Smoked trout with griddled lemon, cucumber & sourdough croutons

A fresh, simple, clever recipe for two from one of the most charming of last year's cookery books, Rosie Birkett's A Lot on her Plate

Rosie writes: "This dish, Scandinavian in tone thanks to the pickles and smoked fish, takes ingredients that you may have lying around – lemon, cucumber and bread – and transforms them into something special, by charring them to add a smoky dimension and intensify their natural flavours. I get my smoked trout from Mike Scott, the chef at Hackney’s wonderful Raw Duck restaurant, who smokes it himself at home, but this would work with any good-quality smoked fish, be it trout, mackerel or hot-smoked salmon.

Serves 2

1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar (get the good unpasteurised stuff if you can)

2 radishes, finely sliced

sea salt

2 baby or Lebanese cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise and halved across the middle

1 lemon, cut in half

1 slice of sourdough bread

6 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for grilling

2 tablespoons roughly chopped dill

2 smoked trout fillets, skin removed

borage flowers, to garnish (optional)

4 teaspoons plain natural yoghurt, to serve

Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar in a small bowl and quick-pickle the radish slices in the mixture.

Heat a griddle pan over a high heat until it’s stinking hot. Scatter with a pinch of sea salt. Brush the cucumber pieces, cut sides of the lemon and sourdough bread with olive oil and griddle for about 8 minutes, until there are black grill marks on them, turning the bread and cucumber over once.

When the ingredients are grilled, remove from the heat and squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl with the olive oil. Whisk with a fork, add the dill and a pinch of salt, and whisk some more, until well combined. Cut the sourdough into croutons.

Drain the radishes from their pickle liquor and place on kitchen paper to absorb the excess vinegar. Divide the cucumber between two plates and flake over the smoked trout. Top with the radish slices and drizzle over the dill and lemon oil.

Scatter over the sourdough croutons and borage flowers, if using, and finish eachserving with a couple of teaspoons of natural yoghurt.

What to drink: I think you want something equally fresh-tasting with this. A crisp dry white like a Picpoul or an Albarino would be good or try a (genuinely) dry young riesling

From A Lot on her Plate by Rosie Birkett (Hardie Grant, £25.00) Photography: Helen Cathcart. For more recipes see Rosie's website.

Potato and lemon frittata with watercress & almond salad

An unusual and fresh-tasting frittata that would make a perfect brunch dish from Ryn and Cordie's In Search of the Perfect Partner (The Food and Wine Matching Formula) reviewed here.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS
3 baby potatoes
Oil or butter for greasing the dish
200g firm ricotta
4 large free range eggs
50ml cream
1 tsp cumin
1.5 lemons, zested & juiced (keep separate)
1/4 bunch chives, chopped
Salt & pepper
1 large bunch watercress
1 small red onion, sliced into rings
30ml extra virgin olive oil
80g flaked almonds, toasted

METHOD
1. Cook the potatoes in boiling water until tender. When cooled slightly, dice into 1cm cubes.
2. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
3. Grease a 25cm pie dish with oil or butter. Place the potatoes in the dish, and crumble the ricotta over the top.
4. Whisk the eggs and cream together, then add cumin, lemon zest and three quarters of the lemon juice (set aside the remaining lemon juice), chives, pepper and salt.
5. Pour this egg mix over the potatoes and ricotta. Bake the frittata for 20-25 minutes or until the egg has set. Set aside to cool slightly.
6. In a bowl, toss the watercress and sliced onion, and drizzle with the olive oil and some lemon juice. Season to taste.

TO SERVE: Plate a wedge of frittata next to a generous portion of salad and sprinkle with the almonds.

MATCH! The freshness and zestiness of a young Semillon makes a fabulous fusion with this frittata. Find one from the Hunter Valley and dig in!