Recipes

Parsnip, Miso, Oat and Shallot Boulangère
A gorgeously hearty, warming vegetable-based dish from Gizzi Erskine's inspiring book Restore which is full of and advice on how to eat ethically and seasonally.
This recipe is from the Autumn to Winter section and combines one of my favourite winter vegetables, parsnips with miso and, intriguingly, with oats.
Gizzi writes: Boulangère is a gratin of potatoes made by cooking potatoes in the juice (stock) and fat of lamb - the unsung hero of the potato dauphinois. Playing around with root vegetables in a gratin is a great way to really understand them. I've replaced the lamb stock and fat with a chicken or vegetable stock pumped up with miso and oat cream, that you can buy or make yourself. The flavour of the oat is what I want here, not the creaminess, and oat and parsnip are dreamy together.
This dish is a good way to show how we often overlook the flavours of the modern plant-based movement. This gratin is superb as a main dish for a supper or served as a side dish, and if you make it with vegetable stock, your vegan friends will thank you."
SERVES 4 as a side dish
Preparation lime 15 minutes
Cooking lime 45 minutes
2 tbsp oil
4 shallots, very thinly sliced
500g parsnips, cut into very fine rounds (ideally using a mandolin e or a food processor with a thin slicing attachment)
500ml fresh vegetable stock (or chicken stock if you're not making it for vegetarians or vegans)
1 tbsp white miso paste
½ tsp salt
250ml oat cream
few sprigs of thyme
freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/gas mark 9.
Start by sweating the shallots. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat, add the shallots and cook gently for about 20 minutes, stirring regularly, until beautifully soft and caramelised.
Add the sliced parsnips (I don't think they need peeling - the peel adds a nice texture) to a separate saucepan, along with the stock, miso paste and salt. Bring to the boil then take off the heat immediately. Drain the parsnips, reserving the stock. Return the stock to the pan and cook over a high heat until the volume has reduced to about 150ml and the stock has a thick, syrupy consistency.
While the stock is reducing, you can start constructing the dish. Once the parsnips are cool enough to handle, take a gratin dish (about 2 litre capacity) and make a layer of parsnips on the bottom, two or three parsnip slices thick. Spoon over a thin layer of the shallots, season with pepper and the leaves from the sprigs of thyme. Repeat this process until you have used everything up.
To finish the sauce, add the oat cream to the stock and allow to reduce further for a couple of minutes until thickened slightly. Pour this over the parsnips and put the dish in the oven to bake for 20 minutes, until the top is crisp and golden. Remove from the oven and leave to sit for a couple of minutes before serving.
What to drink: I'd go for a rich white with this, maybe with a lick of oak. I'm thinking white Rhône or Roussillon (anything from grenache blanc or gris), oaked white rioja or a Douro white
Extracted from Restore: a modern guide to sustainable eating by Gizzi Erskine is published by HQ at £25
Photography credit – c. Issy Croker.

Root Vegetable Stew with Herb and Mustard Dumplings
If you've been experimenting with vegan food this January or 'veganuary' as it's been dubbed you'll know that vegan food doesn't have to be insubstantial or, indeed uninteresting. For those of you who remain to be convinced here's a hearty stew from Rachel Demuth of Demuth's Cookery School in Bath which contains both cider and sherry!
Rachel writes: Stews and slow-cooking dishes are perfect for cold winter days. Winter food needs to be piping hot, comforting, filling, sustaining and hearty.
The choice of vegetables can be altered to what you have in the kitchen. If you like swede or turnips, add some. Dumplings are the ultimate in comfort food!
Root Vegetable Stew with Herb and Mustard Dumplings
Serves: 4
Dietary: Vegan
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 50 minutes
Ingredients:
- 6 shallots, peeled and quartered
- 4 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 leek, sliced
- 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
- 1 parsnip, peeled and chopped
- 2 potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
- 440ml dry cider
- 1 tbsp sherry
- 2 bay leaves
- a few sage leaves
- 500ml vegetable stock
- 1 tsp Marmite
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- handful of fresh parsley, chopped
Dumplings
- 110g self-raising white flour
- 1 tsp mustard powder
- 50g vegetable suet or margarine
- 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- ½ tbsp chopped fresh sage
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- cold water to mix
Method:
- In a large casserole dish fry the shallots in the rapeseed oil until they are golden.
- Add the garlic and the leeks. Fry for a couple more minutes, and then add the carrots, parsnip and potatoes and stir-fry.
- Add the cider and sherry and bring to the boil.
- Mix the Marmite into the vegetable stock and add to the stew along with the bay leaves and sage leaves.
- Season to taste and simmer gently for about 25 minutes or until all the vegetables are nearly cooked, before you add the dumplings.
- While the stew is simmering, make the dumplings. They need to be added 15 minutes before the stew is ready.
- Sieve the flour with the mustard powder into a large bowl then add the vegetable suet or margarine, salt and freshly ground black pepper and fresh herbs. Just before adding to the stew, mix in enough water, a little at a time, to make a firm but not sticky dough. With floured hands, break the dough into about 12 small pieces and roll them into round dumplings.
- Before adding the dumplings, check the stew for seasoning and add the chopped parsley. At this stage you may need to add some more liquid so that there is sufficient for the dumplings to cook through. Add the dumplings to the stew, push them down into the liquid and simmer gently for 15 minutes or until the dumplings have doubled in size.
- Serve in large deep bowls in front of the fire.
What to drink: Since you're using cider to make this delicious stew I'd definitely drink cider with it.
You may also find this post on pairing wine with vegan food useful.
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