Match of the week | Lobster burger and Kumeu River Chardonnay

Match of the week

Lobster burger and Kumeu River Chardonnay

I’m conscious there’s a marked French bias in the pairings on this site so I’m going to go not for the excellent Alsace riesling and choucroute combo I had last week - or the many amazing wine matches at the Szechuan dinner which I’ve written up here but a very flashy lobster ‘burger’ and chardonnay I had at the Soho restaurant Bob Bob Ricard

Lobster rolls are all the rage in London at the moment. My son’s restaurant Hawksmoor was, I believe, the first to kick off the trend, Burger and Lobster (which we couldn’t get into) have built a chain around them and now everyone’s doing them. Being absurdly extravagant they deserve a glass of something posh and aged chardonnay fits the bill perfectly.

BBR always has interesting - if not always cheap - wines by the glass (including Yquem) so I picked a 2007 Hunting Hill Chardonnay from the top New Zealand producer Kumeu River (at £12.50) which added a deliciously smoky note to the lobster tail. Hardly an everyday combination but a perfect one when you feel like splashing out. Vintage champagne would have been good too though more obvious - and considerably more expensive!

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