Recipes

Romy Gill's lamb harissa
One of the most beautiful and original books that has been published recently is Romy Gill's On the Himalayan Trail which focusses on the food of Kashmir and Ladakh. Here's her recipe for lamb harissa which - surely a bonus for meateaters - is commonly garnished with a sheekh kebab. I also like the idea it's a brunch dish!
Romy writes: "Harissa is better with lamb, but it can be made with chicken, too. Traditionally, the harissa is cooked overnight and served up at family brunches – it’s a staple of many Kashmiri households. I’ve cut down the cooking time here, but the result is just as delicious.
SERVES 10–12
INGREDIENTS
SUNFLOWER OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING
500 G (1 LB 2 OZ) SHALLOTS, THINLY SLICED
1 KG (2 LB 4 OZ) LEG OF LAMB
2.5 LITRES (87 FL OZ/10 CUPS) WATER
12 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED
11/2 TEASPOONS SALT
2 TEASPOONS GROUND GINGER
1 TABLESPOON FENNEL SEEDS
6 WHOLE CLOVES
8 CM (3 IN) CINNAMON STICK
10 GREEN CARDAMOM PODS
6 BLACK CARDAMOM PODS
6 BLACK PEPPERCORNS
75 G (21/2 OZ/GENEROUS 1/3 CUP) RICE FLOUR
250 ML (81/2 FL OZ/1 CUP) MILK
4 TEASPOONS GHEE, TO SERVE
Pour sunflower oil into a deep, heavy-based pan to a depth of 8 cm (3 in). Place over a medium heat and heat to 180°C/350°F on a digital thermometer. Alternatively, you can drop in a tiny piece of bread: if it sizzles and browns in 15 seconds, the oil is hot enough.
Once the oil is hot, carefully add the shallots to the pan and deep-fry until crispy and brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on a plate lined with paper towels.
Place the lamb leg in a large pan. and add the measured water. Bring to the boil and skim off and discard any scum that rises to the surface. When the broth is clear, add the garlic cloves, salt, ground ginger and all of the whole spices. Cook over a low heat for 3–4 hours, or until the meat falls away from the bone.
When the meat is cooked, remove from the heat and strain the cooking stock into a jug, discarding the whole spices. Remove the flesh from the bones and set the meat aside to rest.
Add the rice flour to the stock and whisk to combine, then place it back in the pan over a low heat. Add the milk and the cooked meat, and cook for at least 1 hour, stirring frequently, until the gravy is smooth.
Leave to rest before eating. In Kashmir, they eat it warm, hot or cold. When ready to eat, divide among bowls. Heat the ghee and pour it over the harissa, then serve garnished with sheekh kebabs and the crispy fried shallots.
For the sheekh kebabs
SERVES 3–4
INGREDIENTS
1 KG (2 LB 4 OZ) MINCED (GROUND) LAMB (IDEALLY LEG MEAT)
2–3 TEASPOONS KASHMIRI CHILLI POWDER
11/2 TEASPOONS SALT
1 TEASPOON DRIED MINT
1 TSP GROUND CUMIN
1 TEASPOON SAFFRON STRANDS
1 TSP BLACK CARDAMOM SEEDS, CRUSHED TO A POWDER IN A PESTLE AND MORTAR
1/2 TEASPOON BLACK CUMIN SEEDS, CRUSHED TO A POWDER IN A PESTLE AND MORTAR
HANDFUL OF FRESH CORIANDER (CILANTRO) LEAVES, CHOPPED, PLUS EXTRA TO SERVE
1 LARGE EGG, LIGHTLY BEATEN
TO SERVE
SLICED SHALLOTS
LIME WEDGES
CHUTNEY OF YOUR CHOICE (OPTIONAL)
Combine all the ingredients, except the egg, in a large mixing bowl. Mix together, kneading as you would a dough, until well combined. Cover and refrigerate for1 hour.
Remove from the refrigerator, then place the mixture in a food processor. Add the egg and blend to a paste.
Divide the mixture into 6 equal-sized portions. Wet your hands with cold water and mould each portion around a skewer, gently pressing and shaping each into a long sausage. With damp hands, smooth the surface of each kebab.
Meanwhile, prepare a barbecue or preheat the oven grill (broiler) to high.
Cook the skewers on the hot barbecue or under the grill for 8–10 minutes, turning them after 5 minutes and rotating them frequently until well browned and cooked on all sides.
Serve scattered with coriander and sliced shallots, with lime wedges for squeezing and a chutney of your choice, if you like.
What to drink: Romy suggests drinking chai with this (the Noon Chai in the book) but if you wanted to drink wine I'd choose a mellow aged red like a rioja gran reserva or a mature Lebanese red
Extracted from On the Himalayan Trail by Romy Gill published by Hardie Grant. Photography by Poras Chaudhary and Matt Russell

Roast leg of lamb with basil, pecorino, garlic and wine
If you want to ring the changes on your Sunday roast try this delicious recipe from Diana Henry's brilliant new book From the Oven to the Table.
Diana writes: "This came about after I cooked a Greek dish that had a stuffing made from a Greek cheese (not unlike pecorino) and ground allspice. I’d never thought about a cheese stuffing for lamb before. So this is just something that came out of my kitchen for Sunday lunch one week: Italian ingredients, Greek-inspired.
serves 6–8
120g (4¼oz) pecorino cheese, finely grated
6 garlic cloves, finely grated
sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
leaves from a small bunch of basil, plus more to serve (optional)
1.8kg (4lb) leg of lamb
2 medium red onions, cut into wedges
600g (1lb 5oz) small waxy potatoes, scrubbed, then halved or quartered, depending on size
350g (12oz) red and yellow tomatoes, halved or quartered
250ml (9fl oz) white wine
Preheat the oven to 220°C fan (450°F), Gas Mark 8.
Put the cheese, garlic and some salt into a mortar and pound to a rough purée, gradually adding the olive oil. Tear the basil leaves, add them to the mortar and pound them, too.
Place the leg of lamb in a roasting tin. Make deep incisions all over it and push the paste from the mortar down into them. You can also loosen the meat around the bone to make a pocket and push the paste into that, too. Season all over and put into the oven.
Roast for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 180°C fan (375°F), Gas Mark 5. Add the onions, potatoes and tomatoes to the roasting tin, toss them in the fat in the pan, adding a little more oil if it’s needed to moisten them, then season and roast for a final 45 minutes, adding the wine after 20 minutes. The lamb will be pink. If you prefer it more well done, cook itfor a little longer.
Remove the lamb to a plate, cover with foil, insulate well (I use old towels or tea towels) and leave to rest for 15 minutes. If the potatoes are tender, cover them and keep warm in a low oven while the lamb rests; if they’re still a bit firm, increase the oven temperature to 200°C fan (410°F), Gas Mark 6½, return the vegetables to the oven, uncovered, and cook until they’re ready.
Serve the lamb with the potatoes, tomatoes and onions, scattered with a few basil leaves, if you like.
What to drink: Given the inspiration is Greek and the ingredients Italian I'd go for a Greek or an Italian wine - it could be white or red. For a Greek red look for an agiorgitiko or for a white, an assyrtiko. For an Italian red Chianti would actually go pretty well or a light Sicilian red such as frappato or nerello mascalese. Or almost any dry Italian white - I'd fancy a Greco di Tufo.
This recipe comes from From the Oven to the Table: Simple dishes that look after themselves by Diana Henry is published by Mitchell Beazley, £25.00,www.octopusbooks.co.uk. Photograph © Laura Edwards

Lamb Boulangère with spruce beer
I've been looking forward to beer writer Melissa Cole's new book The Beer Kitchen since I heard about it a few months ago. As I expected it's packed not only with delicious recipes but some great suggestions for the type of beers to use in and pair with each dish (see the Cook and Pair suggestions below)
Serves 6–8
Melissa writes: This is one of my go-to lazy Sunday roast recipes. I'm not renowned for my patience and normally for a dish like this you’d be exhorted to poke little holes in the lamb skin and stick anchovies, herbs and slivers of garlic in them – but it’s such a lot of fuss, so I’ve devised a simpler and, pleasingly, more efficient way to infuse these flavours into your meat.
Two quick notes on this: firstly, buy a cheap mandolin – it’s an invaluable kitchen tool, but always use the guard. Don’t argue with me! Cutting yourself on a mandolin blade is a sickening feeling that you'll never forget – trust me. Second, you will need a BIG roasting dish and some turkey foil or a large roasting tray (pan) with a lid.
Ingredients
2.25–2.5 kg (5 lb 8 oz–5 lb 10 oz) bone-in lamb shoulder
4 tablespoons anchovy paste (if you can’t find the paste, pound 20-30 preserved anchovies to a paste in a pestle and mortar)
10 large sprigs of lemon or ordinary thyme, leaves picked and finely chopped
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) waxy potatoes
2 red onions
1 large garlic bulb, cloves lightly crushed
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
330 ml (11 1/4 fl oz/1 1/3 cups) spruce or pine beer (see below*)
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) chicken or lamb stock (or however much will fit, reserve the rest)
For the gravy:
1 tablespoon cornflour (cornstarch)
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon red miso paste
Method
Preheat the oven to 140°C (275°F/Gas 1).
Turn the lamb shoulder skinside down and make 3 cm- (1 1/4 in-) deep incisions to create a large diamond grid pattern in the flesh. Take the anchovy paste and a tablespoon of the thyme leaves, mix them together and rub them into the incisions. Set aside.
Into the base of the roasting tray (pan), slice two-thirds of the potatoes and all the onions, evenly scatter over the garlic cloves and the remaining thyme leaves, season with half the salt and the pepper. Mix together with your hands, breaking the onions up into rings as you go.
Roughly smooth out the top of the potato mixture, add the beer and the chicken or lamb stock, then, with the remaining potatoes, make two neat overlapping rings, one inside the other on the top around the outside.
Put the lamb shoulder, flesh side down, in the middle of the potatoes and very lightly score the top in a smaller diamond grid pattern, literally just scratching the surface with the knife. Season with the remaining salt and pepper.
Put the lid/foil on and pop in the oven for 30 minutes.
Turn the heat down to 120°C (250°F/Gas 1/2) and cook for 5–6 hours. When the lamb is ready, you will be able to pull the shoulder bone out with little or no resistance.
At that point, lift the lamb out very carefully and place on a large plate, cover with kitchen foil and pop back in the oven.
Carefully pour off any excess roasting juices from the potatoes (it’s helpful to have an extra pair of hands for this if you can) into a large saucepan.
Turn the oven up to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6), take the lamb out and put the potatoes back in. Leave the lamb somewhere warm-ish to rest.
To make the gravy, mix the cornflour, soy and miso in a small bowl, add a ladle of the cooking juices and whisk together with a fork.
Add this mixture to any juices in the saucepan and allow to bubble gently over a low heat and reduce to your desired gravy consistency.
When the potatoes are browned, turn the oven off, crack open the door slightly, and return the lamb to the middle of the dish. Put your serving plates in to warm.
Cook whatever vegetables you require and bring everything to the table to serve.
* Spruce, juniper and pine beers can often be seasonal, so feel free to substitute a tripel, gently heated for a few minutes with some rosemary or pine/spruce tips and left to stand for 10 minutes
COOK
Williams Bros. Alba – UK
Finlandia Sahti – Finland
Pihtla Beer – Estonia
Pinta Koniec Šwiata – Poland
Rogue Yellow Snow Pilsner – USA

PAIR
Tripel Karmeliet – Belgium
Unibroue La Fin du Monde – Canada
Westmalle Tripel – Belgium
Wäls Trippel – Brazil
St Austell Bad Habit – UK
Extracted from The Beer Kitchen by Melissa Cole (Hardie Grant, £20) Photography © Patricia Niven

Warm lamb salad with a pea, mint & feta cheese dressing
A fabulously summery recipe from the very appealing Great British Farmhouse Cookbook - perfect for this time of year.
Unusually it's sponsored by a company - the enterprising Yeo Valley dairy in Somerset - but you don't find their branding all over the recipes which have been put together by Sarah Mayor, the Cordon-Bleu trained daughter of the company's founders Roger and Mary Mead and a farmer's wife herself.
Sarah writes: "We’re not normally huge fans of frozen veg, but with peas we make an exception. They’re normally frozen within minutes of being picked, so they’re actually far tastier than fresh peas that have been hanging around in the fridge for a while."
SERVES 6
1 x 2.5kg leg of lamb, butterflied
2 little gem lettuces, broken into leaves, washed and dried
1/4 cucumber, halved and thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE MARINADE:
6 tbsp olive oil
the leaves from 2 rosemary sprigs, finely chopped
the leaves from 2 large thyme sprigs, roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
finely grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
FOR THE PEA, MINT AND FETA CHEESE DRESSING:
3 small shallots, very thinly sliced
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1/4 tsp caster sugar
250g frozen peas
8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
the leaves from a 20g bunch fresh mint, chopped, plus extra
whole leaves for garnish
200g feta cheese, crumbled
FOR THE GARLIC AND MINT YOGURT:
250g wholemilk natural yogurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint
1. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a large shallow dish with 1 teaspoon each of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the lamb and turn it over in the mixture a few times until it is well covered. Cover and leave to marinate for at least 4–6 hours, ideally overnight.
2. To make the dressing, put the sliced shallots into a mixing bowl and stir in the vinegar and sugar. Set aside for at least 30 minutes so that the shallots can soften. Cover the peas with warm water and leave them to thaw, then drain well and set to one side. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6.
3. Pop a ridged cast iron griddle over a high heat until smoking hot, then lower the heat to medium-low. Lift the lamb out of the marinade, shaking off the excess, then place it on the griddle and cook for 5-7 minutes on each side until well coloured*. Transfer to a roasting tin, spoon over any remaining marinade and roast for 20-25 minutes. Transfer the meat to a carving board, cover with foil and leave to rest for 5-10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, tear the lettuce leaves into smaller pieces and scatter them over the base of a large serving platter along with the sliced cucumber. Mix the yogurt ingredients together and season to taste.
5. Add the oil to the shallots and swirl together. Stir in the peas and mint and season to taste.
6. Carve the lamb across into thin slices and pop it on top of the lettuce. Spoon over the pea and mint dressing, scatter over the feta and sprinkle with a few more small mint leaves. Eat straight away with the garlic and mint yogurt.
* the recipe doesn't state this but you could cook the lamb on a barbecue if you had a kettle-style barbecue
Suggested wine match: You could go several ways with this - a light red, a crisp white or a strong dry rosé. Red-wise that could be a Saumur Champigny or another Loire Cabernet Franc, a pinot noir or a juicy red like Mencia from the Bierzo region of northern Spain. Because of the yoghurt and spring vegetables a crisp white such as Sauvignon Blanc would work for those who prefer a white or a crisp dry rosé like Bandol from the South of France would also be delicious.
Extracted from Yeo Valley: The Great British Farmhouse Cookbook by Sarah Mayor (Quadrille £20). Photograph: Andrew Montgomery.
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