Recipes

Smoked trout with griddled lemon, cucumber & sourdough croutons
A fresh, simple, clever recipe for two from one of the most charming of last year's cookery books, Rosie Birkett's A Lot on her Plate
Rosie writes: "This dish, Scandinavian in tone thanks to the pickles and smoked fish, takes ingredients that you may have lying around – lemon, cucumber and bread – and transforms them into something special, by charring them to add a smoky dimension and intensify their natural flavours. I get my smoked trout from Mike Scott, the chef at Hackney’s wonderful Raw Duck restaurant, who smokes it himself at home, but this would work with any good-quality smoked fish, be it trout, mackerel or hot-smoked salmon.
Serves 2
1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar
1 tablespoon cider vinegar (get the good unpasteurised stuff if you can)
2 radishes, finely sliced
sea salt
2 baby or Lebanese cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise and halved across the middle
1 lemon, cut in half
1 slice of sourdough bread
6 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for grilling
2 tablespoons roughly chopped dill
2 smoked trout fillets, skin removed
borage flowers, to garnish (optional)
4 teaspoons plain natural yoghurt, to serve
Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar in a small bowl and quick-pickle the radish slices in the mixture.
Heat a griddle pan over a high heat until it’s stinking hot. Scatter with a pinch of sea salt. Brush the cucumber pieces, cut sides of the lemon and sourdough bread with olive oil and griddle for about 8 minutes, until there are black grill marks on them, turning the bread and cucumber over once.
When the ingredients are grilled, remove from the heat and squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl with the olive oil. Whisk with a fork, add the dill and a pinch of salt, and whisk some more, until well combined. Cut the sourdough into croutons.
Drain the radishes from their pickle liquor and place on kitchen paper to absorb the excess vinegar. Divide the cucumber between two plates and flake over the smoked trout. Top with the radish slices and drizzle over the dill and lemon oil.
Scatter over the sourdough croutons and borage flowers, if using, and finish eachserving with a couple of teaspoons of natural yoghurt.

What to drink: I think you want something equally fresh-tasting with this. A crisp dry white like a Picpoul or an Albarino would be good or try a (genuinely) dry young riesling
From A Lot on her Plate by Rosie Birkett (Hardie Grant, £25.00) Photography: Helen Cathcart. For more recipes see Rosie's website.

Carrot pie with apple and goat cheese
This unusual recipe from Dutch cookery writer Yvette van Boven's lovely Home Made Summer is a great way to kick off National Vegetarian Week.
It's well worth getting the book for the other recipes too - including an imaginative range of drinks.
Carrot pie with apple and goat cheese
for 6 to 8 servings
8 carrots, peeled
1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 fresh, tart apple, peeled, cored, and sliced as thinly as possible
4 oz (100 g) soft goat cheese
½ cup (100 g) crème fraîche
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (150 ml) carrot juice
3 large eggs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Boil the carrots in salted water for 8 minutes, until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Halve them lengthwise and set them aside.
Grease a 9-inch (24-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom with a little butter.
On a well-floured counter, roll out the puff pastry into a nice round slab the size of the pie plate. Press the dough firmly into the plate and trim the edges neatly. With a fork, stab some holes in the bottom, then cover the dough and place the pie plate in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
Arrange the onion and apple over the bottom of the pastry in the pie plate and place the halved carrots on top in a spoke pattern. Crumble the goat cheese over the pie, somewhat in between the carrots.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, carrot juice, and eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the mixture over the carrots and sprinkle everything generously with pepper.
Bake the pie on the lower rack of the oven for about 35 minutes, until golden brown.
What to drink: Almost any crisp fresh white or rosé would work with this. I'd probably go for a smooth Italian white like a Soave, an unoaked Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc or a Provencal rosé. Verdelho would be nice too. Or cider . . . yes, cider would be lovely.

Regula Ysewijn's Bakewell pudding
A sample recipe from food writer and photographer Regula Ysewijn's Pride and Pudding which I really hope will make you want to buy this brilliant new book.
It's a labour of love that revives your faith in cookbooks - erudite, original, beautifully written, gorgeously shot and styled - something you'll definitely want to own and leaf through. If it doesn't win one of next year's food writing and/or photography prizes I'll be amazed.
Regula writes: "All of the 1830s recipes for Bakewell pudding are quite different in character, which makes it hard to define the ‘real’ Bakewell pudding. There are also very strong similarities with a Sweet-meat Pudding from Eliza Smith’s book The Compleat Housewife (1737).
Some Bakewell puddings have a layer of jam, others have a layer of candied peel and preserves as in the sweet-meat pudding. Some use bitter almonds, others do not. It leads me to believe that the Bakewell pudding wasn’t a pudding invented in an inn in Bakewell, as the popular myth likes people to believe; it was an existing pudding that was renamed thus to attract customers in the nineteenth century. And because it became famous in that locality, it disappeared in the rest of the country, making it a regional dish.
The version with just a layer of jam is the one that the Bakewell bakeries adopted as the true recipe. But if you would like to taste the earlier sweet-meat pudding version, here it is. I use powdered raw sugar, as early recipes often ask for loaf sugar, powdered, and it works better indeed. If you have a heatproof plate that will go into your oven, use that instead of a pie dish, as I believe this was the original vessel used to bake this pudding.
Makes 2 puddings in 23 cm (9 inch) shallow plates
25 g (1 oz) bitter apricot kernels (available online or in health food shops)
1 teaspoon rosewater
110 g (3¾ oz) clarified butter, melted
110 g (3¾ oz) raw sugar, powdered in a food processor
5 egg yolks
1 egg white
1 quantity puff pastry (see page 344)
2 tablespoons raspberry jam
50 g (1¾ oz) candied lemon peel, cut into strips
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
Blanch and skin the apricot kernels by pouring boiling water over them to make the skins come off. Rinse under cold water and dry them using a clean tea towel (dish towel) to rub off the last of the skins.
Using a mortar and pestle, pound up the blanched apricot kernels with the rosewater. This will prevent the apricot kernels from producing oil and also will add a heavenly scent. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in the clarified butter and the sugar, whisking until creamy. Add the eggs and whisk to combine. Don’t be alarmed if the filling seems runny to you, it is normal.
Line a pie dish or plate with the puff pastry rolled out as thin as you can manage and spread the raspberry jam over it, leaving a 2 cm (¾ inch) border that will become the rim. Neatly arrange strips of candied lemon peel over the jam, then gently pour in the filling mixture.

Bake in the bottom of the oven for 15 minutes, then move to the middle of the oven and bake for a further 15 minutes, or until the pastry is puffed and golden brown.
Serve on its own or with fresh raspberries and maybe a little whipped cream.
What to drink: I happen to know that Regula is a beer fan so am thinking that a Belgian or Belgian style raspberry beer would be a lovely match for her tart. You could also try a regular dessert wine - I'd go for a muscat - or maybe a glass of ratafia.
Extracted from Pride and Pudding by Regula Ysewijn (Murdoch Books, £20). Photography by Regula Ysewijn.

Navarin of lamb
I made this simple, classic French one-pot meal down in the Languedoc in April last year - proof that a stew hits the spot at what can still be a chilly time of year.
Ideally you need to plan it 24 hours ahead. It's better, like many stews, made the previous day but if you haven't factored that in at least allow time for the stew to cool and refrigerate so that you can spoon off the layer of fat that will rise to the surface. (Don't let that put you off - it's better made with slightly fatty meat.)
What veg you use for a navarin depends what’s in season but I’d suggest carrots are essential and turnips nice. Later in the spring you could add a few lightly cooked fresh peas and skinned broad beans at the end along with the parsley.
Serves 4
750g lamb shoulder cut into large chunks or a combination of shoulder and neck
3 tbsp seasoned plain flour
5 tbsp olive oil
20g butter
100ml dry white wine + an extra slosh
2 medium-sized onions, peeled and sliced (sweet onions like oignons de lezignan would be ideal)
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tsp crushed coriander seeds
2-3 medium-sized carrots, peeled and sliced
2-3 medium-sized turnips, scrubbed and cut into even-sized cubes
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 bayleaf
1 sprig of fresh thyme
A good handful of flat-leaf parsley
500ml chicken or vegetable stock
400g new potatoes, washed
Pat the pieces of meat dry and roll in the seasoned flour. Heat a frying pan and add 2 tbsp of the oil, then when the oil has heated, the butter. Fry the meat on all sides a few pieces at a time. Remove from the pan and set aside. Deglaze the pan with the wine and pour over the meat. Wipe the pan and return to the heat. Add the remaining oil, tip in the onions, stir and leave over a low heat until soft. Add the garlic and coriander seeds then the carrots and turnips, cover and continue to cook for another 7-8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the remaining flour, tomatoes, bayleaf, parsley stalks and stock and bring to the boil. Add the meat, bring back to a simmer then cover and leave on a low heat or in a low oven 110°C fan oven for 1 1/2 hours, checking occasionally. Remove from the oven cool and refrigate. Spoon off and discard the fat. Reheat gently Cook the potatoes in boiling water until almost done then add to the stew. Leave over a low heat for 10 minutes for the flavours to combine, adding an extra dash of white wine if you think it needs it. Chop the remainging parsley and fold through.
What to drink: this is a homely dish so I don't think you need anything particularly grand with it. Although used white wine to make the dish, and a rich smooth white would work with it, I'd marginally prefer a red. A basic burgundy or Beaujolais would pair well - something dry and medium-bodied rather than a big full-bodied belter. It's also a good foil for a mature Bordeaux or Rioja that needs drinking up - or even an old Faugères which is what we drank with it back in April last year.
The rather messy pic is mine. At least you know it's real.

Smoked salmon and radish salad
If you loathe the thought of diet food Fast Days and Feast Days by my mate Elly Curshen (aka Elly Pear) is just the book for you!
Based on the 5:2 diet it combines recipes for fast days and feast days of which this beautiful looking dish is only 91 kcal per portion. The thing I love about Elly's food is that even when she's working with minimal calories the food is colourful and delicious. As the posters all round London are saying 'healthy eating just got interesting'.
Elly writes: "A few delicate, peppery, crunchy garnishes on top of the best-quality smoked salmon you can afford, this dish is as pretty as a picture and every mouthful really packs a punch. It’s also one of the few fast-day recipes that I’d do in exactly the same way if I was serving it on a feast day."
Serves 1
60g smoked salmon
20g radish
3g spring onion, sliced on the diagonal
10g China rose radish sprouts
1/8 tsp poppy seeds
1 tsp lemon juice
freshly ground black pepper
1g fennel fronds
Lay the salmon out on a serving plate, creating a neat circle.
Slice the radish very thinly, using a very sharp knife or a mandoline.
Lay the radish slices evenly over the surface of the salmon. Sprinkle over the spring onion.
Scatter the sprouts and the poppy seeds over the top and sprinkle with the lemon juice.
Season well with black pepper and finish with the delicate fennel fronds.
What to drink: Sparkling water with a slice of lemon or cucumber (it's a fast day, isn't it?!)
Recipe extracted from Elly Pear's Fast Days and Feast Days published by Harper Collins and currently available in branches of Sainsbury's for £8.99. Photography © Myles New
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