Recipes

Ottolenghi's slow-cooked chicken with a crisp corn crust
If you're an Ottolenghi fan you'll love this easy, incredibly tasty chicken bake from his new book Simple, which is ideal for entertaining as you can make the base well ahead.
"The slow-cooked chicken is packed full of flavour and the crust - gluten-free, rich and corny - makes for a welcome (and lighter) change to a heavier mash.
You can make the chicken well in advance if you want to get ahead: it keeps in the fridge for up to 3 days or can be frozen for 1 month. You want it to go into the oven defrosted, though, so it will need thawing out of the freezer.
The batter needs to be made fresh and spooned on top of the chicken just before the dish gets baked, but it then can just go back in the oven. It can also be baked a few hours in advance – just warm through for 10 minutes, covered in foil, before serving.
I love the combination of the chicken and the corn, but the chicken also works well as it is, served on top of rice, in a wrap or with a buttery jacket potato."
Serves six
3 tbsp olive oil
3 red onions, thinly sliced (500g)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 tbsp rose harissa (or 50% more or less, depending on variety) (60g)
2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
850g chicken thighs, skinless and boneless (about 9–10 thighs)
200ml passata
5 large tomatoes, quartered (400g)
200g jarred roasted red peppers, drained and cut into 2cm thick rounds
15g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
20g coriander, roughly chopped
salt and black pepper
SWEETCORN BATTER
70g unsalted butter, melted
500g corn kernels, fresh or frozen and defrosted (shaved corn kernels from 4 large corn cobs, if starting from fresh)
3 tbsp whole milk
3 eggs, yolks and whites separated
1. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan, for which you have a lid, on a medium high heat. Add the onions and fry for 8–9 minutes, stirring a few times, until caramelised and soft. Reduce the heat to medium and add the garlic, harissa, paprika, chicken, 1 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, then add the passata and tomatoes. Pour over 350ml of water, bring to the boil, then simmer on a medium heat, covered, for 30 minutes, stirring every once in a while.
2. Add the peppers and chocolate and continue to simmer for another 35–40 minutes, with the pan now uncovered, stirring frequently, until the sauce is getting thick and the chicken is falling apart. Remove from the heat and stir in the coriander. If you are serving the chicken as it is (as a stew without the batter), it’s ready to serve (or freeze, once it’s come to room temperature) at this stage. If you are making the corn topping, spoon the chicken into a ceramic baking dish – one with high sides that measures about 20 x 30cm – and set aside.
3. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan. Pour the butter into a blender with the corn, milk, egg yolks and ¾ teaspoon salt. Blitz for a few seconds, to form a rough paste, then spoon into a large bowl. Place the egg whites in a separate clean bowl and whisk to form firm peaks. Fold these gently into the runny corn mixture until just combined, then pour the mix evenly over the chicken.
4. Bake for 35 minutes, until the top is golden-brown: keep an eye on it after 25 minutes to make sure the top is not taking on too much colour: you might need to cover it with tin foil for the final 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10 minutes before serving with a crisp green salad.
What to drink: Normally the combination of chicken and corn would automatically lead me to chardonnay but this is more of a mole-type sauce which suggests a robust southern French red like a grenache or GSM (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) blend.
Extracted from Ottolenghi Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi with Tara Wigley and Esme Howarth, published by Ebury Press at £25. Picture © Jonathan Lovekin.

Root Vegetable Stew with Herb and Mustard Dumplings
If you've been experimenting with vegan food this January or 'veganuary' as it's been dubbed you'll know that vegan food doesn't have to be insubstantial or, indeed uninteresting. For those of you who remain to be convinced here's a hearty stew from Rachel Demuth of Demuth's Cookery School in Bath which contains both cider and sherry!
Rachel writes: Stews and slow-cooking dishes are perfect for cold winter days. Winter food needs to be piping hot, comforting, filling, sustaining and hearty.
The choice of vegetables can be altered to what you have in the kitchen. If you like swede or turnips, add some. Dumplings are the ultimate in comfort food!
Root Vegetable Stew with Herb and Mustard Dumplings
Serves: 4
Dietary: Vegan
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 50 minutes
Ingredients:
- 6 shallots, peeled and quartered
- 4 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 leek, sliced
- 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
- 1 parsnip, peeled and chopped
- 2 potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
- 440ml dry cider
- 1 tbsp sherry
- 2 bay leaves
- a few sage leaves
- 500ml vegetable stock
- 1 tsp Marmite
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- handful of fresh parsley, chopped
Dumplings
- 110g self-raising white flour
- 1 tsp mustard powder
- 50g vegetable suet or margarine
- 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- ½ tbsp chopped fresh sage
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- cold water to mix
Method:
- In a large casserole dish fry the shallots in the rapeseed oil until they are golden.
- Add the garlic and the leeks. Fry for a couple more minutes, and then add the carrots, parsnip and potatoes and stir-fry.
- Add the cider and sherry and bring to the boil.
- Mix the Marmite into the vegetable stock and add to the stew along with the bay leaves and sage leaves.
- Season to taste and simmer gently for about 25 minutes or until all the vegetables are nearly cooked, before you add the dumplings.
- While the stew is simmering, make the dumplings. They need to be added 15 minutes before the stew is ready.
- Sieve the flour with the mustard powder into a large bowl then add the vegetable suet or margarine, salt and freshly ground black pepper and fresh herbs. Just before adding to the stew, mix in enough water, a little at a time, to make a firm but not sticky dough. With floured hands, break the dough into about 12 small pieces and roll them into round dumplings.
- Before adding the dumplings, check the stew for seasoning and add the chopped parsley. At this stage you may need to add some more liquid so that there is sufficient for the dumplings to cook through. Add the dumplings to the stew, push them down into the liquid and simmer gently for 15 minutes or until the dumplings have doubled in size.
- Serve in large deep bowls in front of the fire.
What to drink: Since you're using cider to make this delicious stew I'd definitely drink cider with it.
You may also find this post on pairing wine with vegan food useful.

Roast Pumpkin with Savoury Sage & Pumpkin Seed Granola
Those of you who are sceptical about vegan food should try this delicious recipe from Mildreds Vegan Cookbook by Daniel Acevedo and Sarah Wasserman. Yes, it's vegan but omnivores would enjoy it too and the pumpkin seed granola is wonderfully versatile.
Daniel and Sarah write: Since cooking with pumpkin and squash looms large in the USA’s national cuisine, Americans are well acquainted with the strange hinterland in which the pumpkin and squash reside, somewhere between sweet and savoury. Europeans, meanwhile, used to baulk at pumpkin pie one minute and pumpkin risotto the next, but we are adjusting. Although we draw the line at serving squash or sweet potato with marshmallows, we think you’ll enjoy the combination of sweet and savoury in this winter side dish, perfect for serving with a vegan roast or for a holiday meal. Alternatively, this could easily be bumped up into a salad dish in its own right by adding some peppery leaves. Use gluten-free oats for a gluten-free option.
Serves 6–8, depending on the size of the pumpkin/squash
FOR THE GRANOLA
50g (1¾oz) jumbo oats
25g (1oz) pumpkin seeds
½ tablespoon sea salt flakes
4 sage leaves, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon roughly chopped thyme leaves
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 teaspoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon Smoked Chilli Jam (see below) or 1 tablespoon redcurrant jelly and a large pinch of smoked paprika and chilli flakes
FOR THE PUMPKIN
I small pumpkin or butternut squash, de-seeded and cut into wedges 2cm (¾ inch) wide
50ml (2fl oz) light olive oil
½ teaspoon sea salt flakes
6 sage leaves
1 To make the granola, preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F),Gas Mark 3½. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment.
2 Mix the oats, pumpkin seeds, sea salt and herbs together in a bowl. Measure out the oil, maple syrup and chilli jam into a jug and whisk with a fork to combine. Add to the oat mixture and mix together well.
3 Turn the granola mixture out on to the lined baking sheet and bake for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
4 To roast the pumpkin, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F),Gas Mark 6. Line a roasting tray with baking parchment.
5 Toss the pumpkin or squash wedges with the oil, sea salt and sage in a bowl. Turn out on to the lined roasting tray and roast for 45 minutes–1 hour until cooked through but still holding their shape.
6 Crumble the granola over the warm pumpkin or squash and serve.
Smoked chilli jam
We use this sweet smoky condiment both as an ingredient and as a dressing. It adds a real depth of flavour to our Savoury Sage and Pumpkin Seed Granola and glazes, and can be thinned with a little water or orange juice and used to marinate tofu or tempeh before cooking. It pairs wonderfully with any chargrilled vegetables but especially peppers and leeks). If you cook up a big batch and jar it up nicely, it makes a great gift too.
GF
MAKES 10–15 SERVINGS
1 red pepper
light oil (such as sunflower,groundnut or light olive oil)
1 chipotle chilli in adobo sauce
500ml (18fl oz) water
350g (12oz) demerara sugar
grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
2½ tablespoons agar agar flakes
½ teaspoon chilli flakes
¼ teaspoon liquid smoke (see below)
½ teaspoon salt
1 Start by roasting or charring your red pepper, either in a hot oven, on the hob over a gas flame or on the barbecue.
2 If using the oven method, preheat to 240°C (475°F), Gas Mark 9. Rub the red pepper lightly with oil, sit on a baking tray and roast for about 15–20 minutes, turning frequently, until the skin is blistered on all sides.
3 Alternatively, place the pepper directly on a gas burner of the hob turned to high, turning frequently with tongs, until the skin blisters, or do the same over a hot barbecue.
4 Transfer the red pepper to a bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave to cool, then peel off the skin and remove the stem, core and seeds.
5 Blend the red pepper and chipotle chilli with the measured water in small blender, or in a measuring jug with a stick blender, to a purée. Add the purée to a saucepan with all the remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer, giving the mixture a whisk with a balloon whisk every so often to make sure the agar agar dissolves into the liquid.
6 Simmer the jam for 15–20 minutes, then remove from the heat and leave to cool. It should thicken up while cooling until it resembles a firm jelly. Once cool, spoon into clean airtight jars or bottles and store in the refrigerator for 2–3 weeks.
*Liquid Smoke Is simply water that has been filtered through wood charcoal. Try the Living Nutritionals brand (not the kind with additives), which is available from some supermarkets and online.
What to drink: A rich chardonnay or oak-aged chenin blanc would work well with this.
Extracted from Mildreds Vegan Cookbook by Daniel Acevedo and Sarah Wasserman, published by Mitchell Beazley at £25. Photograph © Matt Russell. Mildreds has 4 vegetarian and vegan restaurants in London. For locations see their website

Cauliflower curry, boiled eggs & coconut crumble
Cauliflower and eggs are two of my favourite things, here ingeniously combined by Dan Doherty of the Duck & Waffle in his brilliant book Toast, Hash, Roast, Mash.
Dan writes: "I fell in love with vegetable curries while spending time in India and Bangladesh – cauliflower curry being one of my favourites. The coconut works really well, adding flavour and a rich creaminess, with a crunch in the topping."
Serves 4–6
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
olive oil
1 cauliflower, broken into florets
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon onion seeds
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 onion, finely chopped
2.5cm (1 inch) piece of ginger, grated
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 red chilli, finely chopped
150g (5 ½ oz) cooked yellow lentils
2 x 400ml (14fl oz) cans of coconut milk
sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons desiccated coconut
8 eggs, hard-boiled and shelled
a large sprig of coriander
Heat some olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and brown the cauliflower florets on all sides.
Meanwhile put the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, ground turmeric, onion seeds and curry powder in a dry frying pan over a medium heat and toast for a few minutes, shaking the pan, until you can smell the aromas and the spices look toasted.
Add the onion to the cauliflower pan and cook over a medium heat without letting it colour for 5–6 minutes, or until soft . Add the ginger, garlic and red chilli and cook for a further 3 minutes, again without letting them colour. Stir in the toasted spices and cook for 3 minutes, then add the cooked lentils and pour over the coconut milk. Season with salt and pepper, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a dry pan, toast the desiccated coconut over a medium heat, shaking the pan, until golden brown.
After the final 10 minutes cooking time, the cauliflower should be cooked but retain a little bite. Add the eggs and cook for 3–5 minutes more. Roughly chop the coriander, stalks included, and stir through.
Transfer to a serving dish and scatter the toasted coconut all over, like a crumble, then serve.
What to drink:
Assuming you manage to resist the temptation of having this for breakfast (I would be sorely tempted, personally) a glass of dry white wine such as a chenin blanc, (not too oaky) chardonnay or viognier would be delicious with it. And if you're having it for brunch, why not a glass of champagne or cava?
See also The Best Wine Pairings for Cauliflower
Extracted from Toast Hash Roast Mash by Dan Doherty, published by Mitchell Beazley, £20 www.octopusbooks.co.uk. Photograph ©Anders Schonnemann

Spinach & agushi curry
I recently chaired a panel on women in food at the Abergavenny Food Festival which included the wonderful Zoe Adjonyoh. I hadn't seen her book Zoe's Ghana Kitchen before but discovered it was full of the most delicious recipes, many of them vegan.
There's also a really brilliant section at the beginning of the book showing and explaining the more unfamiliar ingredients she uses.
Here's one of the recipes that particularly appealed to me.
Spinach & Agushi curry
Serves 4-6
Here’s my twist on traditional Kontomire or nkontomire stew – a delicious vegan spinach curry, to which you can add extra steamed veg of your choice to make it into a more substantial meal.
1 tablespoon coconut oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon chilli powder
350ml (12fl oz) uncooked Chalé sauce (see below)
100g (3½oz) or about 2 heaped tablespoons agushi (dried ground melon seeds, available in West African and Caribbean shops and also online )
8 guinea peppers, crushed (also known as grains of paradise - optional)
juice of 1 lime
150–300ml (5–10fl oz) water or good-quality vegetable stock, if required
200g (7oz) baby leaf spinach
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
Grilled plantain (optiona)
4–6 ripe plantains
1 tablespoon ground ginger
½ tablespoon dried chilli flakes
sea salt
coconut oil (melted) and olive oil, for drizzling
Heat a large, heavy-based saucepan and add the coconut oil. When it has melted, add the onion and sauté over a medium heat for a few minutes until softened, then add the curry and chilli powders and stir well. Stir in the chalé sauce and simmer over a low heat for 20 minutes.
Gently stir in the agushi, using the back of a wooden spoon to break down any lumps that may form – the sauce should start to turn creamy and resemble scrambled eggs. Add the guinea peppers, if using, and the lime juice. Leave to simmer over a medium heat for a further 10 minutes. If the sauce becomes too thick, add the water or vegetable stock a little at a time to loosen it. The colour of the stew will have changed from pink to a mustard colour.
Stir in the spinach and sea salt and black pepper, then simmer gently until the spinach has wilted.
Meanwhile, prepare the grilled plantain, if making. Preheat the grill to medium-high. Using a sharp knife, peel the plantains by cutting the tips off each end and slicing through the skin lengthways (avoid cutting into the flesh), then use your hands to remove the skin. Cut the plantains in half lengthways. Rub with the ground ginger, chilli flakes and sea salt, and drizzle with coconut or olive oil. Grill for 12–15 minutes, turning over halfway through. Serve alongside the spinach curry.
Chalé Sauce
This basic recipe is based on my dad’s everyday cooking sauce. He would whip this up and then literally throw in any type of meat, fish or protein, but it was always tasty.
You can just blend the ingredients and store the uncooked sauce for later use, or cook it and then leave to cool – either way it saves time when making many of the recipes in this book. I make a big batch of this at least once a week – you can easily double the quantity if you want to make a bigger batch, although it’s not necessary to increase the Scotch Bonnet unless you like it extra-extra-hot!
400g (14oz) can tomatoes or 250g (9oz) fresh tomatoes
30g (1oz) or 2 tablespoons tomato purée
1 onion, roughly chopped
5cm (2-inch) piece fresh root ginger, grated (unpeeled if organic)
1 red Scotch Bonnet chilli, deseeded
1 tablespoon dried chilli flakes
1 teaspoon sea salt
3 garlic cloves (optional)
To cook
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
1 onion, finely diced
1 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon extra-hot chilli powder
Makes 500ml (18fl oz)
Place all the ingredients except the ‘to cook’ ones in a blender and blend together until you have a fairly smooth paste. This is your uncooked chalé sauce.
For cooked chalé sauce, heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan, add the onion and sauté over a medium heat for a few minutes until softened. Then add the curry powder and chilli powder and stir thoroughly to coat the onion evenly. Add the blended tomato mixture and simmer gently for 35–40 minutes.
Use straight away, or leave to cool then store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days, or freeze for future use.

What to drink: Zoe has a number of delicious-sounding drink recipes in the book - I'm liking the sound of Sobolo or sorrel juice with this dish. Otherwise you could go for something like a dandelion and burdock or even a lager but I don't think it's a wine kind of dish.
Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen by Zoe Adjonyoh, is published by Mitchell Beazley £25 www.octopusbooks.co.uk
Image credit: Nassima Rothacker
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