Pairing Errazuriz wines at Pollen Street Social

New world wines are sometimes criticised (usually by the French!) for overwhelming subtle Michelin-starred food but award-winning blogger Jeanne Horak-Druiff of Cooksister found much to admire when she attended an Errazuriz food, wine and photography evening at Pollen Street Social.

"We kicked off with three amuse-bouches on which to practise our smartphone photography" Jeanne reports: "soft cooked Italian egg with tomato fondant, mushroom purée, potato foam and bacon powder, venison terrine crostini and a spoonful of lobster, apple, fennel and avocado which went particularly well with the Errázuriz Aconcagua Costa single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc we’d been handed on arrival - the food brought out a pronounced gooseberry flavour in the wine which was quite delicious.

This was followed by another round of amuse-bouches consisting of puffed pork skin with seaweed salt, parmesan biscuits with smoked tomato chutney and fennel seed crackers with ricotta - with the intensely flavoured biscuits and smoky chutney being my runaway favourite.

With our delicately beautiful starter of Colchester crab salad rolls with coriander pineapple, shiso leaf, compressed fennel and espelette pepper we sampled the 2013 Aconcagua Costa Sauvignon Blanc again (13% alc, RRP £12.49) - a clear pale yellow with a hint of green; a rich nose of gooseberries, cut grass and green tomato; and a palate of tropical fruit (guavas, passion fruit) but well balanced by good structure and acidity and

Aconcagua Costa single vineyard wild fermented Chardonnay 2011 (13.5% alc, RRP £15.99). This wine spent 10 months in oak and it certainly shows in the rich golden colour! I loved the opulent nose of apricot and creamy vanilla scents and the rich mouthfeel. Nevertheless, the palate is not over-oaked nor as overwhelmingly creamy as the nose might suggest but rather balanced and elegant with notes of citrus and minerality to match the ripeness.

The Chardonnay was definitely my favourite match with the crab rolls, having enough complexity to stand up to the more strident flavours of the dish without overwhelming the more subtle ones.

For our main course we had perfectly pink Lake District rack of lamb, a fritter of braised lamb shoulder, fregola pasta in basil, olive powder, artichokes and more of that fabulous smoked tomato chutney. To match this, we tried two of the estate's reds:

· Aconcagua Costa wild fermented Pinot Noir 2011 (13.5% alc, RRP £24.00). An odd, slightly foxy or wild nose, but with good colour for a Pinot Noir, the wine was less full-bodied than I had expected, with a subtle spiciness soft tannins. It made a good match for the lamb though, emphasising the subtle gamey notes in the meat.

· Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Syrah 2011 (14% alc. RRP £19.99) This was by far my favourite red wine of the night with its deep inky purple colour and rich dark berry nose reminiscent of Ribena for grown-ups. The palate was equally lush and appealing, full of the autumnal flavours of ripe blackberries and blackcurrants, but with soft vanilla notes and hints of Christmas spices with a long finish. For me, though, this was a sipping wine rather than a food wine as food took the edge off the lush fruitiness and made the finish seem shorter.

With our cheese course of three cheeses (a Camembert-style cheese, a hard cheese along the lines of a Comté, and a third creamy soft cheese) together with crackers and homemade chutney we were served two of the estate's premium red blends:

· Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve 2008 - 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc 6% Syrah (14.5% alc. RRP £50). This was in total contrast to the heavy, perfumed Syrah - a far lighter colour and palate full of ripe red berries as opposed to dark berries, with peppery notes and lovely balanced tannins. It seemed a lighter wine than the Syrah, despite its higher alcohol and although I liked it, I did not think it was a great match for the cheese, which seemed to emphasise the wine's acidity.

· Kai Carmenère 2010 - 96% Carmenère, 4% Petit Verdot (14.5% alc. RRP £90) This had a deep, velvety purple colour and a nose with vegetal hints but also dark red fruits and fig preserve. On the palate, there were grippy tannins and good structure with restrained fruit and flavours of Christmas cake. I found this to be an outstanding match for the cheese which seemed to bring out lovely fresh fig and peaty whisky flavours in the wine. Lovely as it was, I do have to wonder who this wine is aimed at, with a price tag of nearly one hundred pounds?

As we sat around finishing the last of the wine, we were served a wonderfully light and refreshing dessert of mandarin sorbet topped with yoghurt cream and kafir lime shavings; and those of us who had the shortest journey home and could afford to linger the longest were also rewarded with glorious little warm financiers with a centre of raspberry jam, fresh from the oven."

To read about the food photography element of the evening with photographer Paul Winch-Furness read the second part of Jeanne’s report here.

DISCLOSURE: Jeanne attended this event as a guest of Errázuriz Estate and R&R Teamwork. All opinions are her own.

10 food-friendly wines from The Beautiful South

Wine writer Matt Walls picks out his favourite wines from Chile, Argentina and South Africa from last week's Beautiful South tasting

"I’m in a restaurant, I’m in a hurry, so I don’t have time to look at the whole wine list. It’s laid out by country of origin, so I’m forced to generalise somewhat. Do I turn straight to Chile? How about Argentina? South Africa? Well I suppose it depends what I’m eating... but it’s unlikely I’ll turn to any of these countries first. It’s not that they don’t make good wines, or that I don’t enjoy them – it’s just that when I’m looking for wines to go with food, they’re not usually my first port of call.

If I’m looking for a wine to match with my lunch or dinner, there are a few criteria I’ve got in mind. I’m looking for refreshment, balance, and something that will work in harmony with the food – so usually something savoury, and not too intensely flavoured. These are things I’ve more commonly found elsewhere – often in wines from countries with cooler climates, which push acidity and tannin to the fore, rather than fruit and flavour.

The Beautiful South tasting at Olympia in London last week brought together over 300 producers from South Africa, Chile and Argentina all in one place. It was the perfect opportunity to hunt for food-friendly wines to see if I’ve been missing out. Here are 10 wines that stood out for their food-matching versatility.

Argentina

Argentina does power with aplomb. Surging Malbecs and impressively concentrated Cabernets are still the rule it seems. But when it comes to food, what do you match them with? They stomp all over everything but the most powerfully flavoured dishes. And sadly in the UK we can’t all eat two steaks a day.

I was on the lookout for more refreshing, lighter styles. These were still the exception, but I enjoyed the Viñalba Patagonia Reservado Malbec 2012 from Rio Negro (14.5%, £12.99, Buckingham Schenk). Patagonia is a region shared by Argentina and Chile in the cooler, southern end of South America. Compared to their standard Malbec, it was lighter, with less noticeable alcohol and more acidity making it feel less intense but more drinkable.

The Achaval Ferrer ‘Finca Bella Vista’ Malbec 2008 from Lujan de Cuyo (14.5%, £69.80, Hedonism Wines) also hails from a cooler region, but it’s not just this that provides its finesse, lightness and spice. The vines are over 100 years old and give exceptionally low yields (it takes three plants to make a single bottle of wine). European Brand Manager Jevgenijs Suscinkis explains this helps them “try to balance the power of South America with the elegance of Old World wine” – and I’d say they’ve succeeded. This is a brilliant Malbec – but it had better be at nearly £70 a bottle. Both this and the Viñalba are relatively versatile and would work with fillet steak as well as fattier cuts of beef.

Even among the whites competitive bodybuilding is still in evidence, but the Terrazas de los Andes ‘Terrazas Selection’ Torrontés 2011 from Salta, (13.5%, Hailsham Cellars, £11.49 for the 2010) was restrained, refreshing and displays plenty of citrus flavours alongside its classic floral aromas. Dry and well balanced, it would work brilliantly with aromatic spices and seafood – a Thai green curry with king prawns would be ideal.

South Africa

From the start I suspected South Africa would be a fruitful hunting ground for fresher, more drinkable wines – and it didn’t disappoint. The cooler coastal areas such as Walker Bay, Overberg and Elim are brimming with exciting wines.

Cederberg’s new Ghost Corner ‘The Bowline’ Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2012 (13.5%, £17.95, Bancroft Wines) uses fruit from cooler Elim and is well worth checking out. A blend of 52% Sauvignon and 48% Semillon, this thrilling wine has a sappy citrusy tang, vibrant intensity and a long balanced finish. It would pair well with simply cooked sea bass with a salsa verde.

For dry, savoury, mineral Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, Crystallum have no weak links in their range. Their ‘Clay Shales’ Chardonnay 2012 from Overberg (13%, winedirect.co.uk, £23.95) is particularly fine. It’s an intense and focussed wine with a long mineral finish, given roundness by even-handed use of oak. This Burgundian-style Chardonnay would give many village Puligny-Montrachets a run for their money. Try it with roast chicken with lemon and tarragon.

Swartland may not be a cool climate area, but sea breezes create marked differences between day and night temperatures which help give fragrance and balance to the wines. The medium-bodied, peppery Mullineux Syrah 2011 (13.5%, Handford Wines, £19.99) is quite simply a brilliant wine. Dry, savoury, measured and fresh, it would go well with a simply cooked rack of lamb with green beans.

Chile

Chile for me was the big surprise of the tasting. It’s blessed with a huge variety of different terrains, and increasingly extreme areas are being planted, sometimes with extraordinary results.

Tabalí is based in coastal Limarí, an area which is getting attention for the quality of its lean, mineral Chardonnays. Talinay is the name of their new range of wines, this time planted even closer to the sea (just 12km) on 100% limestone. Their Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are both very good, but their Pinot Noir 2011 (14%, Stone Vine & Sun, £15.75 for the 2010) in particular is worth tracking down. It has an attractive wild strawberry nose, a firm, dry, intense finish and just enough fat to place it in the New World. A versatile wine for food – great for game birds.

A little further south in Aconcagua is San Antonio, another cool climate coastal area that is coming out with some restrained, pure, fresh whites and reds. Matetic ‘EQ’ Syrah 2011 (14%, winedirect.co.uk, £16.95 for the 2010) is made here, and it was the best Chilean Syrah I tasted. Medium-bodied, with a soft silky texture, superfine tannins, bright acidity and fragrant red and black berry fruit, this would be a great match with lamb, sirloin, or other fatty red meats.

Another good tip for finding freshness is to look south – far from the equator so naturally cooler. Sebastian De Martino of De Martino Wines aims to make “gastronomic wines” from his holdings in Itata. His ‘Viejas Tinajas’ Muscat 2012 (13%, Les Caves de Pyrène, £11.52) is fermented in large earthenware amphoras with six months of skin contact. The result is a highly individual wine showing beeswax, lanolin and dried apricots on the nose, but with enough acidity and florality to keep it fresh and lively. It would be lovely served with guinea fowl with wild mushrooms.

Cono Sur claim to be the biggest single producer of Pinot Noir in the world. But it’s their snappily titled Single Vineyard Block 23 Rulos del Alto Riesling 2012 (13.5%, £11.80, New Street Wine Shop) that caught my eye. From Bio-Bio, even further south than Itata, this clean, dry Riesling had concentrated satsuma and lime skin flavour and would be a great match with a crab and grapefruit salad.

Overall I was impressed by the value for money displayed by many of the wines coming out of Chile and South Africa. Although the more subtle, leaner styles that I was looking for aren’t always the cheapest on offer, their prices compare favourably with a similar level of quality in France or Italy.

As all three countries explore new regions, and the newly planted vines mature, hopefully we will see an increasing focus on how their wines match with food. Sebastian De Martino explains “there’s a trend towards cool climate, but not necessarily towards food-friendly wines”. Thankfully, from what I tasted, the two go hand in hand.

Matt Walls writes about wine, runs tastings and works with restaurants to create wine lists. He blogs at www.mattwalls.co.uk and tweets @mattwallswine.

10 Australian Shiraz - and Shiraz blends - that might surprise you

Although there’s still plenty of the rich, lush style of Shiraz we’ve come to associate with Australia there’s more than one style as I discovered on my recent trip. If you like more restrained, even funky syrahs, Australian producers can deliver. Unsurprisingly many of them are organic or biodynamic and made with a minimum of sulphur. Most are from cooler vineyards. Take your pick . . .

Battle of Bosworth Puritan Shiraz 2011 (on UK shelves from March/April. about $20-22 in Australia)
If you’re going to the Bibendum tasting this week you’ll be able to taste this electric young syrah from Joch Bosworth’s (right) organically run vineyard. No oak, no sulphur, designed for early drinking. "We wanted to make a fresh, vibrant Spanish ‘Joven’ style of Shiraz ready for opening and enjoying immediately" he explains. He has.

Bobar Syrah 2009, Yarra Valley. Excel Wines has the 2010 at £120.20 for 6 bottles. £20.25 St. Clair & Galloway Fine Wines, Bognor Regis. £24.99 The Smiling Grape, £28.50 Green & Blue. Australian suppliers are on to the 2011 vintage.
More in the funky natural wine vein this won’t be to everyone’s taste and I suspect will be more susceptible than most to the day on which it’s tasted and the conditions under which it’s been stored and transported. I tasted it at a dinner at the Healesville hotel and it was delicious with a really fresh, mineral, spicy character. Unfined and unfiltered. The current 2011 vintage is only 12.5%

Castagna Adams Rib 2008 Nebbiolo/Shiraz, Beechworth £23.50 St. Clair & Galloway Fine Wines, Caves de Pyrène
I mentioned Julian Castagna’s Genesis Syrah in my Guardian article because that’s the wine that’s most widely available but I also loved this perfumed, supple Nebbiolo blend with its lovely bitter twist - the perfect wine for drinking with Italian-style grills and roasts. There's also a cracking Syrah/Sangiovese called Un Segreto at same price as the Syrah ($75 in Australia)

Clonakilla Hilltops Syrah 2009, Canberra NSW. £14.99 West Mount Wine £18.50 Fortnum & Mason slurp.co.uk has the 2010 at £16.95, $25 in Australia
Not a producer I visited but one of the best examples of new wave Aussie shiraz that you can find on the shelves at a reasonable price though it no longer seems to be available from Waitrose. More in the classic lush style but with real finesse.

Eastern Peake Walsh Block Syrah 2008, Victoria N/A in UK, $35 in Oz
I tasted this at the end of a long wine bar crawl with Max Allen at Gerard’s wine bar in Melbourne so can’t vouch for the accuracy of my tasting notes but remember finding it wonderfully fragrant, spicy and smoky. And delicious with fresh mozzarella and smoked tomatoes.

Jamsheed La Syrah 2010 N/A in UK, $20 in Australia
A bright, breezy young syrah sourced from 4 different vineyards in the Yarra Valley. 50% new oak, unfiltered, unfined “my take on Crozes - a good young quaffing syrah” says winemaker Gary Mills who worked for 2 years for Ridge in California. “A lot of the time we used to mimic South Australian shiraz. The best now comes off cooler sites.”

Ngeringa J.E.Syrah 2009* imported by Caves de Pyrène. £17.25 www.scc-finewines.co.ukaround £106.60 a case of 6 from Excel Wines, around $25 in Australia
Another bright syrah - or ‘bright and chirpy’ as Erinn Klein (right) from this biodynamic producer in the Adelaide Hills puts it. They compare the fruit to Schwetchen plums - I thought the predominant note was black cherry with a good kick of spice. Either way it’s delicious - as is the more expensive Ngeringa Syrah (about £35 here, $50-60 in Australia)
* pronounced neringa

Paxton Quandong Farm Shiraz 2009 McLaren Vale £18.90 Fareham Wine Cellar, £19.99 Cadman Fine Wines, £20.45 Noel Young Wines, £22.95 Jeroboams
I mentioned Paxton’s AAA shiraz/grenache in my Guardian column this week but I really like this scented, floral, almost violetty shiraz too which comes from a single biodynamically farmed vineyard. Shows McLaren Vale fruit can have finesse as well as weight.

Ruggabellus Archaeus 2009, Barossa N/A in UK, 40AD
One of three blends of grenache mataro and shiraz from Eden Valley which were released to rave reviews and sold out within six weeks. A fascinating insight into what young producers in the Barossa are doing - aromatic, spicy and peppery. “We use no new oak and pick early looking for vitality, crunch and intrigue” says winemaker Abel Gibson.

The Yard Riversdale Shiraz 2010 Frankland River, Larry Cherubino. N/A in UK, around $35 in Australia from March
If you want to get an idea of what Western Australia’s Frankland River is capable of look out for this sensuously soft, natural tasting shiraz with a lovely structure that Cherubino suggests drinking with duck, French-style roast lamb or spiced meatballs with rosemary. The secret? "We don’t make shiraz outside the Great Southern - Margaret River is too maritime for shiraz" he claims.

You might also be interested in two other wines I mentioned in my column, First Drop's Mother's Milk Shiraz 2009 (£14.99, The Secret Cellar, Tunbridge Wells; £15.03, The Sampler, London SW7; £15.99, Cambridge Wine Merchants) and Picardy Shiraz (£22, auswineonline.co.uk)

So what IS a food-friendly wine?

People in the wine trade often talk about ‘food friendly wines’, a term so vague you might wonder what on earth it means. Surely all wines are designed to go with food? Is it supposed to be a criticism or a compliment?

It could be either. There is a class of wines that don’t taste particularly impressive on their own but spring to life when paired with food. They’re the polar opposite of those show wines that do well in competitions but can be quite overwhelming to drink on their own or with a meal.

I had one the other night, a 2002 Antonin Rodet Santenay Les Rousseau a leftover sample which had been on sale in Tesco at £12.99, not expensive for a Burgundy but overpriced for the quality it delivered - or so I thought on first sip. It was thin and lacking in fruit and had none of that silky texture you look for in Burgundian Pinot Noir.

Then I tried it with a simple dish of roast chicken and it was transformed. The fruit was enhanced and the wine suddenly perfectly in balance. It still wasn’t by any means a great wine but it tasted twice as good as it had done on its own.

Another example I tasted yesterday was a 2006 Bourgogne Aligoté from Michel Bouzereau (£9.95 from Lay & Wheeler), a very grown up version of what used to be a searingly sharp wine but still quite austere. And wonderful, I would predict, with seafood.

Other examples are Picpoul de Pinet from the south of France and the stylish Spanish white Albariño, both wines wine that work with a wide range of fish and vegetable dishes, Côtes du Rhône Villages - a ‘take me anywhere’ red that seemingly goes with everything from soups to stews (and, usefully, a wide range of cheeses) and dry rosé, which may well account for its dizzying popularity.

What these wines have in common is that they neither have intrusive tannins or excessive levels of alcohol. They generally have an above average level of acidity. They may not blow away your guests the way a showier wine would but their very neutrality makes them easy to match. There’s a place for them in every cellar.