Curry leaf mussels and fries

This is such a simple, clever and inspired way to cook mussels - an exotic version of moules marinières which I couldn't resist as I love curry leaves too.

It comes from Ed Smith's book Crave which lists recipes that are likely to appeal depending on the mood you're in and the sort of flavours you're craving at any particular moment - fresh and fragrant, for example or rich and savoury.

Ed writes: Curry leaves tempering in hot oil is a top-five kitchen smell; my tastebuds become fully activated upon catching a whiff. Indeed, such is their instantly satisfying effect, it’s worth buying a packet or two if ever you see them – like chillies they store well in the freezer (and can be used straight from frozen).

Mussels in a creamy sauce carry the aroma particularly well. As it happens, they cook almost as quickly as the leaves, so this works well as a rapid response to a craving for spice. You could obviously drag bread through that sauce, but on this occasion I think a side of salty French fries works best (frozen fries for oven baking are perfect).

Serves 4 as a main course

1.5kg (6½ cups) mussels

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 medium onion or shallot, finely sliced

30g (1oz) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into fine matchsticks

1 tsp yellow mustard seeds

25–30 curry leaves (2 full sprigs)

2 cloves garlic, finely sliced

1 tsp ground turmeric

2 tsp ground cumin

½ tsp chilli powder

1 heaped tbsp tomato purée (paste)

100ml (scant ½ cup) cold water

300ml (1¼ cups + 1 tbsp) double (heavy) cream

Pinch flaky sea salt

Oven-baked French fries, to serve.

Purge (clean) the mussels by leaving them to soak in cold water for 20 minutes, lifting them out from the bowl after 10 minutes, discarding the dirty, gritty water and refilling it with cold water (and the mussels). Repeat this action 5 minutes later, and then again. Keep the bowl in the fridge during this time, save for the last soak, when you should pull out any straggly beards from the mussels (easier while they’re still under water). Discard any mussels that remain open when tapped. This can be done in advance, though you must store the mussels in the fridge until needed.

Cook your fries – I find they usually need a few minutes longer than the packet suggests.

When the fries are nearly done, choose a wide saucepan or wok with a lid that will fit the mussels in no more than three layers. Place this on a medium heat and add the vegetable oil. Let this warm for 30 seconds before adding the onions, ginger, a pinch of salt, the mustard seeds and curry leaves. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent the onions or leaves burning. Add the garlic and, 30 seconds later, the spices. Cook these for a minute, stirring frequently, then add the tomato purée.

After 1 minute more, increase the heat to high then add the water, cream and mussels. Stir the contents thoroughly, place the lid on top and cook for 3 minutes, shaking once or twice. If the mussels have not fully opened after that time, use a spoon to scoop them from the bottom of the pan to the top (so as to swap open with closed) remove from the heat but put the lid back on top for a further minute, leaving the remaining mussels to steam open. Discard any that refuse to open.

Ladle into bowls, ensuring everyone has a fair share of the glossy, fragrant and rust-coloured sauce, with piles of well-salted fries nearby.

What to drink: I'd really fancy a dry riesling with this but a crisp dry white like picpoul would also work as it does with other mussel dishes or, if you prefer a beer, a lager.

Extracted from CRAVE: Recipes arranged by flavour, to suit your mood and appetite by Ed Smith (Quadrille, £25). Photography: Sam A. Harris

Smoked trout with griddled lemon, cucumber & sourdough croutons

A fresh, simple, clever recipe for two from one of the most charming of last year's cookery books, Rosie Birkett's A Lot on her Plate

Rosie writes: "This dish, Scandinavian in tone thanks to the pickles and smoked fish, takes ingredients that you may have lying around – lemon, cucumber and bread – and transforms them into something special, by charring them to add a smoky dimension and intensify their natural flavours. I get my smoked trout from Mike Scott, the chef at Hackney’s wonderful Raw Duck restaurant, who smokes it himself at home, but this would work with any good-quality smoked fish, be it trout, mackerel or hot-smoked salmon.

Serves 2

1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar

1 tablespoon cider vinegar (get the good unpasteurised stuff if you can)

2 radishes, finely sliced

sea salt

2 baby or Lebanese cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise and halved across the middle

1 lemon, cut in half

1 slice of sourdough bread

6 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for grilling

2 tablespoons roughly chopped dill

2 smoked trout fillets, skin removed

borage flowers, to garnish (optional)

4 teaspoons plain natural yoghurt, to serve

Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar in a small bowl and quick-pickle the radish slices in the mixture.

Heat a griddle pan over a high heat until it’s stinking hot. Scatter with a pinch of sea salt. Brush the cucumber pieces, cut sides of the lemon and sourdough bread with olive oil and griddle for about 8 minutes, until there are black grill marks on them, turning the bread and cucumber over once.

When the ingredients are grilled, remove from the heat and squeeze the lemon juice into a bowl with the olive oil. Whisk with a fork, add the dill and a pinch of salt, and whisk some more, until well combined. Cut the sourdough into croutons.

Drain the radishes from their pickle liquor and place on kitchen paper to absorb the excess vinegar. Divide the cucumber between two plates and flake over the smoked trout. Top with the radish slices and drizzle over the dill and lemon oil.

Scatter over the sourdough croutons and borage flowers, if using, and finish eachserving with a couple of teaspoons of natural yoghurt.

What to drink: I think you want something equally fresh-tasting with this. A crisp dry white like a Picpoul or an Albarino would be good or try a (genuinely) dry young riesling

From A Lot on her Plate by Rosie Birkett (Hardie Grant, £25.00) Photography: Helen Cathcart. For more recipes see Rosie's website.