Recipes
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Cauliflower, potato and caraway homity pie
A wonderfully comforting recipe from Mark Diacono’s lovely book Vegetables.
Mark writes: “Even in the small towns of south-west England in the late 1980s, the occasional health-food shop and wholefood cafe could be found, an island of nutrition in a sea of Spacedust and limeade. Their menus invariably featured at least one thing from the genuinely game-changing Cranks Recipe Book. Very often that was homity pie, a carb-heavy coming-together of potatoes, cream, cheese and pastry.
Even writing those words makes me simultaneously ravenous and keen to listen to ‘Sign of the Times’. Here is a gorgeous variation on its theme.”
Unlike. Mark Diacono I’m old enough to remember Cranks and the original homity pie and have always fancied making it. Here’s my - and your - chance!
Serves 4
For the pastry
250g (9oz) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
pinch of salt
1 tsp caraway seeds, lightly cracked in a mortar and pestle
150g (5oz) butter
1 egg, beaten, plus extra for brushing
For the filling
500g (1lb 2oz) new potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced (about 1cm/1⁄2in thick)
30g (1oz) butter or extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1⁄2 smallish cauliflower, thinly sliced
150g (5oz) Cheddar, coarsely grated or crumbled small
1⁄4 freshly grated whole nutmeg
small bunch of chives, thinly sliced
250ml (9fl oz) double (heavy) cream
flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the flour, salt, caraway seeds and butter into a food processor and blend until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg and pulse until the mixture just comes together. (Alternatively, using your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour and salt until it resembles breadcrumbs, then add the egg and mix to form a dough.) Bring the dough together with your hands and shape into a round. Wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes while you make the filling.
Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well and allow to dry.
Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat and fry the onion for about 8–10 minutes until soft. Stir in the cauliflower, cover and cook for 5–10 minutes, stirring often until the cauliflower begins to soften. Add the potatoes and half the cheese.
Season the mix with the nutmeg, chives and some salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/350°F.
Lightly flour the work surface, then roll out the pastry to fit a tart tin about 20cm (8in) in diameter. The pastry should be around 4mm (1⁄4in) thick. Leave the edges of the pastry bigger than the tin, as it will shrink a little during cooking. Prick the base of the pastry with a fork and line with baking parchment. Fill with baking beans (pie weights) and blind bake for 20 minutes.
Remove the parchment and beans from the case, brush the pastry with a little beaten egg and return to the oven for 10 minutes until the pastry is golden. Trim the edges of the pastry with a sharp knife, then turn the oven down to 170°C/150°C fan/340°F.
Spoon the filling mixture evenly into the tart case and pour over the cream. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and bake in the hot oven for 35–40 minutes until the pastry is crisp and the filling is set and lightly golden. Leave to cool in the tin for 5 minutes or so before cutting into wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature.
What to drink: I’m immediately thinking of a dry or medium dry craft cider rather than wine with this - but you could equally well drink a full flavoured smooth white like a chenin blanc, white Côte du Rhône or a good Soave.
VEGAN: Use shop-bought pastry (most brands are vegan) and sprinkle the caraway over it before blind baking; use plant-based cheese, butter and cream.
GF: Use GF flour or shop-bought gluten-free pastry sprinkled with caraway seeds.
SEASONAL SWAPS: Try Broccoli and Romanesco in place of the cauliflower.
Extracted from Vegetables by Mark Diacono published by Quadrille at £27. Photo © Mark Diacono.
For other cauliflower pairings see this post.

Tomato and tapenade tart
The most perfect Provençal-style summer tart from Alex Jackson's evocative book Sardine, named after his former London restaurant
Alex writees: This tart is extremely simple. Given the right tomatoes, it’s a highlight of the summer table. At Sardine, we wait until the heavy, deep-coloured Amalfi bull’s heart tomatoes are in season and throw over some datterini or small plum tomatoes to fill in the gaps. A sprinkling of fragrant basil at the end is essential, as well as a drizzle of your best olive oil. Nyons olives make amazing tapenade, but any soft black olives will do nicely.
Tomato & Tapenade Tart
Makes 1 large tart (enough for 4 people for lunch or lots of small squares for a party)
For the tart:
4 bull’s heart tomatoes
1 x 500-g/1lb 2-oz block of pre-rolled puff pastry
A handful of small Italian plum tomatoes, red and yellow if possible
Olive oil
1 bunch of basil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the tapenade:
100g/3 1⁄2oz black olives, drained of any brine or oil and pitted
1⁄8 garlic clove, peeled and crushed to a fine paste
1⁄2 tsp picked thyme leaves
1 salted anchovy fillet, washed and patted dry
1 tsp salted capers, soaked well, washed and drained
1 tsp brandy
4 tsp olive oil
1 tsp red wine vinegar
First, slice the bull’s heart tomatoes into thick 1-cm/1⁄2-inch rounds. Transfer to a sieve (strainer) suspended over a bowl and season well with salt. Leave the tomatoes for a good half hour to allow the juices to drip into the bowl. This will prevent your pastry becoming soggy if the tomatoes hold a lot of juice.
To make the tapenade, put all the dry ingredients in a blender. Blitz well.
Add the wet ingredients and blitz further until everything is fully incorporated.
The tapenade should be very smooth.
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Next, roll out – or simply unfurl, if pre-rolled – the pastry to a rectangle to fit your largest, flat, heavy-based baking tray. Cut a rectangle of parchment paper to the same size, then place the pastry on top. Score a 2-cm/3⁄4-inch border all around the edges of the pastry. This pastry border will puff up around the filling.
Put the baking tray (without the pastry) in the oven to pre-heat for 10 minutes.
To assemble the tart, top the pastry inside the scored border with a generous smearing of tapenade. Arrange the sliced tomatoes in a single layer over the tapenade. Halve the small tomatoes, season with salt, and use them to fill any gaps. Drizzle the tart filling with olive oil and grind over some black pepper.
Remove the hot tray from the oven, slide in the tart on the parchment paper and return the tray to the oven. Bake the tart for 30 minutes, or until the pastry borders are puffed and crisp, the base is a light golden brown (lift the tart tentatively with a spatula to check) and the tomatoes are soft, squidgy and just started to take on a little colour.
Remove the tart from the oven, season lightly with a little flaky sea salt and black pepper, and scatter over the torn basil leaves. Allow the tart to cool on its tray, then slice into squares while still just warm. Drizzle with your best olive oil before serving.
What to drink: a Provençal rosé would be the obvious match with this summery tart but you could also enjoy a crisp white like a Vermentino or a Picpoul de Pinet.
Extracted from Sardine: Simple seasonal Provençal cooking by Alex Jackson, published by Pavilion Books. Photograph © Matt Russell

Spring vegetable tart with mustard cream and watercress
If you're looking for an impressive vegetarian centrepiece to a spring meal this lovely light recipe from Signe Johansen's and Peter's Yard's book Smörgåsbord, is perfect though if you serve it on its own I think it would probably only feed 4-6! (Only 4 in my family!)
Signe writes: "Wonderful as a vegetarian centrepiece for a springtime smörgåsbord, or as an accompaniment to fish and meat dishes, this puff pastry tart using seasonal baby veg tastes as delicious as it looks.
serves 6-8
1 x 320g (11oz) pack ready-rolled puff pastry
4 eggs, 3 whole and 1 yolk
100g (3½oz) asparagus tips, cut into 2cm (¾ inch) batons
6 baby courgettes, halved lengthways
3 baby aubergines, quartered lengthways
3 baby leeks, sliced into rounds about 2cm (¾ inch) thick
2 tbsp olive oil
100g (3½oz) crème fraîche
150g (5½oz) soft goat’s cheese, crumbled
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
small bunch of dill, finely chopped
2 tarragon sprigs, leaves stripped and finely chopped
2 large handfuls of watercress, to serve
for the dressing:
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp wholegrain mustard
1 tsp white wine vinegar
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan (400°F), Gas Mark 6.
Unroll the pastry onto a large baking tray lined with baking parchment and lightly score a 1cm (½ inch) border all the way around. Beat the egg yolk and brush it over the border to glaze. Toss the prepared vegetables with the oil and spread out on a second tray. Place both in the oven, with the vegetables on the top shelf, for 20 minutes, until the pastry has puffed up and the veg is just tender. Press down the centre of the pastry with the back of a spoon.
In a bowl, mix the 3 eggs with the crème fraîche, goat’s cheese, mustard, the herbs and some salt and pepper. Spread over the tart base, avoiding the border. Arrange the veg on top then return to the oven for about 20 minutes until the filing has set.
Make a dressing by whisking together the oil, mustard, vinegar and a little salt and pepper. Remove the tart from the oven and cool a little before scattering over the watercress and drizzling with the dressing.
What to drink: I always associate mustart with Chablis so would probably go for that but any crisp dry unoaked white like a Gavi or even a good pinot grigio would be delicious
Smörgåsbord: Deliciously simple modern Scandinavian recipes by Peter's Yard with Signe Johansen is published by Kyle Books, £18.99, www.octopusbooks.co.uk Photography: Ali Allen

Parsnip, Miso, Oat and Shallot Boulangère
A gorgeously hearty, warming vegetable-based dish from Gizzi Erskine's inspiring book Restore which is full of and advice on how to eat ethically and seasonally.
This recipe is from the Autumn to Winter section and combines one of my favourite winter vegetables, parsnips with miso and, intriguingly, with oats.
Gizzi writes: Boulangère is a gratin of potatoes made by cooking potatoes in the juice (stock) and fat of lamb - the unsung hero of the potato dauphinois. Playing around with root vegetables in a gratin is a great way to really understand them. I've replaced the lamb stock and fat with a chicken or vegetable stock pumped up with miso and oat cream, that you can buy or make yourself. The flavour of the oat is what I want here, not the creaminess, and oat and parsnip are dreamy together.
This dish is a good way to show how we often overlook the flavours of the modern plant-based movement. This gratin is superb as a main dish for a supper or served as a side dish, and if you make it with vegetable stock, your vegan friends will thank you."
SERVES 4 as a side dish
Preparation lime 15 minutes
Cooking lime 45 minutes
2 tbsp oil
4 shallots, very thinly sliced
500g parsnips, cut into very fine rounds (ideally using a mandolin e or a food processor with a thin slicing attachment)
500ml fresh vegetable stock (or chicken stock if you're not making it for vegetarians or vegans)
1 tbsp white miso paste
½ tsp salt
250ml oat cream
few sprigs of thyme
freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/gas mark 9.
Start by sweating the shallots. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat, add the shallots and cook gently for about 20 minutes, stirring regularly, until beautifully soft and caramelised.
Add the sliced parsnips (I don't think they need peeling - the peel adds a nice texture) to a separate saucepan, along with the stock, miso paste and salt. Bring to the boil then take off the heat immediately. Drain the parsnips, reserving the stock. Return the stock to the pan and cook over a high heat until the volume has reduced to about 150ml and the stock has a thick, syrupy consistency.
While the stock is reducing, you can start constructing the dish. Once the parsnips are cool enough to handle, take a gratin dish (about 2 litre capacity) and make a layer of parsnips on the bottom, two or three parsnip slices thick. Spoon over a thin layer of the shallots, season with pepper and the leaves from the sprigs of thyme. Repeat this process until you have used everything up.
To finish the sauce, add the oat cream to the stock and allow to reduce further for a couple of minutes until thickened slightly. Pour this over the parsnips and put the dish in the oven to bake for 20 minutes, until the top is crisp and golden. Remove from the oven and leave to sit for a couple of minutes before serving.
What to drink: I'd go for a rich white with this, maybe with a lick of oak. I'm thinking white Rhône or Roussillon (anything from grenache blanc or gris), oaked white rioja or a Douro white
Extracted from Restore: a modern guide to sustainable eating by Gizzi Erskine is published by HQ at £25
Photography credit – c. Issy Croker.

Beetroot and pinot noir risotto
Beets are everywhere at the moment but have you ever thought of using them in a risotto? And adding a dash of pinot noir?
This is one of my favourite recipes from my book Wine Lover's Kitchen which is perfect for this time of year. The sweetness of pinot chimes in beautifully with the earthy flavour of the beetroot/ beets. Use the freshest possible ones you can find for the deepest colour and flavour. (It’s worth wearing a pair of disposable plastic gloves when you cut them up so you don’t stain your hands!)
Vegetarian
Serves 4
3 tbsp olive oil
200g/7oz red onion, roughly chopped
3-4 fresh beetroot (about 450g) ideally with their leaves
I clove of garlic, crushed
225g arborio (1 1/8 cups) or other risotto rice
150ml (2/3 cup) inexpensive fruity pinot noir e.g. from Chile
1 litre (4 cups) hot miso stock made with miso bouillon powder
100g/3 1/2 oz mild, crumbly goat's cheese
a few sprigs of fresh dill or a handful of chives, chopped
Heat the oil in a large frying plan and fry the onion over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Peel the beetroot/beets and cut into small cubes, add to the pan, season with salt and pepper and cook for another 10 minutes.
Add the crushed garlic, cook for a minute then tip in the rice and cook, stirring for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the pinot noir and let it evaporate. Add the hot stock, about 50ml/3 tbsp at a time, stirring occasionally and letting each addition absorb before adding the next.
Once the rice is cooked (about 20 minutes), add a little extra stock or water, check the seasoning and leave for 5 minutes. Warm your serving bowls. Wash the beet leaves if you have some, strip from the stalks and cook down in a saucepan without any extra water. Place a few leaves in each bowl, spoon in the risotto, top with crumbled goats cheese and sprinkle with chopped dill or chives
What to drink: The pinot noir you used in the recipe. For other risotto pairings see
White or red wine: what's the best pairing for risotto?
And for other beetroot dishes The best wines to pair with beetroot
Extracted from Wine Lover's Kitchen by Fiona Beckett published by Ryland, Peters & Small. Photograph ©Mowie Kay
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