What are the best wine matches for shellfish?

Shellfish and wine is one of the happiest of marriages: the one making the perfect foil for the other. Whether it’s a few oysters or an opulent lobster thermidor you need an accompanying glass to enjoy it fully.

It is, however, one of those areas of food and wine matching where it’s easy to get into a bit of a rut so I called up award-winning cookery writer Mark Hix (at the time executive chef of two of London’s most popular and glamourous seafood restaurants J. Sheekey and Scott’s* to run through a few options with him.

The great thing about Mark as a chef is that he respects his ingredients He might tweak a sauce to give it an extra edge but he won’t mess with a recipe for the sake of it. He’s also, as co-author of ‘The Simple Art of Marrying Food and Wine’ quite eclectic in his wine choices being as comfortable with new world wines as with the classics.

Scott’s, as you’d expect, sells a great deal of expensive white burgundy but interestingly quite a wide range of bottles you wouldn’t anticipate. “We have a band of die-hard seafood lovers who are prepared to be quite adventurous” revealed general manager Matt Hobbs. “We’ll get a table ordering a plateau de fruits de mer who will go through several different wines during the course of the meal. One of our best-selling wines is a 5 a glass Sauvignon Blanc from Argentina. We’re also selling a lot of Albarino.”

We ordered a series of dishes, some raw, some cooked and sauced and tried a range of different wines - mainly white - with them:

Oysters with and without shallot vinegar
Mark was firmly of the view that oysters were better without vinegar from a wine point of view, letting the wine do the job of condiment. The, zesty, lemony Laflor Sauvignon Blanc proved a surprisingly good match with the oysters on their own, almost like eating Sydney rock oysters. An oaked white Bordeaux, Chateau Guiraud 2005 worked slightly better, once a splash of shallot vinegar was added.
Other possibilities: try the Languedoc’s favourite oyster white Picpoul de Pinet

Shellfish cocktail
With the classic ‘marie-rose’ sauce (to which Mark had added a bit of a kick by way of horseradish and Tabasco), we reckoned you needed a touch of sweetness but an Ayler Kupp 2005 Mosel Kabinett Riesling proved too floral. A 2004 Pauletts Polish Hill Riesling from the Clare Valley which had an evolved lime and kerosene character worked better but the best match by far was an English wine, a 2005 Chapel Hill Bacchus. A youthful, clean 2006 Martin Codex Albarino also worked well.
Other possibilities: Mark suggested a dry ros or chilled minor red burgundy like a Fixin. Pink fizz might also be fun

Tiger Prawns with garlic butter
We both thought sherry would be a great match for the garlicky, buttery juices but the La Gitana Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana we tried lacked the freshness and bite we were looking for. A glass of Tio Pepe, however, hit the spot perfectly. We also liked a crisp 2005 Marques de Riscal Rueda
Other possibilities: an Australian Verdelho

Dressed crab
Here being able to taste the delicate flavour of the crab was critical so we first went for a classic Pouilly Fum 2005 from Domaine Coulbois which worked predictably well as opposed to a lightly oaked Christophe Cordier Pouilly Fuiss which was disappointing. The big surprise though was that the Bacchus again proved an excellent match. “This is a top seafood wine” said Mark approvingly.
Other possibliities: A modern dry German riesling

Baked spider crab
A rich spicy dish, including ginger, garlic, chilli and sherry which led Mark to the Tio Pepe again but it didn’t perform quite so well this time. What did work wonderfully, especially with the brown crabmeat and buttery crumbs was a buttery Les Hauts de Smith Pessac-Lognan 2004 (the second white of Smith-Haut-Lafitte). It was also surprisingly good, by way of contrast, with the La Flor Sauvignon Blanc
Other possibilities: A viognier or fat Southern French white blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier would have the requisite weight for the sauce and deal well with the spice

Lobster Mayonnaise
Although cold shellfish normally calls for crisp wines, lobster meat with its sweetness and richness needs a more full-bodied white especially if served, as it is at Scott’s, with a rich mayonnaise and chips. A favourite of Mark’s, a big, buttery Dog Point chardonnay from Marlborough in New Zealand (the 2005) hit the spot perfectly. An intense, minerally Punggl Pinot Grigio 2006 from the Alto Adige also worked in quite a different register, creating a clean, minerally counterpoint but we found the lesser whites such as the Pouilly Fuiss generally foundered
Other possibilities: Vintage champagne or - a nice idea from Mark - Bandol ros

Lobster Thermidor
Mark’s thermidor sauce was atypically mustardy which made crisper wines like the Pinot Grigio perform better than we expected. Mark also put up a chilled 2004 Peregrine Pinot Noir from New Zealand which was a touch sweet but proved a red could work as well as a white with this sort of sauce.
Other possibilitiies: A red burgundy with a bit of bottle age would have been ideal.

Griddled scallops with chilli and garlic
Two potentially conflicting influences here - the sweet, caramelised flavour of seared scallops and the spiciness of the chilli which I thought might be a bit much for the Dog Point Chardonnay. It actually matched pretty well though we thought a 2006 Wachau Grner Veltliner from Weingut Pfarre had the edge. The Tio Pepe worked again too though both the Polish Hill Riesling and the Bacchus were a bit overwhelmed.
Other possibilities: Albarino would have been a good pairing here too

Herb-roasted shellfish with sea vegetables and garlic butter
A dream dish of lobster, prawns and razor clams which combined the sweet flavours of roasted shellfish with garlic and herbs. Flagging a bit by this stage we only tried three wines, the Albarino (good), the Peregrine Pinot Noir (much better here than with the thermidor sauce) and, given the powerful umami flavours of the roast shells, a glass of Scott’s house champagne Thophile Roederer Brut which proved the star pairing
Other options: top new world fizz such as Pelorus

Although the tasting confirmed many of our existing prejudices we both felt it threw up some interesting insights. One was the important part that the age and temperature of the wine plays in matching shellfish, particularly when it’s raw or unsauced. Younger wines, with intense, clean flavours, generally work better than more mature ones that have been subject to a degree of oxidation. Secondly dry whites are a much more reliable choice than off-dry, aromatic ones (though the Bacchus was a great hit with us both). And thirdly that matching shellfish is as much to do with mood as food. In the right setting (a beach caf) a simple fresh wine can be just as pleasurable as a great one.

Scott’s is at 20 Mount Street, London W1K 2HE. Tel: 020 7495 7309. www.scotts-restaurant.com

This article was first published in the September 2007 issue of Decanter. Mark Hix has since left Scotts to open his own restaurants Hix Oyster and Chop House and Hix Oyster and Fish House

Image credit: Terje Sollie

What to drink with a TV dinner?

This month’s issue of Observer Food Monthly hasa special on TV dinners featuring celebrities talking about their favourite snacks. Very few beverages are mentioned so I thought I’d suggest a few pairings ;-)

Indian takeaway
Amanda Holden is pictured eating pasta with pesto but actually says her regular TV supper is an Indian takeaway. Lager would be the obvious bevvy of choice for most but personally I’d go for an IPA (India Pale Ale) or a strong fruity rosé

Spag bol
A bit of a messy TV snack from Observer restaurant critic Jay Rayner but who wouldn’t be tempted by Angela Hartnett’s 3-4 hour ragu which deserves a good bottle. Like a Chianti Classico riserva. See my 6 best pairings for spaghetti bolognese.

Fish fingers
(Or equally, fish and chips.) Mentioned by novelist Julie Myerson who also admits to enjoying a glass of Sauvignon Blanc. They’d rub along fine together but I must confess to a secret vice which is that I love fish fingers and champagne. Cava at a pinch.

Tapas
Newsreader Mark Austin says he likes tapas and a glass of wine (unspecified though I suspect it might be a Rioja). He should try a well-chilled glass of fino or manzanilla sherry. See also my 6 best Spanish wines to try with tapas.

Cheese on toast
We also don’t know what wine his colleague Julie Etchingham drinks with her cheese on toast made with “strong cheddar, always with Worcestershire sauce” Could quaff a Cabernet but I’d personally be reaching for a bottle of Timothy Taylor Landlord.

Home-made burgers
The fondly remembered childhood treat of X Factor presenter Dermot O’Leary. Adults should try them with a good bottle of Bordeaux: as fine a match with a burger as a steak - provided you don’t overdo the relish.

Chips
Perfect TV food, according to the BBC’s Alan Yentob - and he should know. Personally I think this is beer food again. Or a mug of builder’s tea, which would certainly be a good match for his other favoured snack, fried-egg sandwiches . . .

Fish pie
Mentioned by Property Ladder’s Sarah Beeny. Her version, which includes smoked haddock and a cheesy sauce, is quite rich which would make me reach for a fairly full-bodied (but not ridiculously oaky) Chardonnay. See also my 4 top drink pairings for fish pie.

Image credit: Andres Ayrton

Pairing wine and Indian seafood

Indian seafood dishes showcase a rich variety of flavors, from creamy coconut-based curries to smoky tandoori preparations and fiery regional specialties. Pairing wine with these dishes can be tricky due to the interplay of spice, acidity, and umami, but the right wine can elevate the experience. Here are 10 popular Indian seafood dishes with wine pairing suggestions to help you find the perfect match:

Goan Fish Curry (Xitti Kodi)

A tangy and spicy coconut-based curry with tamarind and red chilies.
Wine Pairing: Off-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer – the slight sweetness balances the heat and complements the coconut.

Meen Moilee (Kerala Fish Curry)

A mild, coconut milk-based curry with mustard seeds and curry leaves.
Wine Pairing: Aromatic Viognier or Chenin Blanc – both work well with the creamy texture and delicate spices.

Machher Jhol (Bengali Fish Curry)

A mustard-infused fish curry with turmeric and potatoes.
Wine Pairing: A crisp Sauvignon Blanc or Albariño to cut through the mustard’s pungency.

Tandoori Prawns

Jumbo prawns marinated in yogurt, garlic, and spices, then roasted in a tandoor.
Wine Pairing: A lightly oaked Chardonnay or dry Rosé – both complement the smoky, charred flavors.

Fish Tikka

Boneless fish chunks marinated in mustard oil and spices, then grilled.
Wine Pairing: Medium-bodied Pinot Noir or Grenache – light enough for fish, but with enough structure for the spices.

Bombil Fry (Bombay Duck Fry)

Crispy, deep-fried Bombay duck (a soft fish) from Mumbai.
Wine Pairing: Sparkling wine (e.g., Brut Prosecco or Champagne) – the acidity and bubbles cut through the fried richness.

7. Karimeen Pollichathu

Pearl spot fish wrapped in banana leaves and grilled with a spicy marinade.
Wine Pairing: Grüner Veltliner or Fiano – both have fresh acidity and subtle spiciness to match the dish.

Patrani Machhi

A Parsi dish where fish is steamed in banana leaves with coconut and coriander chutney.
Wine Pairing: Vermentino or Sancerre – bright, citrusy, and perfect with herbaceous flavors.

Hilsa Paturi

Hilsa fish wrapped in mustard paste and banana leaves, then steamed.
Wine Pairing: Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc – high acidity to contrast the mustard’s intensity.

Sungta Sukka (Mangalorean Spicy Prawns)

A dry prawn dish cooked with coconut, tamarind, and red chilies.
Wine Pairing: Off-dry Rosé or Zinfandel – both balance the heat while enhancing the dish’s bold flavors.

See also my six drinks you might not thought of pairing with Indian food. 

A story from a food and wine tasting at Trishna in London

This story was originally published in March 2009.

It’s less common to come across Indian-spiced seafood dishes than it is fish and vegetable-based ones so what sort of wine works? Yesterday I had a chance to find out.

The meal was at Trishna, London’s latest high-end Indian restaurant which specialises in seafood. It’s an interesting venue which I’ll write about separately but for now I want to concentrate on the pairings which were devised by their Austrian general manager and sommelier Leo Kiem.

Each dish on the menu comes with an accompanying wine and/or beer. On the whole the pairings were very successful and even those that missed the mark (in my opinion) were interesting.

Squid with spiced rice flour, lime zest and chilli
A version of salt and pepper squid with a very light rice flour batter. Despite the description it wasn’t too spicy - you could really taste the squid The conventional pairing would have been a champagne or sparkling wine but the smooth dry Rotgipfler from Reinisch in Austria’s Thermenregion Kiem had chosen worked perfectly.

Hariyali Bream, mint coriander and green chilli masala, charred tomato kachumber
My favourite dish and my joint favourite pairing. A marvellous dish of grilled bream that had been smothered in a coriander-based wet paste, served with spiced cherry tomatoes - a quite unpredictable pairing with a very attractive crisp Dr Burklin-Wolf Riesling 2007 (It was probably the herby paste that made the wine kick in)

Isle of Wight Plaice, fried with coastal spices served with crushed pea and mint
A great indian riff on fried fish and mushy peas. Slightly less subtle than the other dishes with the odd effect of making the accompanying 2004 Pinot Blanc Auxerrois Vielles Vignes from Domaine Schoffit in Alsace taste slightly sweet. Something like an Alto Adige Pinot Grigio would have been marginally better I felt. (The accompanying peas by the way were wonderful)

Isle of Shuna Mussels simmered in a coconut and turmeric masala
Kiem brought out a biodynamic Chasselas from Alsace with this dish which I didn’t think worked. It was too funky - almost slightly sherried in character. I’m not sure what I would have matched with this - the coconut flavour was quite pronounced. Possibly an Alsace Pinot Gris or a Viognier though I liked the idea of an Erdinger weiss bier which is also an option. (The current pairing is a 2008 Chenin Blanc from Sula Vineyards in Nashik, India)

Cornish brown crab with butter, pepper & garlic
We tried this as an extra as it was one of their signature dishes. It was fantastic - and fantastically rich - swimming in butter. It was a bold move to pair it with a heavyweight Argentian red a 2005 Cuvelier Los Andes ‘Collecion’ and I didn’t feel it worked which isn’t to say that another less tannic red wouldn’t have fared better - possibly a Merlot. Personally though I’d have gone for a barrel-fermented Chardonnay.

We also tried a couple of desserts which also proved great foils for the accompanying sweet wines

Mango Kheer - Mango rice pudding with a sweet chilli coulis
Already a candidate for one of my pairings of the year with a glass of 2003 Chateau Filhot, Sauternes. A wonderful idea mixing fresh mango puree with warm, gently spiced rice pudding and it showed off the Sauternes in all its luscious glory. One of those pairings that’s more than the sum of its parts.

Carrot halwa with pistachio ice cream
An adventurous dessert - subtly spiced but not very sweet which allowed the accompanying citrussy 2007 Iona Noble Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc from the Elgin region of South Africa to really shine.

Image credit: Asit Naskar

Matching wine and yakitori

Yakitori, the Japanese art of grilling skewered chicken over charcoal, is a deceptively simple dish with complex flavors. Traditionally enjoyed with sake or beer, pairing yakitori with wine presents a unique challenge. Japanese cuisine, in general, can be tricky when it comes to wine pairings due to its delicate balance of umami, sweetness, and salt (learn more in my post about drink pairings for sushi). Yakitori, with its smoky, savory, and sometimes caramelized elements, requires careful consideration to find wines that complement rather than overpower its flavors.

For salt-seasoned (shio) yakitori, a crisp white wine with bright acidity—such as a Sauvignon Blanc or an Albariño—works well to refresh the palate and highlight the dish’s subtle flavors. Meanwhile, tare-seasoned yakitori, which is glazed with a rich, sweet soy-based sauce, pairs best with fruit-forward reds like Pinot Noir or Gamay, which can stand up to the umami and caramelization without overwhelming the dish.

See also: Is Koshu the best match for Japanese food?

A story from a Japanese wine tasting at Tsuru London

Bloggers’ food and wine events, like this one that took place at the south London restaurant Tsuru, are getting more and more popular with everyone snapping, videoing and interviewing each other. (More interesting than the matches, if truth betold.)

Tsuru is basically a sushi bar with a bit of yakitori and other dishes and a rather ambitious wine list put together by Damian Tillson of Sotheby’s who conducted the tasting. Unfortunately he’d run out of riesling which was apparently the most popular choice among the clientele (interesting) but fielded a couple of Sauvignon-based wines, a Macon Verz, a Provencal ros and a couple of reds.

Neither sushi or yakitori is particularly easy. The raw fish in sushi can make wine taste metallic and the sweetness of the yakitori marinade strip out the fruit so it was hard to get one one to do for both.The best options for the modern maki rolls I thought were the two Sauvignons, a simpler Entre-deux-Mers from Domaine de Ricaud and a Sancerre from Domaine Bailly-Reverdy, both tasting better with the food them they they had done on their own though to be fair tasting them against a background aroma of raw fish and cooking oil didn’t give them much of a chance.

The Macon Verz from Domaine Leflaive didn’t really work with the sushi but was quite good with the yakitori and the Cote de Brouilly from Georges Viornery just about got by but only with the tuna nigiri. A really attractive La Tunella Cabernet Franc from Friuli also found itself out of sorts, just about surviving the chicken yakitori but not working as well as you’d have thought with some teriyaki steak (the sweetness of the sauce skewed the fruit) I’d also have expected the Provencal ros, a Domaine Pique Roque to do better but it didn’t react well to either the raw fish or the sweetness of the marinades which both played havoc with its delicate fruit.

It’s a shame because the list is an ambitious attempt to provide interesting drinking at a small city restaurant but I can’t help but feel they’d do better if they limited their choice more, ventured outside France and offered more wines by the glass. My previous forays into Japanese food pairing have convinced me that very dry sparkling wine is usually a good match for sushi and also, curiously, Muscadet. And you probably need to field a softer, fruitier red like a Chilean Pinot Noir with yakitori. Or simply drink sake or beer ;-)

Image by Rachel Claire