Recipes

Baked polenta with feta, béchamel and za’atar tomatoes
Ring the changes with this brilliant homemade alternative to a takeaway pizza from Ottolenghi and Noor Murad's book Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, Extra Good Things
"It’s not a pizza, insisted Noor, when referring to this baked polenta which does in fact look like a giant pizza. It ended up with multiple names at the Test Kitchen such as ‘polenta-pizza’, ‘polizza’ or ‘polenta not-a-pizza’. It really is a happy-looking pie with its yellows and reds and wonderfully golden edges. Serve with a chicory salad or anything leafy and green. You can keep this gluten-free by swapping out the flour for gluten-free flour, if you like."
Serves 4-6
Prep time 15 minutes
Cook time: 1 hr 30 minutes
80g unsalted butter
50g plain flour
750ml whole milk
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
200g quick cook polenta
65g pecorino romano, roughly grated
180g Greek feta, roughly crumbled
5g oregano sprigs (try to use the softer sprigs)
Za’atar tomatoes
400g datterini or cherry tomatoes
120ml olive oil
1 1/2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 tbsp za’atar
1/2 tsp caster sugar
5g parsley roughly chopped
5g oregano leaves, roughly chopped
Salt and black pepper
- Preheat the oven to 150°C fan
- Make the za’atar tomatoes. Put the tomatoes, oil, vinegar, garlic, 1/2 tsp salt and a good grind of pepper into a medium baking dish, roughly 30cm x 20cm. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 40-45 minutes, stirring halfway through or until the tomatoes have just burst but aren’t completely falling apart. Remove the foil, gently stir in the za’atar and sugar and leave to cool completely. Once cool, stir in the herbs (gently so as not to break up the tomatoes).
- Turn the heat up to 230°C fan (if your oven will go up that far. I’d need to use another setting on mine FB). Line a large baking tray roughly 40 x 30cm in size with baking parchment.
- Put 40g of the butter into a medium saucepan over a medium high heat. Once melted, add the flour and cook, whisking continuously for 30 seconds or until it smells like popcorn. Slowly pour in 350ml of the milk, whisking continuously to avoid any lumps, then add the garlic, 1/2 tsp of salt and plenty of pepper, turn the heat down to medium and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often until quite thick and no longer floury-tasting. Set aside and cover with a piece of baking parchment to stop a skin forming.
- Meanwhile prepare the polenta by first putting the remaining 400ml of milk, 300ml of water, 20g of the butter, 1 1/4 tsp of salt and a good grind of pepper into a medium sauté pan or saucepan over a medium high heat. Once it gently bubbles, turn the heat down to medium-low, slowly add the polenta, whisking continuously to incorporate and cook for 2 minutes to thicken. Add the pecorino and the remaining 20g of butter and stir with a spatula until incorporated. Quickly transfer to your prepared baking tray and spread out in a large oblong shape about 1cm thick and 38cm in length. Spoon over the bechamel and spread it so it covers the surface, leaving a 1 1/2 cm rim exposed around the edges. Top evenly with the feta and the oregano sprigs and bake for 22 minutes or until golden and bubbling on top and starting to brown round the edges. Leave to cool for 5-10 minutes.
- Spoon about half the za’atar tomatoes on top of the baked polenta, serving the rest in a bowl alongside. Use a pizza cutter to easily cut into slabs and serve warm
What to drink: A light juicy Italian red like a young chianti or rosso di montalcino or a mencia, cinsault or pais.
Extracted from Ottolenghi Test Kitchen Extra Good Things by Yotam Ottolenghi and Noor Nurad published by Ebury Press at £25, Photograph © Elena Heatherwick.

Chicken and cucumber salad with pul biber and tahini lime dressing
Anyone who is a fan of Sabrina Ghayour will be thrilled that there's a successor to her best-selling book Persiana. Actually there have been several but this one relates back directly with a collection of easy, but supremely tasty family-friendly recipes.
This is for anyone who loves a chicken salad which certainly includes me.
Sabrina writes: "Although I love salads, for me they need to have bags of flavour and tick many boxes. Fresh, zingy, crunchy, sometimes sweet and spicy – I always need a salad to be a filling meal in its own right.
This stunner using leftover chicken is a nod to chicken satay salads but using the Middle Eastern staples of tahini and cucumber, and we Persians have an unhealthy obsession with cucumber!
It really is refreshing and full of flavour – perfect for sharing, or not…
SERVES 2–4
1 large cucumber, peeled and cut into thin batons or strips using a vegetable peeler
2 cooked chicken breasts, shredded (or use chicken thigh or leg meat)
3 spring onions, thinly sliced diagonally from root to tip
1 teaspoon pul biber chilli flakes
handful of salted peanuts or cashew nuts
handful of fresh coriander leaves
Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
1 heaped tablespoon tahini
juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 heaped teaspoon clear honey
Arrange the cucumber, chicken and spring onions on a large platter and season with a little salt and pepper.
Mix all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl and drizzle over the salad.
Sprinkle with the pul biber, scatter over the nuts and coriander leaves and serve. This needs no accompaniment.
What to drink: I'd probably go for an off-dry white like a pinot gris or riesling with this. Or a viognier FB
Persiana Everyday by Sabrina Ghayour is published by Aster (£26). Photography by Kris Kirkham

How to cook grouse
You might be daunted at the idea of cooking grouse but it's a great treat for a small dinner party.
If you haven't cooked it before try this reassuringly simple recipe from chef Stephen Markwick with whom I collaborated on his book A Well-Run Kitchen
Roast grouse ‘traditional style’
Once the first grouse arrive this means my favourite time of year from a cooking point of view is just around the corner. I find it hard to decide whether grouse or mallard (for which there is a recipe in
A Very Honest Cook) is my favourite bird but there is undoubtedly something very special about grouse. We serve it 'traditional style' - on a croute spread with its own cooked liver, bread sauce, crab apple or redcurrant jelly, game chips and a little gravy and it is absolutely delicious.
For the restaurant we buy the grouse ‘long legged’ which means they are plucked but not drawn. This determines the gaminess of the bird as the flavour develops if the guts are left in. You might not want to do this and it is easy to buy the birds oven-ready but do have the liver too!
Serves 4:
Ingredients
4 grouse (1 per person) including their livers
4 sprigs thyme
75g (3oz) butter
6 rashers of streaky bacon (1.5 each)
50ml (2 fl oz) dry sherry
300ml (1/2 pint) well-flavoured meat or game stock
Salt and pepper
For the bread sauce:
425ml (3/4 pint) milk
half an onion, roughly chopped
4 cloves
1 bayleaf
110g (4oz) fresh breadcrumbs
50g (2oz) butter
1 tbsp double cream
salt, pepper and nutmeg
For the game chips:
3-4 good size Maris Piper potatoes
salt
To serve
1 bunch of watercress for garnish
4 slices of white bread for the croutes (remove the crusts and cut the bread into a square or circle)
Crab apple jelly or redcurrant jelly
Method
Like most roasts that come with their own special accompaniments the order you cook things is key. The grouse itself doesn’t take long so you can get ahead by making the bread sauce and game chips in advance (see below) and part-cooking any vegetables. (We like to serve it with red cabbage).
To cook the grouse preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Put a roasting tin in the oven to heat, ready to take the grouse. Season the birds well inside and out with salt and pepper and place a sprig of thyme and a knob of butter in the cavity of each bird.
I like to start cooking the grouse in a frying pan on top of the stove: heat the pan, add a tablespoon of oil and a good slice of butter. Brown well on all sides before turning the birds breast side upwards and covering them with the streaky bacon.
Smear some more butter over the bacon, place in the hot roasting tin and put the tin in the pre-heated oven. Cook for approximately 12-15 minutes basting with the butter at least twice during that time. (If you don’t want to brown the bird first you can just put it straight in the oven but allow another 10 minutes cooking time.)
Grouse should be served rare. You can tell whether they are cooked by presssing the breasts with your finger. They should be springy. If they’re too soft, cook for a couple of minutes more.
It is very important to rest the birds in a warm place for 10 minutes before serving as it lets the meat relax and the juices set.
While the grouse are resting deglaze the roasting tin with the sherry and good quality stock and reduce to a rich gravy.
Fry the croutes in the butter you used to roast the birds. The livers can be fried in this too. (In the restaurant I tend to do this in advance, having chopped the liver first, then I mix it with a little chicken liver pat because the flavour of grouse liver can be quite strong.)
To serve: Put the grouse back in the oven for a minute to warm up. Spread your croutes with the liver paste and put one on each plate. Sit the grouse on top. Garnish with lots of watercress and serve the other accompaniments in separate dishes.
Bread sauce
Heat the milk gently with the chopped onion, cloves, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Once it is at simmering point (but not boiling) take off the heat, cover with cling film and leave to stand for half to three quarters of an hour to infuse the flavours. Strain the milk into another pan, place it over a low heat and whisk in the breadcrumbs. Add the butter, check the seasoning and add a little grated nutmeg and a dash of cream.
Game chips
You might just prefer to buy good quality crisps but in the restaurant I make my own! You need a good chipping potato like Maris Piper. Peel them, slice thinly on a mandolin and rinse well in cold water. Dry with a tea towel before cooking in batches in hot oil (160°C-170°C). Move the crisps around constantly while you fry them. They should take 3-4 minutes. Once they’re golden lift them out with a slotted spoon, drain them on kitchen paper and sprinkle lightly with salt.
What to drink: Red burgundy is the traditional match for grouse but there are of course other options. See my latest thoughts here

One tin cream tea
I would never in a million years have come up with the brilliant idea of baking a scone in a single tin as Great British Bake Off winner Edd Kimber has done in his book One Tin Bakes but then all the recipes can - miraculously - be cooked like that. I can't quite bring myself to call it a slab scone though which doesn't make it sound nearly as enticing as it is. So I've renamed it One tin cream tea (sorry, Edd!).
Edd writes: British folk can’t agree on how to correctly pronounce the word scone or even whether the jam or cream should go on first, so this slab scone will be sacrilege for some, but I love it, as it turns a dainty afternoon tea staple into a perfect summertime dessert.
Of course, I have kept the clotted cream, it is after all one of the best tasting things in the world. For the topping, however, I have lightened it up a tad using fresh macerated strawberries with a little hint of vanilla instead of the more traditional jam.
If you can’t get clotted cream you can also use mascarpone or whipped cream, but just do me one favour, if there is clotted cream available that is made in Devon and you’re not in the UK, then don’t buy it, it will have been sterilized and pasteurized and the flavour is a shadow of the real deal and not worth the disappointment.
SLAB SCONE
SERVES 8–10
FOR THE SLAB SCONE
500g (1lb 2oz/4 cups) self-raising flour, plus extra for dusting
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
50g (1 ¾ oz/ ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
finely grated zest of 1 large lemon
150g (5.oz/1â…“ sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and diced
120ml (4fl oz/1/2 cup) whole milk, plus a splash for the egg wash
4 large eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons demerara sugar
FOR THE TOPPING
400g (14oz) fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
25g (1oz/â…› cup) caster (superfine) sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste
340g (11 ¾ oz) clotted cream
Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas Mark 5. Line the base of the baking tin with a strip of parchment paper, so some excess hangs over the longer side of the tin.
For the slab scone, mix the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and lemon zest together in a large bowl, then rub in the butter until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs with a few larger pieces remaining. Make a well in the middle and pour in the milk and three of the beaten eggs, stirring to form a soft but not sticky dough.
Tip the dough out on to a lightly floured work surface, press or roll into a 23 x 33cm (9 x 13in) rectangle and transfer to the prepared tin. Beat the remaining egg with a splash of milk to form an egg wash, and brush over the top of the scone, then sprinkle liberally with the demerara sugar.
Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside to cool completely in the tin.
Meanwhile, prepare the topping. Place the strawberries intoa large bowl and sprinkle over the sugar and vanilla, stirring together briefly. Leave to macerate for 30 minutes–1 hour, until the sugar has dissolved.
Once cool, remove the scone from the tin, spread the clotted cream all over the scone and then top with the macerated strawberries, drizzling with the syrup that is left in the bottom of the bowl. Cut into portions and serve.
This slab scone is best served on the day it’s made, soon after assembling.
What to drink: Well given that it's essentially a cream tea, a good cuppa, obviously but you could push the boat out and drink a moscato d'asti, an off-dry sparkling rosé or an 'extra-dry' prosecco which, curiously is sweeter than the 'brut' versions.
One Tin Bakes by Edd Kimber is published by Kyle Books. Photograph © Edd Kimber

Honey pastries with baked figs
I love this Spanish twist on baklava from José Pizarro's gorgeous book Andalucia - it would make the perfect end to a summer meal.
José writes: "This is my kind of dessert – packed with interesting flavours, and a stunning centrepiece for the table. It’s hard to beat roasted figs, bursting with sweetness straight from the oven, with just a touch of soft goat’s cheese and honeyfor balance.
NOTE: CONTAINS NUTS
Serves 10–12
125 g (4 ½ oz/2⁄3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50 ml (2 fl oz/ ¼ cup) honey
½ teaspoon orange blossom water
225 ml (7 ½ fl oz/scant 1 cup) water
150 g (5 oz) mixed nuts such as walnuts, almonds, pistachios, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
100 g (3 ½ oz) unsalted butter, melted
6–8 sheets of filo pastry
For the figs
8 ripe figs, halved
good drizzle of honey
4 tablespoons Pedro Ximenez sherry
handful of flaked almonds, toasted
To serve
creme fraiche (optional)
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4).
In a small saucepan, melt the sugar, honey and orange blossom water with the water, then simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, until slightly reduced and syrupy.
Mix the chopped nuts with the cinnamon. Lightly grease an 18–20 cm (7–8 in) square shallow tin with a little of the melted butter. Lay a sheet of filo in the bottom (trim if necessary) and brush with the butter, scatter with the nuts then add another layer of filo and melted butter.
Repeat 4 times, ending with a final layer of filo. Butter the top generously and use a sharp knife to cut into diamond shapes. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until golden and crisp.
Spoon half of the cooled syrup over the pastries as they come out of the oven. Let stand for 5 minutes, then spoon over the rest of the syrup. Allow to cool completely in the tin.
As the pastries are cooling, place the figs in a small baking dish and drizzle with honey and sherry. Bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes until tender. Serve the pastries with the baked figs and a dollop of creme fraiche, if you like.
What to drink: Although you could drink sherry with this I personally think it would be too much of a good think and would go instead for a Spanish moscatel or other muscat-based dessert wine.
From ANDALUSIA: Recipes from Seville and beyond by José Pizarro (Hardie Grant, £26.00) Photographer: Emma Lee
Latest post

Most popular

My latest book

News and views



