24 hours in Brighton

I had a great day in Brighton yesterday on an occasional gig I do for the Discover the Origin campaign talking about (and tasting) Burgundy, Douro wines, port, parma ham and parmesan. So not exactly a hard day at the office . . .

It also gave me an opportunity to update myself on the local restaurant scene which I have to say is a great deal better than last time I visited four or five years ago.

As usual I asked Twitter where to go - the best way to find out anything these days. (If you doubt the value of Twitter it’s worth it for the travel tips alone.) Unfortunately the most popular suggestion, 64 degrees, recently reviewed glowingly by Marina O’Loughlin was 'closed for maintenance’ so I had to activate plan B.

My first talk had actually been at English’s a splendid old seafood emporium that reminded me of Rules. Once I discovered that they had four different kinds of oysters I was done for. I ordered one of each. They arrived on their own stand with all the condiments you could want - lemon, shallot vinegar and two kinds of Tabasco. The Royal Bay Grouville rocks from Jersey and Loch Ryan no 2 natives were so good I had to have one more of each just to make sure. And a glass of Muscadet.

They were nice enough to treat me to the oysters though I didn’t know that in advance. I suppose I’d sung for my supper or rather lunch but still ... I guess it would have come to about £20 all in plus service. (You can have a rather cheaper set lunch for £14.95, sans oysters though.)

I’d also been told about Riddle & Finns which has two branches, one in Meeting House Lane and one on the beach. As it was a glorious day I went for the latter, managing to overshoot it by a good half a mile then eventually finding it under the arches across the road from the Brighton Centre.

It’s a long and ambitious menu for a beach restaurant and quite an upmarket one with mains about £16-19 and seafood platters from £30 a head. As I’d already stuffed myself with oysters* I stuck to a starter (some gorgeously fresh plump local scallops) which with a glass of Picpoul also came to £20. You could spend a lot more especially if you dipped into the lengthy champagne list but you can't beat the location.

The last tasting of the day was at Plateau, a natural wine bar and restaurant in Bartholemew Mews, I’d also been recommended. We didn’t mean to eat anything there but you know how things go. A glass of rather delicious peachy sémillon and the prospect of a main course of Southdown lamb with wild garlic risotto, asparagus and feta just seemed too good to resist. So I didn’t and obviously had to try another wine - this time a bright juicy blend of mourvèdre and grenache called Opi d’Aqui - in the interests of 'research'.

I’m also going to have to write it up on my natural wine blog because the owner Thierry gave me such a hard time for not updating it more regularly. Although he did insist on paying for my meal. You'll have to trust that - and the wine - didn't affect my judgement ...

The previous night I’d gone to The Foragers in Hove where the friend I was staying with lives. That’s really nice too - a typical neighbourhood gastropub. Fair prices - slightly cheaper than Brighton I’d say - and some really great cauliflower cheese beignets which I strongly urge you to choose if they have them on the menu. About £30 a head with wine.

Other places you might think of going to: The BBQ Shack at the World’s End pub (recommended by @DrSweetesmokeBBQ and reviewed by Jay Rayner), Lucky Beach, a burger joint which seems to host some amazing pop-ups and (from Melissa Cole) the Hand in Hand pub which has its own microbrewery. Obviously I need to go back.

Brighton and Hove also have their own Food and Drink Festival from the 16th-27th April which has all sorts of good events including a beer and food matching supper at the Ginger Pig pub in Hove I like the look of.

*though only comparatively. According to English's some customers eat over 3 dozen at a sitting!

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