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Italian beer and food matching at Tozi
Sophie Atherton reports on the introduction of a new range of 'birra artigianale' (craft beer) at ciccetti restaurant, Tozi.
If you hear the words 'Italian beer' and immediately think of Peroni you need a wake-up call. The country now has in excess of 700 breweries, but in the UK Italian beer is apparently rather hard to find. What it clearly needs is a leg up from the Italian restaurant industry, which in turn needs someone to lead the way.
I may have found just the place, Tozi Restaurant and Bar, a stone's throw from Victoria Station. I was invited there a few weeks ago to taste a range of beers recently added to its drinks list, paired with a selection of 'cicchetti' dishes (the Venetian answer to tapas I'm told) from its regular menu.
It's always pleasing to encounter a restaurant prepared to embrace beer and food matching, even more so if it will be available to all and not just as a one-off to woo beer writers. The pairings were put together by importers, Beers from Italy and Italian beer sommelier Jacopo Mazzeo with input from Tozi head chef Maurilio Molteni - whose pedigree includes a stint at Shoreditch House as well as working with Antonio Carluccio.
All the beers used were from the same brewery, Birrificio Opperbacco, of Notaresco, Abruzzo an area better known for wines than for beer.
The first pairing was 4punto7 (4.7%) with two dishes, a salty but delicious calamari and roast fennel, carrots, beans and spelt salad. The persistent floral and bready aroma of the beer was almost a meal in itself. Less sweet than its fragrance suggested but with a floral quality and gentle dry finish, even after the first sip I was already mentally ordering another. Sadly the salty coating of the calamari overwhelmed the beer (despite the obvious intention that it would complement the calamari's sweetness and refresh the palate after the batter) but happily it worked much more harmoniously with the salad where the strong herbal character of the dish met the flavour of the beer as an equal.

Next came a beer called Tripping Flowers (6.1%), its bottle evoking the 1960s and hinting at the reason for its name. A saison, a style of beer now typified by a certain kind of yeast rather than its origins as a strong spring brew kept to quench the thirst of farm labourers in Belgian Wallonia, it was flavoured not just with hops but also roses and almonds. Snappily dry, as a good saison should be, there were notes of honey and lemon and an aftertaste of light-coloured dried fruits. Once paired with a heavenly crab ravioli with tomato and basil its floral flavours came through along with a zesty, hoppy tang in a match that proved it's possible to effectively pair beer with tomato sauce based dishes.
This point was emphatically brought home by the next pairing. Eipiei (6.3%) - pronounced IPA! - with aubergine parmigiana. The beer is Opperbacca's take on a US-style West Coast IPA, full of zesty, grapefruity hops and packing quite a bitter punch. The bitterness perfectly complemented the chargrilled skin of the aubergine and the beer became light and moussey, refreshing the palate ready for the next rich cheesy, tomatoey mouthful. It was this point in the meal where I decided I could just live at Tozi and never go home.
One always has to come down from a peak though and although L' Una Rossa (6.4%) smelled of cherries and tasted of roses it couldn't save me from the pungent aroma of black truffle on top of a buffalo ricotta ravioli. At the risk of sounding a churlish philistine the smell reminded me of laundry day and the pairing didn't do the beer justice, reducing it to bubblegum and pear drops. With pork cheeks, cavolo nero and mashed potato though the beer sang and revealed spicy aniseed and coriander flavours.
The delight of Testun al Barolo, a semi hard cow and goat cheese wrapped in a layer of nebbiolo grape husks, paired with a strong IPA called Triplipa (7.8% above) in a match which tasted like a sophisticated cheese and pineapple stick, and a finale of Dieci e lode (10%) a hefty quadruple style brew full of plummy, liquorice flavours matched with a coffee and amaretto bonet (a dessert from Piedmont) effectively erased my moment of black truffle-loathing and left me with a strong desire to return to Tozi with all my friends. Which is, coincidentally, how its name translates.
Sophie Atherton is a freelance journalist and Beer Sommelier with her own blog A FemALE view on beer. She ate at Tozi as a guest of importers Beers from Italy.

Moncada Brewery Notting Hill Red
This week I took part in a fun new way of discovering beer: Beer Bods live Twitter tastings and this was the beer we tried this week.
The ingenious idea is to encourage beer drinkers to experiment more by sending them a case of 12 bottles (not free, obviously - the quarterly subscription is £36). You then drink one of the beers each week at a suggested time (9pm on a Thursday evening) and compare notes on Twitter.
There’s also background on the beer you’re tasting on the site which revealed that Moncara was founded by a young Argentinian, Julio, who fell in love with British beer when he came to the UK as a student.
I must say they couldn’t have started with a better beer than the Notting Hill Red for me. It was deliciously full-flavoured (6%), fruity and refreshing with a good hit of American hops and an appealing herbiness. I could imagine drinking it with ‘asado’, Argentina’s much revered barbecue, especially their spicy garlicky sausages. And, of course, a steak.
Interestingly the beer is also ‘natural’ - i.e. they do not use any cask finings, a process that removes yeast particles but also strips out flavour, giving the beer more of a cloudy appearance than most commercially produced beers. They also recycle the by-products of the brewing process: the spent cereal goes to one of the farmers at the local farmers’ market, the hops are composed at a local wildlife garden and some of the yeast goes to a local baker.
The only downside I can see is that you wouldn’t necessarily be around every Thursday but you can still read the story behind the beer and check out what people have been saying about it on the site. (You hashtag your tweets #beerbods.) Interestingly not everyone liked the beer as much as I did - some found it too strong.
You can buy the beers through BeerBods during the week following their featured slot: Notting Hill Red is on sale until next Thursday - or maybe Wednesday - at 12 bottles for £30.
Incidentally BeerBods is a successful crowd-funded project (through crowdcube.com) which hit its initial £100,000 target in 24 hours. I think it’s a really clever idea and an ideal way of helping people like me discover new brewers. It would make a great gift for any beerlover.
Disclosure: I received a free three month subscription from Beer Bods to try out the scheme

So you want to be a microbrewer . . .
A friend of mine’s brother in law apparently wants to take up brewing so I thought I’d ask Twitter for advice. As usual, people were fantastically helpful and gave so many good recommendations I thought I’d post the advice here together with a few links I unearthed myself:
Do some home brewing
Recommended by most including @broadfordbrewer. (I think he already does)
@sky_larking recommended Andy Hamilton in Bristol who runs homebrew classes
There’s a new craft brewing school called Learn2Brew in Essex run by beer educator Nigel Sadler, who also works as operations & commercial Manager of a microbrewery
And there’s a useful article on home brewing here
Do a stint in a microbrewery
Could be that they’ll appreciate an extra pair of hands
@andywilliamsoak recommended the Tiny Rebel Brewing Company in Newport and @chefmpennington the wonderful new Wild Beer Co near Shepton Mallet in Somerset. (If you could brew like them you'd be laughing.)
Go on a course
@3friendsbrewery, @brewdogJHLondon, @grainbrewery and @redemptionbrew recommended Brewlab in Sunderland which has a 3 day ‘Start-up brewing’ course specifically for people who are thinking of starting up their own microbrewery.
@francesbrace suggested Campden BRI in Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire which has a similar course for £540 plus specific courses on subjects such as brewery microbiology and beer taint.
The World Brewing Academy runs a seven week master brewing course in Chicago (thanks @questiolina and @billsimpson19) The Siebel institure one of the partners in that collaboration also runs its own shorter courses, including some online courses.
The School of Artisan Food, recommended by @jessicasneddon, doesn’t seem to have one currently on brewing although it has done in the past and may again. It does however have an introduction to artisan cider-making
and an update: Hartingtons School of Food in Bakewell now runs 2 & 3 day courses on setting up a microbrewery as of October last year. (See comment below)
There’s an international list of courses on the Brewers’ Association website here
Go to college
Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh has an International Centre for Brewing and Distilling which offers honours and masters degrees in brewing and distilling. They also offer short courses and workshops
Nottingham University offers an MSc in Brewing Science and short courses
and the University of Sheffield runs an MSc in Microbrewing in the department of in the Department of Molecular Biology and Biotechnology
And read . . .
@redemptionbrew recommends Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head’s Brewing up a Business. @ArborBrewerJon suggests The Microbrewer's Handbook by Ted Bruning.
There’s also a useful article on tastingbeers.com how to set up your own microbrewery here
If you have any other suggestions or tips, particularly for readers outside the UK, do post them below

Which beer to drink on New Year’s Eve?
If you’re planning to toast the new year with a beer rather than a glass of champagne which one should it be? A quick Twitter survey revealed a whole raft of interesting options
Many went for the nearest the beer world has to offer - a celebratory ale: Adnams Sole Bay in the case of Adrian Tierney Jones (@atjbeer), Deus (@hautcedre) and Malheur Brut - the choice of beer writer Pete Brown (@petebrownbeer)
Others felt strongly it should be a local beer from a brewery they already patronise. As Chris King of @NorthernWrites aptly put it “something you love, something you know. Amount of times I’ve saved a big bottle for NYE and it’s been naff/drain pour” while beer writer Melissa Cole @melissacole clearly had her eye on going down her local. “Doubtless something by London Brewing Co @Bull_Highgate”
Of the beer styles available stout and imperial stout were popular as perhaps more surprisingly was gueuze though there was, of course, a contingent which favoured hugely popular IPAs and pale ales.
For a party Ben McFarland and Tom Sandham of @thinkingdrinks were planning "@MeantimeBrewing imperial pilsner & @thornbridge Jaipur".
And my own choice? Most probably @wildbeerco's Ninkasi (along with beer bloggers Boak & Bailey) though I do have a couple of handsome full-sized bottles of Italian beers (below) from Mastri Birrai Umbri which we didn’t get round to on Christmas Day - a doppio Malto and a Birra Speciale Rossa which I’ll report back on when we drink them.

Here’s the full list: (Thanks, Twitter!)
@petedrinks Will definitely be having some of my own Coffee Porter, to start but for midnight, I might crack open a

Craft beer and BBQ
Although I regularly recommend wines to pair with barbecue - most recently in my Guardian column - I’m actually an equal fan of beer. In fact I think many types of barbecue work better with it.
It appears that a majority of you agree. Craft beer came out top in a straw poll I put up on my Facebook page last week with almost twice as many votes as the most successful style of wine, a gutsy shiraz. You have to allow, of course, that beer fans are always more ready to fight their corner than winelovers but still . . .
So what kind of beer? It depends who’s coming and what kind of barbecue it is. If it’s all about the event - just a relaxed cook-up for family and friends I’d say the emphasis should be on a beer that’s refreshing and by that I don’t mean an ice-cold flavourless lager (not a popular choice in my poll).
If you’re looking for something different why not try a cloudy witbier or wheat beer, maybe even with a slice of lemon as they serve it in Lille or a citrussy single hop beer made from citra hops. Those would also work well with a seafood barbecue. A seasonal summer beer would be a good one to kick off with too.
For a real crowd-pleaser I’d pick a hoppy IPA, my favourite match with pulled pork and sausages. Amber ales and lagers are also good all-rounders and a saison or saison-style beer should impress any beer geek - a good match for beer-can or barbequed chicken.
With American-style barbecue like slow-cooked ribs or brisket I’d prefer something darker. A brown ale, a dark lager, a stout, porter or even an on-trend black IPA. And if you like to ramp up the smoky flavour you could try a smoked beer but that might be a little too much of a good thing.
You might notice that I’ve mentioned almost every style of beer. The message? Beer goes with barbecue. Period.
Image © saschi79 - Fotolia.com
If you don't agree - or want some wine options - see my article on which wine pairs best with barbecue.
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