Recipes
Kid Rogan Josh
One of the most interesting cookbooks to come out in the past couple of years is James Whetlor's Goat - a book of recipes for using goat meat.
Whetlor used to work with Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall at River Cottage then set up a company called Cabrito to sell the meat from billy goats who would otherwise have been immediately put down because they were not milk producers.
He saw the potential for using this sustainable and delicious type of meat and has been selling it to chefs and consumers ever since. (It's well worth reading the fascinating introduction to the book.)
This is his recipe for Rogan Josh which he says is one of his favourite curries, worth doubling up and freezing any leftovers.
Kid Rogan Josh
Serves 4
600g/1lb 5oz diced kid
75g/1/3 cup plain yoghurt
2 teaspoons chilli powder (add more if you want it hotter)
2 teaspoons unsmoked paprika
1 red onion, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
small bunch of coriander (cilantro), leaves and stalks separated
30g/2 tablespoons butter
1 cinnamon stick
5 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
3 whole cloves
3 tomatoes, roughly chopped, or ½ x 400g/14oz can tomatoes
salt
Mix together the meat, yoghurt, chilli, paprika and ½ teaspoon salt, and leave to marinate for at least 1 hour, and up to 8 hours in the fridge.
Put the onion, ginger, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt and the coriander (cilantro) stalks in a small food processor and blend to a coarse paste.
Melt the butter in a frying pan, add all the whole spices and fry for 30 seconds. Add the paste and cook for 15 minutes until all the liquid has evaporated and the paste begins to stick to the bottom of the pan.
Add the meat and its marinade with the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes to break down the tomatoes. Add 200ml/scant 1 cup water then cover and simmer for 1 hour or until the meat is tender and the sauce is rich and thick. Keep an eye on it so it doesn’t dry out, adding a little bit of water if it does.
Check the seasoning and sprinkle with the coriander leaves, roughly chopped. Serve with rice, naan and chilli and garlic chutney (the recipe for which is also in the book).
What to drink: I like a young rioja or other tempranillo with a rogan josh which is not an exceptionally hot curry though you can obviously add extra chilli powder or chilli flakes in which case I'd probably go for a South African pinotage.
Extracted from Goat: Cooking and Eating by James Whetlor (Quadrille, £20.00) Photography: Mike Lusmore. 50% of the royalties from the book go to the charity Farm Africa.
You can buy goat from the Cabrito online shop and other specialist online meat suppliers.
Wilhelm Coetzee's Butterflied Leg of Lamb
I first met winemaker Wilhelm Coetzee back in 2006 when he was working for Flagstone. He's now working at Durbanville Hills and this is his favourite 'braii' recipe.
"In South Africa a lot of our lamb meat comes from the "Karoo" (an arid but beautiful part of our country and a place where the farmers are very passionate about their meat). The shrubs that these lamb feed on (free range) is very herbaceous and spicy, so when you buy the meat it's already tender with a natural herby/spicy character. For the recipe you need a small leg of lamb (1.3kg), deboned and butterflied.
The marinade:
500ml Bulgarian yogurt
2 cloves of garlic finely chopped
1 tbsp of grounded coriander seeds
1 tsp of grounded cumin
1 small onion finely chopped
Mix all the ingredients together, keep half of it aside (store in a airtight vessel) to serve with the barbequed lamb, cover the lamb with the rest, put in a plastic bag remove the air and leave in the fridge for two days.
Before you barbeque, remove the lamb from the bag and wipe off excess marinade with paper towel.
Basting sauce for the barbeque:
250g good quality unsalted butter
100ml Verjuice
1 clove garlic finely chopped
Put the ingredients in a saucepan and melt the butter over a low heat.
Barbeque over medium hot coals but not too close to the heat. Turn after 10 minutes, baste, and season well with Maldon salt and black pepper. After another 10 minutes turn again and do the same as above. Now you can start turning every 5 minutes, basting after every turn. Take the lamb off the coals when medium done (about 50 minutes) and let it rest for 10 minutes. Slice thinly and serve with the marinade that was kept aside. (What I also like to serve with the meat is a fresh coriander pesto made with salted pistachio nuts instead of pine nuts).
With the leg of lamb I like to serve oven roasted vegetables. I prefer to use red and yellow veggies like:
Red and yellow peppers
Red onion
Nice sweet tomatoes
Butternut squash
Carrots
Just drizzle with olive oil, season and pop into the oven at 200 degrees C until they're tender (about 40-45 minutes)
To complete the color scheme do a salad of green baby leaves and parmesan shavings, squeeze some fresh lemon over and drizzle with olive oil.
To all this you add good friends and wine and have a feast!
Wine to serve with this:
Originally Wilhelm suggested the Flagstone Dragon Tree 2004 (a blend of Cabernet, Pinotage, Shiraz and Merlot) as the ideal match but since he moved to Durbanville Hills he's loyally suggesting the Durbanville Hills Bastion 2011, a smooth, minty Cabernet Shiraz blend (not currently available in the UK so far as I can make out but any similar Cape blend or Cabernet blend would do)
Image © sumos - Fotolia.com
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