Top pairings

10 top Austrian dry whites - a personal pick

Posted by Fiona Beckett (Google+) on March 4 2009 at 10:56

Continuing our series where guest wine writers pick their top wines from the major London wine tastings here are wine writer David Furer’s favourite whites from the recent Wines of Austria tasting, together with his suggested food pairings.

David writes: The following list is by no means exhaustive, only a tiny snapshot of the many terrific wines available in the UK which I tasted the annual February tasting of Wines from Austria in London

Brndlmayer Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben Niedersterreich 2005
32 Richards Walford 01780 460 451 www.r-w.co.uk
US: Michael Skurnik Wines www.skurnikwines.com
In the charming Kamptal wine village of Langenlois rests one of Austria’s best-distributed family wine labels. Willi Brndlmayer’s production is culled from a relatively large estate, 70ha owned and 12ha rented. The estate’s dedication to the use of old wood and avoidance of malolactic conversion reflects that of his close friend and colleague, Schloss Gobelsburg’s Michael Moosbruger. This earth-, honey- and fruit-layered riesling is a classic. Its minerally structure braces the understated fruit and finishes both long and complex. Suits the fresh salmon marinated in chive-infused oil with radish sprouts at Fred Loimer’s Loisium restaurant.

Birgit Eichinger Grner Veltliner Hasel Kamptal 2007
10 Armit Wines 020 7908 0600 www.armit.co.uk
US: Weygandt-Metzeler www.weygandtmetzler.com
I first took notice of Frau Eichinger’s clean and straight wines (stainless steel and added yeasts are the rule here) at last year’s Austrian tasting. While it was a noble 2006 riesling which then intrigued me it was a far more accessible gv from less-favored loess soils which delighted me last month. Concentrated dried yellow fruits with a powerful and long high-acid finish. She recommends this with sea bass sashimi drizzled with yuzu sauce such as she tried the previous evening at London’s Zuma restaurant.

Johann Donaubaum Riesling Bergterrassen Smaragd Wachau 2006
28 Novum Wines 020 7820 6720 www.novumwines.com
US: Monika Caha Selections www.mcselections.com
The Wachau’s current wunderkind fashions wines from his 5ha in the Spitzer side valley. He eschews botrytis, preferring his wines to be “a window into the soil.” His dry wines yield approximately 20hl/ha, a meagre measure by any standard other than that for noble sweet wines. Formerly only sold in the family pub along with all Donaubaum’s wines, his top riesling has an understated nose of green appple and dried peach. Filigreed, medium body, with a hint of warmth on the long and earthy finish. His suggested wine match is steamed freshwater fish with mildly-seasoned green vegetables, better to emphasize the mineral purity in the wine.

Jurtschitsch-Sonnhof Grner Veltliner Kferberg Niedersterreich 2007
24 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies 01780 755810 www.abswineagencies.co.uk
US: Wein-Bauer www.weinbauer.com
Once a most traditional Austrian estate, the Jurtschitsch family are now no strangers to innovation (their 22nd edition of the trademarked ‘GrVe’ wine is now available); the three working generations are now converting to full organic production. I’m rarely one for oak on my gvs but this is the exception proving the rule. The oaky blast on the nose carries through to the palate then is quickly ushered away by layers of spices and fresh yellow fruits. Would be delicious accompanying a summer lunch of oak-grilled chicken & veggies with a side of creamy curried cabbage salad.

To gain full access to this article and other premium content you need to purchase a bundle of credits which you can do as a one-off purchase or - and this is better value if you consult the site regularly - on an ongoing subscription basis. (1 credit = 1 article)

To buy credits you need to register an account, which which is easy to do here. Or just sign in to your account if you already have one.

If you’d like be able to check out all the food and wine pairings on the site you can buy a bundle of credits here to access my premium content.

And/or for regular updates on what and where I’ve been eating, drinking and travelling sign up for my weekly newsletter Eat This, Drink That, Live Well.