Match of the week
Foxlow's 10 hour beef shortrib and Pierre Gonon's Saint-Joseph
I can’t pretend to be wholly impartial about this wine match which comes from Foxlow, the latest restaurant from my son Will and his business partner Huw Gott (who also own Hawksmoor).
I got to see it for the first time last week and immediately pounced on the ribs. This is the beef rib which is cooked for 10 hours and wondrously sticky and smoky. (There’s also an eight hour bacon rib with maple and chilli which You Must Not Miss*)
I’d ordered a bottle of 2010 Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph from a section of the wine list which has been curated by the brilliant Sager + Wilde wine bar in Hackney. (Charlotte Sager-Wilde used to work for Hawksmoor). There’s going to be a guest page every month which will be fun.
Like many of the wines S + W promote it's traditionally made using natural composts and without any chemical treatments so the syrah has a slightly funky edge that suited the smoky ribs perfectly - and even took the accompanying kimchi in its stride. Try it with the smoked rillettes too ....
*I can also recommend the bacon salt fries and the bourbon caramel soft serve sundae. Oh, and the St John’s cocktail (gin, prune eau de vie, honey and lemon). Not that I’m biased or anything . . .
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