Essential steak sauce

From my cookbook Steak - now sadly out of print - a homemade alternative to demi-glace, a foolproof steak sauce that you can use on its own or as a basis for another dish such as bavette aux échalotes

Enough for 2-3 steaks

1 tbsp olive oil
15g (1/2 oz) butter
110g (4 oz) shallots or onion, peeled and roughly sliced
125ml (4 1/2 fl oz) red wine
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
150ml (5 oz) beef stock, fresh or made with an organic beef stock cube
1 tsp butter paste*
Salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce to taste

Heat the oil in a pan then add the butter. Once it has melted add the shallots, stir and cook for about 10 minutes until lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Add the red wine and balsamic vinegar, bring to the boil, turn the heat down and simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until the liquid has reduced by about three-quarters. Add the stock and simmer for another 5 minutes. Strain, return to the pan and whisk in the butter paste with a wire whisk. Bring back to the boil and simmer until thickened. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce if you think it needs it.

* to make butter paste mash together equal quantities of soft butter and plain flour until you have a smooth paste.

Strawberry tiramisu

This is a slight adaptation of a fantastic recipe from Italian cookery writer Valentina Harris which I first tasted on one of her cookery courses in Tuscany and included in my book Food, Wine and Friends.

Serves 6
400g (14 oz) ripe strawberries
5 hard amaretti biscuits
2 large eggs, separated
40g (1 1/2 oz) caster sugar
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
4 tbsp white rum
250g (9 oz) mascarpone cheese at room temperature
3 tbsp whipping cream
100 ml (3 1/2 fl oz) pressed apple juice
1/2 a 200g pack of savoiardi (sponge finger biscuits)

You will need a medium to large, deep glass bowl

Hull the strawberries. Weigh out 100g and chop them finely. Slice the remaining strawberries and set aside.

Put the amaretti biscuits in a plastic bag, seal then bash them with a rolling pin until they are the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs.

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl with electric hand held beater or a whisk until pale yellow and fluffy, gradually adding the caster sugar as you go. Add the vanilla extract and a tablespoon of the white rum.

Tip the mascarpone cheese into a large bowl, beat with a wooden spoon to soften then gradually add the eggs and sugar and beat until smooth.

In another bowl beat the egg whites until they just hold a soft peak.

Fold the chopped strawberries into the mascarpone cheese mixture, then carefully fold in the egg whites.

Whip the whipping cream to a similar consistency then fold that in too together with a third of the crushed amaretti biscuits.

Mix the remaining rum with the apple juice. Dip some of the biscuits in the apple-rum mixture and lay across the base of your bowl.

Reserving some strawberries for decoration, arrange a layer of sliced strawberries over the biscuits then cover with a layer of mascarpone cream. Repeat with one or two more layers of soaked biscuits, strawberries and mascarpone cream, finishing with the mascarpone cream.

Cover the bowl tightly with clingfilm and chill in the fridge for at least 5 hours. About an hour before you serve up sprinkle the remaining amaretti biscuits over the top of the trifle then decorate with the remaining strawberries. Return the tiramisu to the fridge until you’re ready to serve it.

Note: this recipe includes uncooked egg

What to drink: A well chilled glass of Moscato d'Asti would be perfect.

An early summer supper for six

An easy seasonal supper to make for friends, most of which is from my book Food, Wine & Friends. Instead of having a first course/appetizer hand round a selection of crostini with drinks then move on to the main course, an Italian-style roast that can be carved before you bring it to the table. An indulgent, creamy rhubarb and strawberry fool completes the meal though you could always serve a selection of goats’ cheeses as an alternative.

Pea and parma ham crostini

The new season’s pea crop is not quite available in the UK at the time I write but they have such a lovely spring-like flavour that it’s worth rustling up this fresh-tasting spread anyway.
Makes enough for 16-18 crostini

250g (9 oz) shelled fresh or frozen peas
2 spring onions
40g (1 1/2 oz) finely grated aged pecorino or parmesan
1 tbsp finely chopped mint or dill
2 tbsp fruity olive oil
Salt, freshly ground black pepper and lemon juice to taste
Crostini bases (see below)
125g (5 oz) finely sliced parma ham or other air dried ham, torn or cut into strips

Cook the peas in boiling water for 2-3 minutes or until just tender. Drain under cold running water. Trim and cut the onions in half lengthways then slice very finely. Put the peas and onions in a food processor and pulse till you get a chunky spread. Add the pecorino, mint or dill and pulse again then stir in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a good squeeze of lemon. Spread the mixture thickly on crostini bases and drape each crostino with a strip of hamTo make the crostini bases

Pre heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Take two ready to bake ciabatta loaves and cut on the slant into thin slices. Spray both sides with an olive oil spray or pour the olive oil on to two baking trays and dip the slices of ciabatta in it. Bake for 15 minutes, turning the slices half way through. Repeat with any remaining ciabatta slices. This will make enough bases for both recipes.

Ham and herb crostini

This delicate, very English-tasting spread is the perfect use for the remains of a boiled gammon or bacon joint - or make it from scratch with good quality ham cut off the bone
Serves 6

150g (5 oz) cooked smoked ham
150g (5 oz) unsalted butter at room temperature
1 1/2 - 2 tsp English or Dijon mustard
3 heaped tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 heaped tbsp finely snipped chives
White pepper and salt to taste

Chop the ham up roughly and process in a food processor until finely chopped. Dice the butter, add it to the ham and process until smooth. Add mustard to taste - about 1 1/2 - 2 tsp and enough water to make a spreadable consistency.

Transfer the spread to a bowl and stir in the finely chopped herbs. Season with white pepper and a little salt if you feel it needs it (it may well not if the ham is salty). Refrigerate for an hour or two to allow the flavours to develop then allow to come back to room temperature before spreading on crostini bases as above.

Tuscan-style roast veal with wild mushrooms

I ate a dish like this at Castello di Brolio in Tuscany and couldn’t wait till I got home to recreate it. It’s a brilliant dish to match with wine - light but intensely flavourful - the perfect match for a Chianti Classico riserva
Serves 6

1 kg (2.2lb) boned, rolled loin or rack of veal or pork (but ask the butcher to give you the bones)
3 tbsp olive oil
50g (2 oz) butter
1 medium onion, peeled and cut into 8
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into chunks
3 large cloves of garlic, peeled and quartered
3 sprigs of rosemary
250ml (9 fl oz) dry Italian white wine
250ml (9 fl oz) fresh chicken stock or light vegetable stock made with 1/2 an organic stock cube
150g (5 oz) wild mushrooms
1 dsp plain flour
A few drops of marsala or madeira (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

You will need a large deep lidded casserole

Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Pat the veal dry and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Put the casserole over a medium heat, add 1 1/2 tbsp oil, heat for a minute then add 15g butter. When the foaming dies down place the veal joint and the bones in the casserole along with the pieces of onion and carrot and brown on all sides, turning the meat, bones and vegetables regularly. Add the garlic and rosemary to the casserole, stir and add 3 tbsp of white wine. Put a lid on the casserole and transfer to the oven. Roast for about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours, checking every so often than the meat and vegetables aren’t catching and adding a little more white wine if necessary.

Remove the veal from the casserole and set aside on a carving dish. Cover lightly with foil and leave to rest for at least half an hour. Pour off any surface fat off the juices remaining in the casserole, add the remaining white wine and bring to the boil, working the tasty, stuck on caramelised juices off the sides of the casserole. Simmer and reduce by half, add half the stock and simmer for another 10 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Heat the remaining butter in a small frying pan and fry the mushrooms until the butter and any liquid have almost evaporated. Stir in the flour. Pour the strained stock over the mushrooms, bring to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Add a little more stock if the sauce seems too thick. Check the seasoning adding salt and pepper to taste and a dash of marsala or madeira if you think it needs a touch of sweetness.

Finely slice the veal, arrange in overlapping slices on a warm platter and spoon over the sauce and mushrooms. Good with roast new potatoes and roast or grilled asparagus. Or some buttered spinach.

Strawberry, rose and rhubarb fool

Rhubarb and strawberries have an extraordinary affinity and fortunately come into season at pretty well same time of year.
Serves 6

400g (14 oz) rhubarb
3 tbsp unrefined caster sugar
225g (8 oz) ripe strawberries plus a few extra for decoration
2-3 tbsp sirop de rose or rosewater and extra sugar
300ml (10 fl oz) Greek yoghurt
284ml (1/2 pint) carton whipping cream

Slice the rhubarb and put it in a saucepan with 3 tbsp of sugar and 2 tbsp water. Put a lid on the pan and heat over a low heat until the fruit comes to the boil then turn the heat down and simmer for 7-10 minutes until the fruit is soft. Tip the fruit into a sieve over a bowl and drain off the juice. De-stalk the strawberries, put 225g of them in a food processor or blender and whizz until smooth. Add the drained rhubarb and 1 tbsp of rose syrup or 2 tsp rosewater and 1 tbsp caster sugar and whizz again. Tip the pure into a bowl and leave to cool.

Tip the yoghurt into a large bowl. Whip the cream until just holding its shape and sweeten to taste with rose syrup or rosewater and sugar. Fold half the cream into the yoghurt. Fold half the pureed strawberry and rhubarb into the yoghurt and cream mix then lightly fold in the remaining rose-scented cream and remaining rhubarb and strawberry puree to create a marbled effect. Spoon the fool into individual glasses and chill until ready to serve. Slice the remaining strawberries and sprinkle with a few drops of rose syrup or a little sugar. Use the strawberry slices to decorate the top of each glass.

What to drink:
Any good quality crisp, dry white wine would work with the crostini. At this time of year I'd probably go for a Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or other unoaked or subtly oaked Sauvignon Blanc. With the main course I'd drink a Chianti Classico, as suggested.

The dessert is also easy to pair - any fresh, young dessert wine should work - a sweet Bordeaux, a Coteaux du Layon or a late-harvest Sauvignon for example. (Pick a wine with bright citrus flavours rather than apricot or peachy ones. So not a southern French muscat, I'd suggest)

Twice-baked goats' cheese soufflés

A classic starter from the ‘70’s but one that our customers seem to enjoy every bit as much today. This version originally came from a book called Take Twelve Cooks and was one of Pru Leith’s recipes. However Stephen Bull attributes it to Peter Kromberg of Le Soufflé at the Intercontinental who was also featured in the book . . .

Anyway the beauty of them is that they can be made a couple of days ahead or frozen (see below) which makes them ideal for dinner parties. (This also explains the slightly larger than usual quantity. It is a recipe that’s tricky to scale down so you might as well make a few extra while you’re at it, borrowing some extra ramekins or dariole moulds from a friend or neighbour if you don’t have enough!)

Serves 8-10

Ingredients
6 medium eggs
55g (2oz) strong Cheddar
55g (2oz) Gruyère
110g (4oz) goats' cheese (from a goats’ cheese log)
425ml (3/4 pint) whole milk
a slice of onion
a bayleaf
85g (3oz) butter
85g (3oz) plain flour
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
Salt, pepper, cayenne pepper and nutmeg

You will also need 8-10 individual ramekins, dariole moulds or ovenproof coffee cups, lightly buttered.

Method
I prefer to do the preparation and weighing of the ingredients first, then the job can be done as a continuous process without having to stop and start all the time. Separate the eggs - the whites into a bowl for beating later and the yolks for adding to the soufflé mix. Grate your Cheddar and Gruyère and cut the goats cheese into cubes. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5.

Next heat the milk up with a slice of onion and a bay leaf. In another pan melt the butter and add the flour to make a roux (thick flour and butter paste) then gradually beat in the hot milk, returning the pan to the heat after each addition until the mixture is thick.

When all the milk has been added let the mixture cook over a low heat for a few minutes then beat in the Cheddar and Gruyère. Now take the pan off the heat and season with the mustard, cayenne pepper, salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. The mixture needs to be quite highly seasoned because you are going to add a large amount of egg white.

Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then mix in the goats cheese. Beat the egg whites until stiff then fold them lightly but thoroughly into the soufflé base using a large metal spoon.

Fill the buttered ramekin dishes or moulds with the mixture to just below the rim of each dish then stand them in a roasting tin lined with a tea towel. Pour hot water into the tray just under half-way up and cook in the pre-heated oven for 20-25 minutes or until well-risen and set.

Allow the soufflés to cool a little before turning them out. (They will sink slightly but don’t worry!) You can keep them wrapped with cling film for a couple of days in the fridge and even freeze them. (You will need to defrost and unwrap them before heating them.)

To serve reheat them in a hot oven at 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 for up to 15 mins until well risen.

If I’m serving them with a salad I put them on baking parchment on a baking sheet otherwise I put each one into an individual serving dish with a little double cream poured over and a sprinkling of grated Cheddar or Gruyère cheese.

* For the salad I use some roasted beetroot, walnuts, mixed leaves and a spoonful or two of salad dressing.

What to drink: Although the recipe title refers to goats' cheese it's also got Cheddar and Gruyère in it so I'd be inclined to serve a Chablis or other unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay rather than a Sauvignon Blanc. A blanc de blancs Champagne or sparkling Chardonnay would also be delicious. FB