Recipes

Blood Orange and Rhubarb Meringue Pie
This spring is seeing a bumper crop of new cookery books of which Catherine Phipps' Citrus is one of the most enticing ...
If you want to take advantage of the rhubarb and blood oranges that are in the shops at the moment you couldn't find a better way to use them.
Cat writes: "Most meringue pies use a sweet pastry, but as I find the meringue so sweet, I think it is better served with a very buttery shortcrust (pie dough), so I take out the sugar.
The butter in the filling is optional – it’s not always used and I think it adds a richness, making the filling more like curd and less like custard."
Blood Orange and Rhubarb Meringue Pie
Serves 6
For the pastry
225g/1 ¾ cups plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
150g/2/3 cup butter, chilled and diced
1 egg yolk
A pinch of salt
For the filling
400g/14oz rhubarb, preferably the pink forced kind, cut into short (2cm/ ¾ -in) lengths
60g/1⁄₃ cup caster (superfine) sugar
Finely grated zest of 2 blood oranges and juice of up to 4 blood oranges
1 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)
3 egg yolks
30g/1 tbsp butter (optional)
For the meringue topping
4 egg whites (left from pastry and filling)
225g/1 ¼ cups caster (superfine) sugar
½ tsp cream of tartar
First make the pastry. Either whiz the flour and butter in a food processor or rub in by hand until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs, then add the egg yolk and salt. Mix briefly, adding a little chilled water if necessary, until you can bring the pastry together into a ball – it should need no more than a tablespoon. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas mark 5.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface and use to line a pie dish (between 21 and 23cm/8 and 9in in diameter). Prick all over with a fork, then line with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove the beans and bake for a further 5 minutes or so until the pastry is a light golden brown. Remove from the oven.
To make the filling, put the rhubarb into a baking dish, sprinkle with the sugar and orange zest and roast in the oven for 30–35 minutes, stirring every so often – if youare organized you can cook this at the same time as you are blind baking the pastry. Strain the rhubarb juice into a measuring jug and set aside the solids. Add enough blood orange juice to make up the rhubarb juice to 250ml/1 cup plus 1 tbsp.
Use a small amount of the liquid to whisk the cornflour (cornstarch) into a thin paste in a bowl, and heat the rest in a medium saucepan. When the liquid is hot, pour some of it over the cornflour mixture, whisking constantly, then pour this back into the saucepan. Stir over a low heat until the mixture thickens – this is likely to happen very suddenly. Add the egg yolks and butter, if using, and continue to whisk. Remove from the heat and stir through the reserved rhubarb. Pour into the cooked pastry case. If you have time, leave it to cool and chill down completely as it will help the texture enormously and prevent possible separation.
To make the meringue, whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until well aerated and just starting to form stiff peaks. Continuing to whisk, add the sugar a tablespoon at a time until the meringue is beautifully stiff and glossy, then add the remaining sugar all at once, and sprinkle in the cream of tartar. Pipe or pile the meringue over the filling.
Bake in the oven for around 15–20 minutes until the meringue is a dappled golden brown. I love this both hot and cold and I don’t think it needs any embellishment.
What to drink: You want a really sweet wine with good acidity with this delicious pie. I suggest a young late harvest riesling or a Canadian ice wine. FB
From CITRUS: Recipes that celebrate the sour and the sweet by Catherine Phipps (Quadrille, £20.00) Photography: Mowie Kay

Sybil Kapoor's apple and blackberry meringue
A lovely seasonal dessert from Sybil Kapoor's National Trust - Simply Baking. "Soft-baked meringues make a gorgeous pudding in the early autumn, especially when topped with cider-poached fruit and apple brandy cream."
Serves 6
6 medium egg whites
250g/9oz caster sugar
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
1½ teaspoons cornflour
icing sugar, sifted, for dusting
Apple topping
150ml/5fl oz dry cider
85g/3oz unrefined caster sugar
4 strips finely pared lemon zest
4 dessert apples, such as Cox’s Orange Pippin or Braeburn
250g/9oz blackberries
Apple brandy cream
285ml/10fl oz double cream
4 tablespoons apple brandy or Calvados
1 Preheat the oven to fan 140°C/gas 2. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. In a large, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, then gradually whisk in the caster sugar until the mixture is thick and glossy. Using a flat metal spoon, fold in the vinegar and cornflour. Spread the mixture evenly over the baking parchment in a 20 x 30cm/8 x 12in rectangle. Bake for 20 minutes or until soft and marshmallow-like.
2 Leave to rest on the baking sheet for a few minutes. Liberally dust a sheet of baking parchment with icing sugar. Gently tip the meringue on to the sugar-dusted parchment, peel away the baking paper and leave to cool.
3 To make the apple topping, put the cider, sugar and lemon zest in a non-corrosive saucepan. Set the pan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved and simmer gently while you peel, core and dice or slice the apples. Add these to the cider syrup and simmer gently for 4 minutes or until just tender. Mix in the blackberries, return to a simmer, then remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fruit to a bowl. Simmer the syrup for a few minutes until it thickens slightly, remove the lemon zest and pour over the fruit. Leave until cold.
4 To make the apple brandy cream, put the cream and apple brandy in a large bowl and whisk until the cream forms soft peaks. Chill until needed.
5 To serve, cut the meringue into six squares and place one on each serving plate. Top with some of the apple brandy cream, then spoon on the fruit so that it spills over the meringue.
This recipe comes from National Trust Simply Baking by Sybil Kapoor (National Trust Books). Recipe photography by Karen Thomas.
What to drink: Given the boozy cream I'm not going to go for wine but cider brandy itself would be too strong. A dessert cider like Once Upon a Tree's lovely Blenheim Superb Dessert Cider would be the perfect match.

Pomegranate Eton Mess
To round off National Vegetarian Week here's a recipe from one of the most inspiring vegetarian cookery books I've come across: Sally Butcher's charming, idiosyncratic Veggiestan.. Sally runs an Iranian food store called Persepolis in south-east London so the recipes - which are terrific - all have an middle-eastern slant. It's also a cracking read!
This is how she introduces it:
Now I’m a bit cross about this dish. ‘Cos I sort of invented it. And then a friend of mine in Oz said she’d read a similar recipe in the Melbourne Times or some such. And then the divine Nigella came out with another version of it.
Anyway, this is my recipe. Completely unauthentic but drawing upon the very finest ingredients of the Middle East. And the perfect conclusion to a Middle Eastern feast.
Eton Mess has to be the easiest sweet in the world to prepare. And, as this recipe shows, it is so easy to tart up.
Rose syrup is easy to find in Greek shops – ask for ‘triandafilou’.
Serves 4
2 egg whites
100g/3½oz/½ cup caster sugar
¼ teaspoon baking powder
(or replace the above 3 ingredients with 4–5 shop-bought meringue nests)
2 medium pomegranates
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup whipping/double cream
2 tablespoons rose syrup
handful of rose petals (optional decoration)
Meringues first. Preheat your oven to 160ËšC/325ËšF/Gas mark 3. Whip the egg whites until they start to peak, and then fold in the sugar little by little, followed by the baking powder. Line a baking tray with baking parchment, and then spoon the mixture on to it in random blobs – the finished product is to be broken up anyway, and so appearance and uniformity are irrelevant.
Turn the oven down to 120ËšC/250ËšF/Gas mark ½, and pop the tray in there for 2 hours. If you have time on your side, and the luxury of an airing cupboard at home, take the meringues out of the oven a little earlier, cover them lightly with a cloth and leave them in the airing cupboard overnight – this will get you the perfect, light finish.
Next to the pomegranates. Take one in both hands and gently knead it all around with your thumbs: you will be able to feel the seeds inside popping as you go. Do not do this too vigorously, as you may burst the skin, which will at the very least splatter you with largely indelible red juice. After a couple of minutes, make a small incision in the skin of the pomegranate, and invert it over a glass: you should now be able to squeeze out the juice from all the seeds you have burst. Now that the tension in the skin has been eased, it will be easy to pry the fruit open, and you will be able to crumble all the intact seeds into a bowl. Repeat this exercise with the other pomegranate.
Next, whip the cream together with the rose syrup and the pomegranate juice. Such a pretty pink, no?
Assembly time. Don’t do this until just before you want to serve – the whole thing will sink slowly if you do it too early. Break the meringue roughly into the rose cream, and then stir in most of the pomegranate seeds. Arrange a few rose petals around your chosen serving dish, pile the Eton mess into the centre, and strew with the reserved pom seeds.
Note:
Never choose a pom because it will look good in your fruit bowl; generally speaking the ones with the tauter, drier skins and the slightly angular shape are best. Size is immaterial – the smaller ones are often the sweetest.
What to drink:
You need a fresh-tasting young dessert wine with good acidity for this. A late harvest Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling would be ideal or, echoing the rose syrup, a vendange tardive Gewurztraminer
Recipe from Sally Butcher’s Veggiestan, published by Pavilion. Recipe photography by Yuki Sugiura.
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