Recipes

Sierra Nevada chicken
A bit of a blast from the past, this. It comes from An Appetite for Ale, the beer and food book I wrote with my son Will at the time he owned a pub, the Marquess Tavern back in 2007.
It's a Belgian-style chicken stew made with a classic American ale. Chicken casserole re-invented.
Sierra Nevada Chicken
Serves 4
3 tbsp sunflower or light olive oil
125g (4 1/2oz) smoked bacon lardons
500g (1lb 2oz) skinless, boneless chicken thighs cut into large chunks
1 medium onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 sticks of celery, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 tsp dried thyme
1 level tbsp plain flour
300ml (10 fl oz) fresh chicken stock or stock made from half an organic chicken stock cube
150ml (5 fl oz) Sierra Nevada pale ale + a little extra to finish the dish
300g new potatoes
125g (4 1/2oz chestnut mushrooms, rinsed and sliced
A handful of roughly chopped flatleaf parsley
Salt and pepper
Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a large frying pan and brown the lardons lightly (about 3-4 minutes). Remove to a casserole with a slotted spoon then lightly brown the chicken pieces. Transfer them to the casserole with the bacon, turn down the heat in the frying pan and add the chopped onion.
Cook until starting to soften (about 3-4 minutes) then add the sliced carrot and celery, stir and cook a couple of minutes more. Tip the vegetables into the casserole, stir, cover with a lid and leave to cook for 10 minutes over a very low heat for the flavours to amalgamate.
Remove the lid, add the crushed garlic and thyme, cook for a few seconds then stir in the flour and cook for a minute. Add the chicken stock and Sierra Nevada ale and bring up to boiling point. Turn the heat right down, re-cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.
Cut the new potatoes into even sized chunks, add them to the casserole, stir well and continue to cook until the potatoes are cooked (another 15-20 minutes), adding the sliced mushrooms about 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time.
Splash in a little extra Sierra Nevada ale (about 2 tbsp), season with salt and pepper and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley and serve the stew in large shallow soup bowls.
What to drink: Sierra Nevada obviously or a similar pale ale - Kernel's Table Beer would be pretty good or try a full flavoured lager like Schiehallion
Photograph © Vanessa Courtier

Sybil Kapoor's apple and blackberry meringue
A lovely seasonal dessert from Sybil Kapoor's National Trust - Simply Baking. "Soft-baked meringues make a gorgeous pudding in the early autumn, especially when topped with cider-poached fruit and apple brandy cream."
Serves 6
6 medium egg whites
250g/9oz caster sugar
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
1½ teaspoons cornflour
icing sugar, sifted, for dusting
Apple topping
150ml/5fl oz dry cider
85g/3oz unrefined caster sugar
4 strips finely pared lemon zest
4 dessert apples, such as Cox’s Orange Pippin or Braeburn
250g/9oz blackberries
Apple brandy cream
285ml/10fl oz double cream
4 tablespoons apple brandy or Calvados
1 Preheat the oven to fan 140°C/gas 2. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. In a large, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, then gradually whisk in the caster sugar until the mixture is thick and glossy. Using a flat metal spoon, fold in the vinegar and cornflour. Spread the mixture evenly over the baking parchment in a 20 x 30cm/8 x 12in rectangle. Bake for 20 minutes or until soft and marshmallow-like.
2 Leave to rest on the baking sheet for a few minutes. Liberally dust a sheet of baking parchment with icing sugar. Gently tip the meringue on to the sugar-dusted parchment, peel away the baking paper and leave to cool.
3 To make the apple topping, put the cider, sugar and lemon zest in a non-corrosive saucepan. Set the pan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved and simmer gently while you peel, core and dice or slice the apples. Add these to the cider syrup and simmer gently for 4 minutes or until just tender. Mix in the blackberries, return to a simmer, then remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fruit to a bowl. Simmer the syrup for a few minutes until it thickens slightly, remove the lemon zest and pour over the fruit. Leave until cold.
4 To make the apple brandy cream, put the cream and apple brandy in a large bowl and whisk until the cream forms soft peaks. Chill until needed.
5 To serve, cut the meringue into six squares and place one on each serving plate. Top with some of the apple brandy cream, then spoon on the fruit so that it spills over the meringue.
This recipe comes from National Trust Simply Baking by Sybil Kapoor (National Trust Books). Recipe photography by Karen Thomas.
What to drink: Given the boozy cream I'm not going to go for wine but cider brandy itself would be too strong. A dessert cider like Once Upon a Tree's lovely Blenheim Superb Dessert Cider would be the perfect match.

Frying pan Turkish flatbreads
Today marks the start of Organic September and what better way to kick it off than this great recipe from much-acclaimed vegetarian cookery writer Anna Jones, author of A Modern Way to Cook
Anna writes: "The part of east London I live in is full of Turkish cafes. They turn out charcoal-baked flatbreads and insanely good salads, and although meat is front and centre in Turkish food, there are some amazing vegetable dishes too. Here is a quick way to make my two favourites at home."
Anna's Frying Pan Turkish Flatbreads
Ingredients
To make the flatbreads
- 200g spelt flour, plus extra for dusting
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 200g Greek yoghurt, or 150ml warm water
To make the topping
- 2 red onions
- 3 red peppers
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon dried Turkish chilli flakes
- 1 green chilli
- a small bunch of fresh mint
To make the salad
- 1 red onion
- 1 lemon
- 5 ripe vine tomatoes
- a small bunch of fresh mint
- a small bunch of fresh parsley
- 1 tablespoon sumac
- 1 teaspoon harissa or Turkish chilli paste
- 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
- extra virgin olive oil
Getting started
Put all the flatbread ingredients into the bowl of your food processor and pulse until the mixture forms a ball. If you don't have a food processor, this can be done in a bowl using a fork to begin with, followed by your hands, but it will take longer.
Dust a clean work surface with flour and tip out the dough. Knead for a minute or so to bring it all together. This is a quick flatbread recipe, so you don't need to knead it for long. Put the dough into flour-dusted bowl and cover with a plate. Put to one side to rise a little for 10-15 minutes while you do some other jobs. Don't expect it to rise like normal dough, but it may puff up a tiny bit.
To make the topping, heat a frying pan on medium heat, then finely chop your onions and red peppers and put them into the pan with 1 tablespoon of oil. Cook on a medium heat for 10 minutes, until soft and sweet, then add the dried chilli. Chop the fresh green chilli and mint and add to the pan along with a final tablespoon of oil.
Next, make your salad. Finely slice the onion and put into a bowl with the juice of half a lemon and a good pinch of salt. Scrunch with your hands, then leave to pickle.
Chop the tomatoes roughly, then roughly chop the leaves of fresh herbs. Put them into a bowl with the spices and the pomegranate molasses and add the lemon-picked red onions. Season well with salt and pepper and add a little more lemon juice and a good drizzle of olive oil, balancing out the flavours until it tastes great.
Now back to the flatbreads. Put a large frying pan or griddle pan (about 22-24cm) on a medium heat.
Dust a clean work surface and rolling pin with flour, then divide dough into four equal-sized pieces. Using your hands, pat and flatten out the dough, then use the rolling pin to roll each piece into about 20cm round, roughly 2-3mm thick.
Once your pan is hot, cook each flatbread for 1-2minutes on each side, until nicely puffed up, turning with tongs.
Spread with the onion and chilli mixture while hot, and serve straightaway with spoonfuls of salad.
What to drink: As it's still warm and summery as I'm posting this I'd go for a crisp dry white or rosé. There are in fact some good ones from Turkey (though I haven't come across many that are organic) but anywhere round the Mediterranean - neighbouring Greece, Italy or Southern France would be fine too.
Follow all the Organic September action, find recipes and features at www.soilassociation.org/organicseptember and by following #OrganicSeptember on social media. You can find more of Anna's recipes on her website Anna Jones.

Moqueca baiana (Bahia-style fish stew)
If you're inspired to cook Brazilian with the Olympics kicking off this weekend try this classic fish stew from Thiago Castanho and Luciana Bianchi's Brazilian Food.
This stew is one of the most famous dishes of Brazil and, as its name implies, is traditional to Bahia state. It is prepared with coconut cream and dendê oil and served on a moquequeira (a clay dish made specially for serving moquecas). I usually make this with one of the most popular fish of our region, the filhote.
Serves 4
Spice paste
* 6 black peppercorns
* 1 tsp ground turmeric
* 10g root ginger
* 6 coriander seeds
* ½ pimenta malagueta or hot red chilli, deseeded
* 20g dried salt shrimps
Coconut cream
* 900ml coconut water
* 420g dried coconut meat
* 240g young (green) coconut meat
* 550g filhote or catfish steaks, or hake or halibut fillets
* juice of ½ lime
* salt
* 20ml dendê (palm) oil
* 30g onion, chopped, plus 30g onion, sliced
* 30g tomato, chopped, plus 30g tomato, sliced
* 5g garlic, crushed
* 3 pimentas-de-cheiro or other mild chillies
* 30g red pepper, sliced
* 20g green pepper, sliced
* 5g coriander leaves, roughly chopped
* 5g spring onions, finely chopped
1. First make the spice paste: process the black peppercorns, turmeric, ginger, coriander seeds, chilli and dried shrimp in a blender or food processor until a smooth paste forms. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.
2. To make a coconut cream, warm the coconut water in a saucepan. Put it in a blender with the dried coconut meat and process until the coconut pieces are very finely chopped. Strain through a fine sieve, then return it to the blender. Add the young (green) coconut meat, blend until smooth and creamy and set aside.
3. Season the fish with the lime juice and a little salt and set aside.
4. In a large clay pot, heat the dendé oil over a medium heat and sauté the chopped onion, chopped tomato, garlic, pimentas-de-cheiro and 1 tablespoon of the spice paste until the vegetables are softened.
5. Stir in 1.1 litres of the coconut cream, bring to a simmer, then add the fish and cook for 5 minutes.
6. Add the red and green peppers and the tomato and onion slices and cook for a further 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the coriander and spring onions before serving.
Tips from Thiago:
Dendê oil and dried salt shrimps are sold in Brazilian and African stores. Substitute a good-quality shop-bought coconut milk for the coconut cream recipe if you can’t find young (green) coconut meat to make it fresh.
What to drink: Although Brazilians themselves tend to drink caipirinhas or beer with food you might like the idea of serving a Brazilian wine. Marks & Spencer has put together the best selection of which I'd pick the Aracauria Riesling Pinot Grigio which is on offer at the time of writing at £42 a six bottle case (£7 a bottle). Otherwise I'd probably go for an Argentinian Torrontes. A fresh young Viognier could also work.
Extracted from Brazilian Food by Thiago Castanho & Luciana Bianchi, published by Mitchell Beazley at £30 www.octopusbooks.co.uk

Lemons filled with tuna cream
It may feel far from summery in the UK but one can always hope so get yourself into the mood with this lovely recipe from Eleonora Galasso's As the Romans Do.
Lemons filled with tuna cream
Limoni ripieni alla crema di tonno
Eleanora writes: In a favourable climate, lemon trees flower and bear fruit four times a year. Therefore this festive citrus dish can be found on our tables all year round. The creamy filling reminds me of the more famous Pesce Finto di Natale, but with the addition of mascarpone cheese. Italians like variations, after all, hardly ever sticking to a fixed plan. This luminous dish resonates with rural tradition, a nod to the little details that make life a marvellous journey. Bella la vita, eh?
Preparation time: 20 minutes plus chilling
Serves 4
4 large unwaxed lemons
180g (6oz) tinned tuna in olive oil, drained
2 teaspoons salted capers, rinsed
90g (3 1/4oz) mayonnaise
50g (1 3/4oz) mascarpone cheese
50g (1 3/4oz) pitted black olives
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
small handful of chives
small handful of dill fronds
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
pinch of salt
pinch of white pepper
pinch of chilli flakes
To garnish
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 tablespoon chopped dill fronds
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
Halve the lemons lengthways.
Squeeze 4 tablespoons of juice out of one lemon and set this aside, then scoop out the pulp from all the lemons using a teaspoon. Remove and discard the seeds and put the lemon pulp and reserved juice in a food processor together with the rest of the ingredients. Blend together well to form a thick, creamy paste.
Use a spoon or a piping bag to fill the empty lemon halves, then scatter over the chopped herbs and dried oregano to finish. The filled lemons can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days until needed.
What to drink:
Lemon is quite hard to match with wine. I would choose something crisp and fresh but without too much of a powerful citrus flavour of its own like a Frascati, Falanghina or Greco di Tufo. Assyrtiko from Santorini would also work
This recipe comes from As the Romans Do: La Dolce Vita in a Cookbook by Eleonora Galasso, £25 Mitchell Beazley. Photograph © David Loftus
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