Recipes

Bayonne ham tart with garlic (Tarte au Jambon et à l’Ail)
A great recipe to make for any Bastille Day celebrations you might be having from Pierre Koffmann's fabulous Memories of Gascony, one of my all-time favourite cookbooks.
Tarte au Jambon et à l’Ail
serves 4-6
3 heads of garlic
50 g/2 oz duck fat
75 g/3 oz bayonne ham, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
200 ml/7 fl oz milk
2 egg yolks
2 slices of white bread, crumbled
freshly ground pepper
250 g/9 oz pâte à tarte (or shortcrust pastry)
Preheat the oven to 200ºC/400ºF/gas 6. Cut three 10 cm/4 in squares of foil.
Place a head of garlic and one-quarter of the fat in the middle of each square and wrap tightly in the foil. Place in a roasting pan and bake in the preheated oven for 20–25 minutes, until soft.
Heat the rest of the fat in a frying pan and quickly fry the ham for about 10 seconds on each side, adding the parsley at the last moment.
To make the custard mixture, mix together the milk, egg yolks and breadcrumbs and season with a little pepper. Place in the fridge until needed.
Roll out the pastry into a circle to fit a 20 cm/8 in flan dish and line the dish with the pastry. Bake blind in the preheated oven for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, unwrap and peel the garlic. Place it in the part-baked flan case together with the ham. Pour in the custard mixture and bake in the hot oven for 25 minutes.
Pierre suggests serving this hot but I think it would be pretty good at room temperature if you wanted to make it ahead.
What to drink: It would be rude not to drink a Gascogne wine with this wouldn't it? A fruity white Côtes de Gascogne I suggest, or a Gascogne rosé. Or , if you fancy a red, you could go for a Gaillac
From Memories of Gascony by Pierre Koffmann, published by Mitchell Beazley, £30 (www.octopusbooks.co.uk)

Warm lamb salad with a pea, mint & feta cheese dressing
A fabulously summery recipe from the very appealing Great British Farmhouse Cookbook - perfect for this time of year.
Unusually it's sponsored by a company - the enterprising Yeo Valley dairy in Somerset - but you don't find their branding all over the recipes which have been put together by Sarah Mayor, the Cordon-Bleu trained daughter of the company's founders Roger and Mary Mead and a farmer's wife herself.
Sarah writes: "We’re not normally huge fans of frozen veg, but with peas we make an exception. They’re normally frozen within minutes of being picked, so they’re actually far tastier than fresh peas that have been hanging around in the fridge for a while."
SERVES 6
1 x 2.5kg leg of lamb, butterflied
2 little gem lettuces, broken into leaves, washed and dried
1/4 cucumber, halved and thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE MARINADE:
6 tbsp olive oil
the leaves from 2 rosemary sprigs, finely chopped
the leaves from 2 large thyme sprigs, roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed
finely grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
FOR THE PEA, MINT AND FETA CHEESE DRESSING:
3 small shallots, very thinly sliced
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1/4 tsp caster sugar
250g frozen peas
8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
the leaves from a 20g bunch fresh mint, chopped, plus extra
whole leaves for garnish
200g feta cheese, crumbled
FOR THE GARLIC AND MINT YOGURT:
250g wholemilk natural yogurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint
1. Mix the marinade ingredients together in a large shallow dish with 1 teaspoon each of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the lamb and turn it over in the mixture a few times until it is well covered. Cover and leave to marinate for at least 4–6 hours, ideally overnight.
2. To make the dressing, put the sliced shallots into a mixing bowl and stir in the vinegar and sugar. Set aside for at least 30 minutes so that the shallots can soften. Cover the peas with warm water and leave them to thaw, then drain well and set to one side. Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6.
3. Pop a ridged cast iron griddle over a high heat until smoking hot, then lower the heat to medium-low. Lift the lamb out of the marinade, shaking off the excess, then place it on the griddle and cook for 5-7 minutes on each side until well coloured*. Transfer to a roasting tin, spoon over any remaining marinade and roast for 20-25 minutes. Transfer the meat to a carving board, cover with foil and leave to rest for 5-10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, tear the lettuce leaves into smaller pieces and scatter them over the base of a large serving platter along with the sliced cucumber. Mix the yogurt ingredients together and season to taste.
5. Add the oil to the shallots and swirl together. Stir in the peas and mint and season to taste.
6. Carve the lamb across into thin slices and pop it on top of the lettuce. Spoon over the pea and mint dressing, scatter over the feta and sprinkle with a few more small mint leaves. Eat straight away with the garlic and mint yogurt.
* the recipe doesn't state this but you could cook the lamb on a barbecue if you had a kettle-style barbecue
Suggested wine match: You could go several ways with this - a light red, a crisp white or a strong dry rosé. Red-wise that could be a Saumur Champigny or another Loire Cabernet Franc, a pinot noir or a juicy red like Mencia from the Bierzo region of northern Spain. Because of the yoghurt and spring vegetables a crisp white such as Sauvignon Blanc would work for those who prefer a white or a crisp dry rosé like Bandol from the South of France would also be delicious.
Extracted from Yeo Valley: The Great British Farmhouse Cookbook by Sarah Mayor (Quadrille £20). Photograph: Andrew Montgomery.

Barbecued Chicken with Yellow Mustard Sauce
If you fancy a proper US-style barbecue this weekend try this brilliantly easy recipe from chef Brad McDonald's book Deep South: New Southern Cooking
Brad writes: "You’re going to fall in love with this Carolina- style sauce. I really like its tanginess with the chargrilled chicken skin. It also stands up well to the charred spring onions, which make the perfect garnish for this dish. (Keep any left- over mustard sauce in the fridge – it’s great with sausages.)
Barbecued Chicken with Yellow Mustard Sauce
Serves 4–6
1 free-range chicken, about 1.5kg (3 1⁄4 lb)
100ml (3 1⁄2 fl oz) olive oil
50g (1 3⁄4oz) BBQ rub (see below)
12 spring onions (scallions), trimmed but left whole
a little vegetable oil
sea salt
For the yellow mustard sauce:
250g (9oz) French’s yellow mustard
120ml (4fl oz) cider vinegar
85g (3oz) light soft brown sugar
1⁄4 tsp paprika
1⁄4 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1⁄4 tsp cayenne pepper
1⁄4 tsp freshly ground
black pepper
First spatchcock the chicken: put it breast-side down on a board and, using a pair of poultry scissors, cut out the backbone. Turn the bird over and press down gently on the breast bone, then splay the chicken open. Season with salt on both sides. Make a paste with the olive oil and the BBQ rub and coat the bird all over with it. Leave to marinate for 3–4 hours or overnight.
Place the bird skin-side down on a barbecue grill and cook over a medium heat until tender and cooked through. Turn once and move to a lower heat if nec- essary to prevent scorching. If using a thermometer to check the temperature, pull the bird off the heat at 65°C/150°F. Leave to rest for 15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce: put all the ingredients in a pan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly with a whisk.
Toss the spring onions in enough vegetable oil to coat, then place on the barbecue and cook until lightly charred.
Carve off the chicken legs and thighs, then carve the white meat from the bone. Brush the sauce over the meat. Garnish with the grilled spring onions and serve with the rest of the sauce on the side.
For the rub:
125g (4 1⁄2 oz) paprika
15g (1⁄2 oz) onion powder
15g (1⁄2 oz) garlic powder
15g (1⁄2 oz) chilli flakes (red pepper flakes)
15g (1⁄2 oz) crushed black pepper
7g (1⁄4 oz) dried oregano
Mix everything together, use what you need for the recipe and keep the rest in a sealed jar
What to drink: Personally I'd go for a craft beer like a pale ale or IPA with this but you could go for a fruity red like a merlot, grenache or tempranillo or a not-too-oaky chardonnay if you prefer a white
From Deep South by Brad McDonald (Quadrille £25) Photograph © Andy Sewell

Beer-Can Chicken - the best way to barbecue a bird!
One of the recipes in my book An Appetite for Ale for which I have the greatest affection is Beer-Can Chicken. Actually, I say recipe, but it’s more like a technique.
The basic idea is to prop a whole bird on a beer can and barbecue it. Sound impossible? In fact it’s ridiculously easy.
The only slight snag is that you need a kettle-style barbecue with a high enough domed lid to take the bird upright. You’ll also need a medium sized chicken (about 1.3-1.5kg/3lb-3lb 5oz), a couple of teaspoons of a good quality spicy rub like a jerk or Cajun seasoning (I like the ones made by Seasoned Pioneers and the South African brand, NoMU) and a small 330ml can of beer. Which doesn't have to mean lager - there are loads of great beers in cans nowadays.
Rinse the chicken inside and out and dry it thoroughly with kitchen towel. Remove any surplus fat from the carcass and sprinkle the inside of the chicken with about 1 tsp of the spice mixture, rubbing it in well. Sprinkle another teaspoon or so of the rub over the chicken and rub that in too. Leave the chicken to marinate for half an hour or so while you fire up the barbecue.
Pour half the contents of the beer can into a glass (cook’s perk!). Lightly oil the can and lower the chicken onto the can so that it stands upright propped up by its legs. Set the can on the barbecue rack and cook over an indirect heat for about 50 minutes to an hour until the juices run clear when you pierce the leg with a skewer. Holding the can with a pair of tongs very carefully remove chicken from the can and set aside on a carving tray. Rest for 5-10 minutes then carve and serve with a barbecue sauce or a salsa.
The point about the whole exercise is that the beer creates steam inside the chicken making the flesh wonderfully moist and the fat runs down the skin, basting it and making it beautifully crisp. I promise you it will be one of the best chickens you’ve ever tasted!
What to drink: Given that you’ll probably be serving it with an assortment of salads and relishes I’d serve it with a robustly hoppy pale ale or IPA. Or a rum punch.
10 great beer and food matches for summer
Picture © Brent Hofacker

Courgette and feta fritters with yogurt
For those whose courgettes (zucchini) just won't stop producing here's the perfect way to use them from Tom Hunt's lovely book The Natural Cook.
Tom runs a restaurant in Bristol called Poco which is based on making the best of what's available in the market - they don't have a fixed menu just cook from what's good on the day. The book tells you how to do the same.
Tom writes: "These are a wonderful Greek classic. They are easy to make, incredibly moreish and keep well, so can be made ahead, then reheated.
Serves 4 as a starter
200g courgettes
extra virgin olive oil
1 spring onion, finely sliced
3 sprigs of dill, chopped
9 mint leaves, roughly chopped
70g feta, crumbled
1 small egg, lightly beaten
2 tbsp plain flour
6 courgette flowers (optional)
light olive oil
80g Greek yogurt, to serve
For this recipe, pick the very freshest, crispest courgettes. Give them a wash, take a box grater and turn it on its side. Run the courgette along the grater, creating long strings of it. Keep going until the courgette loses its rigidity, then finely slice the leftover piece with a knife.
Spread the courgette spaghetti on a clean tea towel and leave for five minutes, then fold the tea towel on top and pat it dry.
Transfer to a bowl and add the rest of the ingredients, except the courgette flowers (if using), oil and yogurt.
Mix well and season with pepper; you probably won’t need much (if any) salt, as the feta is salty. If you have courgette flowers, stuff them with some of the mixture. Place a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat with a glug of light olive oil. Drop a small piece of the courgette mixture into the pan to test if it is hot enough: when it sizzles, the pan is at the right temperature.
First fry the stuffed courgette flowers, if you have them. Then drop large tablespoons of the rest of the mixture into the pan. Whether cooking flowers or fritters, allow them to colour to a light brown on one side, then flip and colour on the other.
When cooked, remove from the pan and rest on a clean tea towel or kitchen paper to absorb excess oil.
Serve with Greek yogurt, or make tzatziki by adding a little finely chopped cucumber, crushed garlic, extra virgin oil, lemon juice and seasoning to it.
What to drink: These need something light and fresh - and following Tom's philosophy, local. A crisp English white wine, a dry cider, or homemade lemonade would all be good choices in Bristol. Elsewhere think Sauvignon Blanc, Portuguese Vinho Verde or a dry rosé. Or a witbier.
Extracted from The Natural Cook by Tom Hunt (Quadrille, £20). Photograph: Laura Edwards.
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