Recipes

Plum and Frangipane Tart
If you feel like baking this weekend here's a recipe from Christine McFadden's massively useful book Flour, a guide to how to use all the many new flours on the market.
I particularly like the fact that it's billed as an ingredient book rather than a gluten-free book which emphasises the fact it's about taste and texture rather than any particularly dietary regime.
This recipe is made from pea flour. Christine writes:
"Yellow pea flour makes the most beautiful melt-in-the-mouth pastry. It’s gluten-free and wonderful to work with. Crimson plums set off the rich yellow colour. The idea for the filling came from my food writer friend Lesley Mackley, who does a lovely version with pears instead of plums.
Serves 6–8
vegetable oil for greasing
6 ripe red plums
caster sugar for sprinkling
4 tablespoons melted quince, redcurrant or apricot jelly, to glaze
for the pastry
160g (5¾oz) yellow pea flour
2 tablespoons icing sugar
100g (3½oz) cold unsalted butter, roughly chopped
1½ tablespoons thick plain yogurt
1½ tablespoons beaten egg
for the frangipane
75g (2¾oz) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
125g (4½oz) caster sugar
1 large egg, organic or free range
1 large egg yolk, organic or free-range
1 tablespoon brandy or amaretto liqueur (optional)
125g (4½oz) ground almonds
First make the pastry. Sift the pea flour and icing sugar then tip into the bowl of a food processor. Add the butter and pulse briefly until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs. Add the yogurt and egg, then pulse in short bursts until the mixture begins to clump. Be careful not to overwork the dough.
Tip the dough on to a well-floured surface. Roll into a ball, then flatten into a 12cm (4½in) disc, ready for rolling out. Wrap in greaseproof paper and chill for 30 minutes.
For the frangipane, beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl with an electric whisk for a few minutes until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in the whole egg, followed by the yolk.
Finally add the brandy, if you’re using it, and the ground almonds. Mix well to combine, then set aside.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Put a baking tray in to heat. Grease the base and sides of a 24.5x2.5cm (9¾x1in) fluted metal tart tin, making sure the sides are well lubricated. Line the base with a circle of baking parchment and grease the paper too.
Once the dough is chilled, remove from the fridge. Dust your work surface and rolling pin with flour. Roll out the pastry to a thin 30cm (12in) circle. Carefully drape it over your rolling pin and lower it into the tin. Press the side of your index finger into the edge to even out the thickness. Trim the top with a small sharp knife. Spoon the frangipane into the pastry case, smoothing the surface with a spatula.
Slice the plums in half lengthways and remove the stone. Slice each half lengthways into four segments. Starting from the outer edge of the tart, arrange a double row of overlapping segments in four north-south-east-west ‘spokes’, leaving a quadrant of uncovered frangipane between each spoke. Make an attractive rosette of slices where the spokes meet. Sprinkle the plums with caster sugar.
Bake for 35–40 minutes, rotating the tin halfway through. Cover the edges with foil if they brown too much. Remove from the oven and leave to settle in the tin for 20 minutes.
Carefully ease the tart out of the tin and slide on to a serving plate. Brush with the melted jelly and serve warm or at room temperature.
What to drink: a simple fruit tart like this is a good foil for a wide variety of dessert wines. I'd go for a sweet Bordeaux like Sauternes or a similar one from one of the neighbouring appellations - Monbazillac is particularly good value.
Extract taken from Flour by Christine McFadden (Absolute Press, £26) out now
Photography © Mike Cooper

Coconut & Mango Yoghurt Cake
Rukmini Iyer's 'Roasting Tin' series has been a huge success so the sweet-toothed among you will be thrilled that there's now a book devoted to desserts and cakes - The Sweet Roasting Tin. I chose this recipe on the grounds that it would double as either. I reckon it would be a particularly good finale to a curry night.
Rukmini writes: I" ate three slices of this cake standing up at the counter the first time it came out of the oven – it’s that good. The yogurt, along with the desiccated coconut, makes this a wonderfully light sponge under the roasted mango; I’d consider serving it for breakfast."
Serves: 8
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 30–35 minutes
120g natural full-fat yogurt
50ml coconut oil, melted
150g soft light brown sugar
3 medium free-range eggs
120g desiccated coconut
50g plain flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 ripe mango, chopped into 1cm chunks
Preheat the oven to 160C fan/180C/gas 4. Whisk the yogurt, coconut oil and sugar together until pale and fluffy, then beat in the eggs one at a time.
Gently fold in the desiccated coconut, plain flour and baking powder, taking care not to overmix. Spoon the batter into a lined 20cm x 26cm roasting tin.
Scatter the chopped mango all over the batter – don’t worry if it looks like a bit too much for the cake, the cake will rise up around it.
Transfer to the oven for 30–35 minutes, until firm to the touch and a skewer inserted into a non-mango bit comes out clean.
Leave the cake in the tin for 5 minutes, then gently lift it out on to a wire rack and leave to cool briefly before serving warm or at room temperature.
Any leftovers should be stored in the fridge: you can gently warm the slices in the microwave as needed.
FOR GLUTEN-FREE: substitute the plain flour for a good brand of gluten-free blended flour (I like Freee self-raising flour from Doves Farm).
FOR DIABETICS: substitute the soft light brown sugar with 75g xylitol.
What to drink: If you're feeling indulgent a glass of Sauternes or similar sweet Bordeaux would be delicious with this. Or, a late harvest sauvignon blanc. See also The best wine pairings for mangoes and mango desserts
Extracted from: The Sweet Roasting Tin (One Tin Cakes, Cookies & Bakes) by Rukmini Iyer (Square Peg) September 2021, £18.99. Photography by David Loftus

Curried cauliflower cheese filo pie
Nothing is as exciting as a new Ottolenghi cookbook but I particularly love the approach of Shelf Love on which he’s collaborated with Noor Murad and the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen team. It's the first in a series of OTK books which are designed to be easy and versatile (they recommend alternative ingredients if you don't have the ones in the recipe)
I’ve already had the chance to taste a couple of recipes friends have made but this cauliflower cheese filo pie has my name all over it. Yours too, hopefully!
Curried cauliflower cheese filo pie
Cauliflower cheese, but make it pie. This dish was once described as ‘molten-hot-cheese-lava’ and we think that’s pretty fitting for the ultimate comfort of comfort foods.
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 1 hour 45 minutes
Serves 4, generously
1 large cauliflower, trimmed and cut into bite-size florets (700g)
2 tsp mild curry powder
3 tbsp olive oil
100g unsalted butter, 50g cut into roughly 3cm cubes and 50g melted
75g plain flour
675ml whole milk
2 garlic cloves, crushed
11/2 tbsp English mustard
150g mature cheddar, roughly grated
6 sheets of good-quality filo pastry (we use feuilles de filo)
salt and black pepper
1 tbsp roughly chopped parsley, to serve
11/2 tsp lemon zest, to serve
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan. Line the bottom and sides of a 23cm springform cake tin with baking parchment.
2. Put the cauliflower on a large, parchment-lined baking tray and toss with the curry powder, half the oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, until cooked through and lightly coloured. Set aside, and turn the oven temperature down to 170°C fan.
3. Meanwhile, make the béchamel. Put the cubed butter into a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat and, once melted, whisk in the flour and cook for 1–2 minutes – it should start to smell nutty (like popcorn). Turn the heat down to medium and slowly add the milk a little at a time, whisking continuously to prevent any lumps, until incorporated and the sauce is smooth. Cook, whisking often, for about 7 minutes, until thickened slightly. Off the heat, stir in the garlic, mustard, cheese and 1/4 teaspoon of salt until the cheese has melted.
4. Keep your filo sheets under a damp tea towel to prevent them from drying out. In a bowl, combine the melted butter and the remaining 11/2 tablespoons of oil and keep to one side.
5. Working one sheet at a time, brush the exposed side of the filo with the butter mixture and drape it into your prepared tin (buttered side up), pushing it down gently to fit. Continue in this way with the next filo sheet, brushing it with butter and then laying it over the bottom sheet, rotating it slightly so the overhang drapes over the sides at a different angle. Do this with all six sheets. (There's a really good step by step series of pictures illustrating this in the book)
6. Spoon half the béchamel into the base and top with the roasted cauliflower florets. Spoon over the remaining béchamel, then crimp up the overhang so that it creates a messy ‘scrunched-up’ border around the edges, leaving the centre of the pie exposed.
7. Brush the top of the filo border with the remaining butter mixture, then transfer the tin to a baking tray and bake for 30 minutes.
8. Using a tea towel to help you, carefully release the outer circle of the springform tin and return the pie to the oven for another 20–25 minutes, or until the sides are nicely coloured and everything is golden and bubbling. Leave to settle for 15 minutes.
9. Top the pie with the parsley and lemon zest and serve warm.
What to drink: I’d go for a crisp Italian white wine like a Falanghina with this though a not-too-fruity dry Alsace, Austrian or German riesling would work well too.
Extracted from Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love by Noor Murad and Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press, £25) All photography by Elena Heatherwick

Poppycooks' Bacon-y Garlic-y Potato-y
Given TikTok megastar Poppy O'Toole (aka @poppycooks) passion for potatoes I really had to pick a potato recipe from her fab new cookbook Poppy Cooks so here is the recipe she calls Bacon-y Garlic-y Potato-y - which really does what it says on the tin.
Bacon-y Garlic-y Potato-y
Okay. This is my official statement on achieving the perfect potato dish: bacon, garlic and potato are the ménage à trois that is out here changing lives. It’s the modern-day throuple that’s right every time. Unless you’re veggie, that is – in which case, this dish is still a stand-out with just the garlic.
Serves 4
The core
1 recipe quantity of Cheese Sauce (see below)
For the gratin
4 large potatoes, peeled, and sliced into 5mm-thick (2 inch) rounds
1 tsp salt, plus extra to season
200g/7oz smoked bacon lardons
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and roughly chopped
100g/3.oz cheddar, grated
black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/Gas 6.
2. Tip the spuds into a large saucepan and just cover with water. Add the salt and place over a high heat. Bring to the boil, then cook for about 7 minutes, until tender.
3. Drain the potatoes in a colander, then suspend the colander in the potato pan and cover with a clean tea towel for about 5 minutes, until the potatoes have steamed off and dried out a bit.
4. While the spuds are boiling, add the lardons to a cold frying pan and place over a medium heat. Fry for about 6 minutes, until cooked through and golden. Remove the lardons from the pan and set aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper.
5. Tip one third of the spuds into a medium ovenproof dish, spreading them out in an even layer. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle over one third each of the garlic, rosemary, lardons and cheese. Top with a good ladleful of cheese sauce (if it’s been chilling in the fridge, you may need to spread it out a bit) and repeat twice more (potato, garlic etc, cheese, sauce), until the dish is full and you’ve finished with a final sprinkling of cheese. Bake for 30 minutes, until golden and a bit crispy on top. Dig in!
Cheese Sauce
It ends here. No more packet cheese sauces. It is literally so easy to make your own (it’s just the béchamel with cheese in it) and I promise you’ll be able to tell the difference. Forget the powdery texture and the 10,000 unknown ingredients that you just ignore on the packet. You know everything going into this baby, and it’s all good stuff. Good stuff = good sauce.
Serves 4-6 (depending on how you use it)
500ml/2 cups whole milk
50g/2oz butter
70g/2.oz plain flour
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
200g/7oz your choice of cheese, grated (I’d go for cheddar and double Gloucester, but a traditional mornay sauce usually just has gruyère in there)
1. Pour the milk into a medium saucepan and place it over a medium heat for 7 minutes, until warmed through. Set aside.
2. Place a second, smallish saucepan over a low–medium heat. Add the butter and allow it to melt. Then, using a spatula or wooden spoon, gradually beat in the flour, about a tablespoon at a time, until you have a thick paste. You don’t want the paste to start browning – if you’re worried just take the pan off the heat to slow things down a little as you add.
3. Once all the flour is in, cook, stirring, until you have a dough-like consistency and the paste is coming away from the sides of the pan.
4. Little by little, add the warmed milk, making sure you allow the first addition to fully incorporate into the paste before adding more. Keep mixing to avoid lumps – switch to a whisk if you need to.
5. Once all the milk is in and you have a smooth, thick sauce, season with the salt and nutmeg.
6. Now, simply add your cheese and stir to melt in and combine for the perfect cheesy sauce! If you’re not using the sauce straight away, transfer it to an airtight container (leave it to cool before you put the lid on). You can store it for 3 days in the fridge and 3 months in the freezer.
What to drink: I'm not sure how much of a wine dish this is but a Chablis or lightly oaked chardonnay would work pretty well. Or a Belgian-style blonde ale like Leffe.
From Poppy Cooks by Poppy O'Toole published by Bloomsbury at £20.

Two great prawn recipes to grill on the BBQ
Talking to food writers Helen Graves and Genevieve Taylor about recipes that might get beginners - particularly women - into barbecuing they both came up with one based on prawns, aka shrimp. Both are super-easy.
Genevieve's prawn, chorizo and ciabatta skewers
The spicy oil from the chorizo soaks into the bread so it grills up to be deliciously crisp and tasty. Keep the bread cubes fairly generous so they will be less likely to fall off the skewers.
Makes 6
6 thick slices ciabatta
2 tbsp olive oil
200g (7oz) raw peeled prawns (shrimp)
125g (4 1/2oz) dried chorizo, cut into 5mm (1/4in) discs
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
a handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 lemon, quartered
You will also need 6 metal skewers.
When you are ready to cook, fire up your barbecue ready for direct cooking.
Cut the bread into cubes a similar size to the diameter of the chorizo and put in a bowl. Drizzle in the olive oil. Add the prawns (shrimp) and the chorizo and a good grind of salt and pepper then toss to mix. Thread onto skewers, alternating between bread, prawns and chorizo.
Lay the skewers directly over the fire and cook them for 3–5 minutes, turning regularly, until the prawns are pink and cooked through and the bread is crisp. If the bread is catching too quickly, move the skewers slightly further away from the fire to cook more gently.
To serve, scatter over the parsley and squeeze over the lemon. Eat while hot.
Credit: Foolproof BBQ by Genevieve Taylor (Quadrille, £12.99) Photography ©Jason Ingram
Helen's prawns with smoky chilli salt
For 2 people
12 large king prawns, shell on
1 smoky dried chilli, such as a jalapeno or ancho
A couple of pinches of flaky sea salt
1 lemon, cut in half
Light the barbecue for direct cooking.
Toast the chilli in a dry frying pan until fragrant - a few minutes. Remove the stalk and blitz in a spice grinder or smash it up in a pestle and mortar. Combine with the sea salt and set aside.
When the BBQ is ready, toss your prawns in a little oil but don’t season them.
Cook them over direct heat for a couple of minutes each side, or until totally pink and cooked through.
Cook the lemon cut side down over the hottest part of the BBQ until it’s lightly charred.
Serve the cooked prawns with the caramelised lemon and the chilli salt, for dipping.
Recipe and photography ©Helen Graves. You can find more of her recipes on her blog Food Stories
What to drink: Although these recipes have different seasoning they'd both go with a crisp citrussy white. I'd probably pick an unoaked white rioja or Rueda with Genevieve's recipe and an albarino or an assyrtiko with Helen's.
Latest post

Most popular

My latest book

News and views



