Which wine to match with Rowley Leigh's roast duck and peas

Sometimes I wonder when we get to drink our best wines, food has become so fiddly and complicated so it’s a welcome relief to see a recipe like Rowley Leigh’s in the FT this weekend for a simply roast duck with peas.

One shouldn’t be suprised. Rowley, who is also chef of the excellent Le Café Anglais, has always been an ambassador for simply prepared, seasonal British produce. He’s also a wine lover so wouldn’t dream of putting anything on the plate that would interfere with a serious bottle.

The accompanying peas in the recipe are braised French-style with lardons and lettuce which enhances their sweetness and also brings out a savoury note that flatters any accompanying wine. This is an ideal dish with which to pull out a great red burgundy. High quality new world Pinot Noir of which there are many these days would be equally pleasurable - for my taste, one with a few years bottle age.

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