Salmon in pastry with currants and ginger

This is one of my favourite recipes ever - made famous by the late, great George Perry-Smith and faithfully reproduced by one of his most talented protegés Stephen Markwick.

Aware that he thinking of stepping down back in 2009, I persuaded Stephen to share his best-loved recipes in two small books 'A Very Honest Cook' and 'A Well-Run Kitchen'. The first has unfortunately sold out but you can still buy the second which also contains Stephen's Scallops with Shellfish Risotto, Roast Chicken with Cream and Tarragon and Summer Pudding from the Culinaria website.

Stephen says: "The marrying of sweet ginger and currants with fish must go back to medieval times. George’s unique twist was to serve it with a light herby sauce, (sauce messine, below) which lifts what could be thought of as a slightly heavy dish to one that is so pleasurable to eat. We had customers who asked to be phoned up when we had it on the menu!

Although the recipe is incredibly simple the trick is to wrap the salmon in the thinnest of pastry and cook it in a sufficiently hot oven to keep the pastry crisp while keeping the salmon slightly pink in the middle.

The salmon should be wild or organic farmed if possible (Glenarm, Clare Island or Loch Duart I find the best of the farmed). I remember when we started at Bistro 21, late February always brought the first of the wild Wye salmon at a price you would laugh at now. It is best to use the middle or thick part of the fish - if you have a whole side of fish you can cut off the tail end and use it for another dish like fishcakes. It needs to be filleted, skinned and pin boned.

Serves 6

Ingredients

375g (13 oz) shortcrust pastry (Stephen's own recipe is on p. 61 of A Very Honest Cook)

110g (4 oz) butter, at room temperature

3-4 pieces stem ginger in syrup

2 tbsp currants

A thick piece of wild or top quality farmed salmon (at least 700g/1 1/2 lbs) filleted, skinned and pin-boned

1 egg, beaten

Salt and pepper

You will also need a thin baking tray with slightly raised sides so that any leaking butter doesn’t go all over your oven!

Method

First make your shortcrust pastry and rest it.

Cut up the butter and put into a bowl to soften. Chop the stem ginger finely and add to the butter with the currants and some salt and pepper and mix well. (I find the easiest way to do this is by hand so it is well mixed and soft enough to spread over the salmon but you can obviously use a wooden spoon.)

Cut the salmon fillet in half lengthways so you have two pieces. (There is even a natural line marked on the fish indicating where to cut!) Season one piece with salt and pepper and spread half the butter mix onto the side that was next to the bone. Now make a sandwich with the other piece by putting it top-to-tail so the salmon is an even thickness. Season the outer top half and spread the remaining half of the seasoned butter on it.

Now roll your pastry as thinly as you can into a rectangle. (I usually roll a piece slightly larger than I need, then cut it to size and discard the edges which are usually thicker.)

Place the salmon at one end of the rectangle leaving an edge of just over 1 cm (1/2 inch) for the seal. Brush all around the four edges with the beaten egg. Now lift the pastry over the salmon and press the edges firmly together to seal. A very slight overlap is OK because you can trim it. (The ends do not have to look pretty as they will be cut off too. Mind you, they do taste pretty good as the butter and salmon juices tend to leak into them!).

Your salmon parcel is now ready but needs time to rest in the fridge - at least an hour but preferably longer. It is best to put it on a double thickness of well buttered tinfoil. (A useful tip that works like magic to stop the salmon from sticking to the foil while it is cooking: When you bring it out of the fridge peel the salmon off the foil, then, with your hand just smooth the foil before replacing the salmon - it sounds a bit far-fetched but it does work!)

Place the salmon and foil on a thin baking tray. Brush the surface of the pastry with egg wash and cook in a preheated oven at 220°C/425°F/Gas 7 for 20 minutes (slightly longer if there is anything else in the oven though it’s best to cook the salmon on its own to keep the pastry crisp). You’ll need to turn the baking tray round half way through to cook the pastry evenly unless you have a fan oven. Rest the baked salmon for 5-10 minutes on top on the stove so that the residual heat will finish cooking it. If you cut it straight away without resting it the middle might still be too pink.

To serve: Carefully peel off the tinfoil and trim the excess pastry off the ends of your salmon parcel. Divide the salmon into six thick slices (a bread knife is good for this). Serve with sauce messine (below), new potatoes and a cucumber salad (thinly sliced, salted and pressed then rinsed and dressed with dill vinegar and oil).

If you'd like to know what kind of wine goes with salmon check out 10 Great Wine Pairings with Salmon

Sauce Messine

A really fresh and vibrant herb sauce.

Serves 6

Ingredients

25g (1 oz) parsley

25g (1 oz) chervil

20g (3/4 oz) tarragon

2 small shallots or 1 large shallot, chopped

1 egg yolk

300ml (1/2 pint) double cream

1 dsp Dijon mustard

Juice of half a lemon

Salt and pepper

Method

Wash the herbs and pick the leaves off the stalks then put them into a blender with the other ingredients and blend well. Check the seasoning then tip into a heatproof bowl. Stand the bowl in a pan of boiling water and heat the sauce gently to avoid curdling it. (This should take about 10 minutes.) Serve with salmon or other fish.

What to drink: The butteriness of the salmon and the slight sweetness of the currants and ginger means you want a want a wine of some weight. Personally I think it's a great excuse to crack open a good white burgundy or other top class chardonnay but Viognier would work well too. If you wanted to drink a red I'd go for a Pinot Noir, probably burgundy again.

Spinach & goat’s cheese croquetas

Of all the things I eat at Jose Pizarro's lovely tapas bar José, the croquetas are my favourite. Here's a recipe for the spinach ones from his brilliant book Basque.

"Croquetas, croquetas, croquetas. Many people tell me that they make a beeline to Spanish restaurants for the croquetas and the tortilla, and we are very proud of ours. This is one of the most popular flavours at the restaurant; they are so creamy and moreish. You can freeze them ahead of time, and then just defrost before frying."

Makes 32–34 croquetas

500g (1 lb 2 oz) baby leaf spinach

400ml (13 fl oz) full-fat (whole) milk

100ml (3½ fl oz) strong fresh vegetable stock

80g (3 oz) butter

125g (4 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour

80g (3 oz) goat’s cheese, crumbled

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 large free-range eggs, beaten

125g (4 oz) dry breadcrumbs

olive oil for deep-frying

Heat a large frying pan over a medium-high heat and add the spinach with a tiny splash of water. Cook for 3–4 minutes or until completely wilted, then run under cold water. Once cold, squeeze out all the water. Chop finely and set aside.

In a saucepan, heat the milk and the stock together. In another saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat, add the flour and cook for 2–3 minutes. When the mixture starts to turn brown, begin adding the milk and stock very slowly until you get a really silky-smooth mix. This will take approximately 10 minutes.

Add the cheese to the mixture slowly, then add the spinach and stir constantly until it is well combined. Season with salt, pepper and a grating of nutmeg.

Spread the mixture onto a shallow tray and press a sheet of cling film (plastic wrap) over the top. Cool then place in the fridge for a minimum of 2 hours.

Put some oil in the palm of your hand and roll the mixture into 30 g (1 oz) balls. If they are a little soft, pop them on a tray in the freezer to firm up for 30 minutes.

Place the beaten egg and the breadcrumbs into two separate bowls. Dip the croquetas first into the beaten egg and then into the breadcrumbs.

Heat the oil to 180°C (350°F) and fry the croquetas for around 2 minutes or until golden. Drain on paper towels, then eat straight away.

From BASQUE: Spanish Recipes from San Sebastián and beyond by José Pizarro (Hardie Grant, £25.00) Photography © Laura Edwards

What to drink:
In no particular order 1) cava 2) fino sherry 3) albarino, I'd suggest. Sauvignon Blanc would also work.

Buttermilk, Cheddar and Chive Bread

If you fancy baking something easy for the family this weekend try this delicious savoury bread from Claire Thomson's just-published National Trust Family Cookbook.

Claire writes: I enjoy the incremental hike of a bread dough made with yeast, but with alchemy on your side a loaf can easily get to the table in under an hour. The trio of bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and egg works wonders in this recipe. Mixed with the dry ingredients, they elevate the loaf as it bakes. Eat hot from the oven with salted butter or pack for a picnic or lunch.

Makes a 900g loaf

300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

1½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

1 tsp salt

80g Cheddar cheese, grated

Small bunch of chives, chopped

40g butter

225ml buttermilk

1 egg, beaten

1 tsp Dijon mustard

Preheat the oven to 200°C (190°C fan). Line a 900g loaf tin with greaseproof paper.

Put the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, salt, cheese and chives in a large mixing bowl.

Melt the butter and add it to a jug with the buttermilk, egg and mustard. Give the mix a good whisk.

Swiftly add the wet mix to the dry ingredients and combine with a fork. Do not over-mix the dough – it should be a cohesive, sticky mass in well under a minute. It shouldn’t need any shaping so just fit it snugly into the prepared tin.

Dust the top of the loaf with a little flour and bake for 40–45 minutes until a skewer inserted into the middle of the loaf comes out clean.

Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes before turning out. Serve warm or leave to cool completely on a wire rack.

From the National Trust Family Cookbook by Claire Thomson, published by National Trust Books. Photo © Jill Mead.

Sausages with rich Guinness gravy

If you don’t like Guinness don’t be put off making this recipe for St Patrick's Day from my book Sausage & Mash. It makes the most fantastic dark, rich, sticky onion gravy that doesn’t taste remotely of beer.

Serves 4

2 tbsp olive oil
20g butter
2 large Spanish onions (about 425-450g), peeled and finely sliced
1 dsp granulated or caster sugar
1 dsp plain flour
175ml fresh beef stock or stock made with 1/2 an organic beef stock cube
225ml original Guinness
8 plump traditional pork sausages or 2 Cumberland rings (about 700g in total)
2-3 tsp malt or wine vinegar
Seasalt

Heat one tablespoon of the oil in a large frying pan, add the butter then when it has melted tip in the onions. Stir them so they’re coated with the butter mixture then cook slowly over a low heat for about 25-30 minutes until soft and golden. Sprinkle in the sugar, mix in well then turn the heat up and stir continuously for about 5 minutes until the onions are brown and caramelised. Stir the flour into the onions and cook for a minute then add the stock and the Guinness. Bubble up for a minute or two then turn right down and leave to simmer.

Grill or fry the sausages using the remaining oil until browned on all sides. Check the seasoning on the onion gravy adding salt and vinegar to taste. Transfer the sausages to the gravy, spooning it over them thoroughly then continue to cook on a low heat for about 15-20 minutes until the sausages are cooked, adding a little water if the gravy gets too thick. Serve with colcannon (below).

What to drink: Guinness or another Irish stout would be the obvious pairing but a hearty British ale would work too. Or you could drink a hearty red like a Malbec - see this list of wines to pair with Irish food.

Colcannon
Serves 4
900g King Edwards or other good boiling potatoes, peeled and cubed
250g sliced spring or Savoy cabbage
50g butter at room temperature
75ml warm milk
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the potatoes in a saucepan of cold water and bring to the boil. Skim off any froth, season with salt then cook for 20-25 minutes until done. Drain the potatoes thoroughly then return to the pan.

Meanwhile toss the greens for 2-3 minutes in a little boiling, salted water until just cooked. Drain, return to the pan and season with salt, pepper and 10g of the butter.

Mash the potatoes thoroughly till smooth then beat in the remaining butter and milk. Season with salt and pepper then mix in the buttered greens.

Sausage and Mash is published by Absolute Press. Photo © Georgia Glynn-Smith

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