have seen so many that love great food, many that love spice, many that love good taste and so many that claim to know and love win but hand on heart I know NO one else that loved spice and wine together as much as you did Laurent! You showed the world that wine with Indian food was not just a passing fad but a legitimate and serious endeavour.
Your ability to imagine flavours and combine them with notes in wine showed me (and many others) that with due care, it’s possible to pair any dish with a good wine. There is a wine for every dish and a dish for every wine if you care to look for it. You were a magician my friend. This was your gift
Your love for hospitality, for wine, for producers, for teams and everything around it has taught me and my team so much. I will miss our sessions, our wine pairing dinners and our discussions. I promise to keep the essence of your spirit for wine and excellence alive for as long as I am. At Cinnamon Collection https://www.thecinnamoncollection.com/ I promise we will continue your legacy of good taste, great wine and the best teams. You have been - and will always be - our OG Wine Guru.
I last saw Laurent at a tasting a couple of years ago when with his customary charm and kindness he pointed out the wines in the room that had impressed him most. Typical of the man
He will be much missed.
Top picture of Laurent Chaniac (L) and Vivek Singh (R)
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