The best food pairings for dry Furmint

All countries like to boast that their signature grape variety goes with practically everything but in the case of Hungary’s furmint it’s true.

With “the aromatics of sauvignon blanc, the rich mouthfeel of chardonnay and the vibrant acidity of riesling” as my colleague Tim Atkin neatly puts it it really is a take-me-anywhere wine.

Hungary of course has a great gastronomic tradition of its own so you could obviously drink it with everything from foie gras which is hugely popular in the country to chicken paprikash.

But its rare combination of lushness and searing acidity makes it an incredibly good partner for the dishes that involve sweet and savoury elements that you often find in Asian cuisines and in Moroccan tagines. I reckon it would work with many Chinese, Korean, Burmese and Thai recipes that mingle hot, sour and sweet.

And at a recent online tasting, sommelier Isa Bal and Jonny Lake of Trivet played around with Japanese tastes and flavours using miso, sesame and kombu (seaweed) in their presentation.

I confess I’m still in the process of learning about this rather miraculous variety which you also find in Austria and Slovakia but some avenues you might want to explore are:

With fresh unoaked young furmints

Like other crisp white wines it would go with simply cooked fish and shellfish especially crab and prawns.

Smoked and cured fish like this beetroot cured salmon with horseradish I wrote about a while ago

Chicken with a creamy or herby sauce such as this Pot roast chicken with herby crème fraîche from Olia Hercules.

Sushi and tempura (Isa Bal suggested tempura of red mullet and sea vegetables (kombu) with a sweet and sour dip)

Salads and vegetable dishes that include citrus, especially orange

Lightly pickled vegetables

White asparagus

Goats’ or young sheep cheeses

You could also take a look at these pairings with Chablis which should work with lighter styles of furmint too.

With richer styles with oak or a few years maturity

Chicken or duck liver parfait (Ronan Sayburn and Marcus Verberne of 67 Pall Mall pair it with a chicken liver parfait with an orchard fruit compote of quince, pear, peach and apple in their book Wine and Food.

Seared scallops

Grilled or roast lobster

Roast goose

Duck à l’orange

Roast celeriac

Pork belly

Moroccan tagines

Aged Comté or Gruyère

Umami-rich Japanese or Japanese-influenced dishes (see above)

Off-dry styles which would still classify as dry rather than sweet should work with milder curries and, according to Hungarian wine expert Caroline Gilby, with chicken katsu! (In his book Tastebuds and Molecules Francois Chartier identifies a compound called sotolon which is present in curry powder and fenugreek and also in sweet wines such as Tokaji Aszú, Hungary’s famous sweet wine.

For more on late harvest furmints see The best food pairings for Tokai Aszu.

The wines shown above were provided as press samples by Wines of Hungary

The best food and wine pairings for Valentine’s Day

If you’re planning a special meal for Valentine’s Day you may be wondering which wine to pair with your menu. I’ve picked some favourite Valentine’s Day foods and suggested some matches that should work well with them.

Asparagus

If served on its own with melted butter or a hollandaise sauce a subtle, creamy white burgundy or chardonnay would be the most seductive choice. If dressed with a vinaigrette or in a salad with seafood I’d go for a crisper white like a Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or other top quality sauvignon blanc.

Camembert

Camembert baked in its box makes a sexy instant fondue but isn’t the easiest of dishes to pair with wine (even trickier than when it’s served cold). Funnily enough a glass of champagne - or similar style sparkling wine - works surprisingly well or go for a dry white like a Chablis.

What to pair with Camembert

Caviar (or, more likely, a caviar imitation)

Dry champagne. (Vodka is arguably better but not as romantic.)

Chocolate (dark)

There are possibilities with wine (sweet reds like Maury or Quady’s seductive Elysium being good choices - see

www.quadywinery.com) but my own preferred option with dark chocolate is a frozen shot of cherry brandy or other fruit-flavoured spirit or liqueur or a small glass of sloe or damson gin. An orange-flavoured liqueur like Grand Marnier also works well.

Chocolate (white)

An ice-cold raspberry-flavoured wine or liqueur like Southbrook Winery’s Framboise from Canada. Especially if the dessert includes raspberries.

Duck

Pinot Noir. Look to New Zealand and Chile for the best value

Ice cream (vanilla)

Tricky with wine. A toffee or chocolate-flavoured liqueur is your best bet. Very sweet PX sherry can be wonderful poured over it.

Ice cream (chocolate)

Try a coffee-flavoured liqueur like Toussaint or Kahlua.

Lobster

Good white burgundy (or other chardonnay) or vintage champagne.

Wine with lobster: 5 of the best pairings

Oysters

Champagne or Chablis. Not Guinness on Valentine’s Night, I suggest.

Best matches with oysters

Passion fruit

Can be quite sharp so you need a very sweet wine to balance it. A sweet riesling or late harvest semillon or sauvignon blanc will work well. If it’s mixed with a creamy base as in a passion fruit brulée you could drink a sweet (demi-sec) Champagne or other dessert wine. Or a passion fruit flavoured beer. (Yes, such drinks exist! Try Floris from Belgium.)

Prawns/shrimp

If you’re serving a classic prawn cocktail I suggest a dry or off-dry riesling which would also work with an Asian-style stir-fry or salad. A sparkling rosé - including champagne - would be a suitably kitsch all-pink choice.

The best pairings for prawns or shrimp

Smoked salmon

Champagne on this occasion. But see

other possibilities.

Scallops

Made for top white burgundy or other really good chardonnay. Champagne is also spot on if that’s what you’re drinking.

Top wine pairings with scallops

Steak

The best full-bodied red you can afford. Whatever turns your partner on . . .

My 5 top wine and steak pairing tips

Strawberries

If served plain and unadorned, gently sparkling Moscato d’Asti or Asti is lovely or go for the luscious

Fragola liqueur. If they’re served with cream you could serve a classic sweet wine like Sauternes.

My top pairings with strawberries

Image © 9MOT at shutterstock.com

The best wine pairings for cauliflower

There was once little point in thinking about wine in the context of cauliflower.

It was a vegetable. It was bland - except arguably in cauliflower cheese - and generally accompanied something that was more likely to dictate the pairing like a Sunday roast.

But now it’s roasted, fried, spiced and partnered by other exotic and flavourful ingredients it has become the focus of a meal and deserves its own wine pairings. You can even have it as a ‘steak’.

So which wine should you go for? It depends as usual how you cook it - with a sauce, roasted or in a salad ...

*With a creamy sauce, in a cauliflower soup or in cauliflower cheese: smooth dry whites are the order of the day. Think unoaked or subtly oaked chardonnay like Chablis, chenin blanc, Soave, Gavi, dry pinot gris … Unless it accompanies a steak in which case stick to your usual red.

*As a caramelised cauliflower purée (very fashionable, often in the company of scallops.)
White burgundy or a similarly posh chardonnay is bang on.

*Cauliflower cake
That marvellous creation from Ottolenghi’s Plenty More we’ve all been tempted to make or made. (I have for the record - right) Smooth dry whites again though maybe with a lick more oak. Or dry cider.

*Whole roast cauliflower or roast or grilled cauliflower ‘steaks’
Try Rhône or Rhone-ish blends of Roussanne and Marsanne, oaked white rioja or Douro whites

*Cauliflower salads
Depends if it’s raw or roast and what the other ingredients are. In general a crisper white for raw and a more robust one if it’s roast. That said food-friendly gruner veltliner would work with both. Punchy ingredients like capers, olives and anchovies would steer me more in the direction of crisp, maybe Italian, whites or dry rosés. Ingredients like raisins, dates or pomegranate seeds towards a light red such as gamay or an orange wine. (A white wine made like a red).

See this raw cauliflower, mushroom and feta salad which I suggested with a Picpoul de Pinet or an albarino. (As much because of the feta as the cauliflower tbh)

* If nuts such as hazelnuts or almonds are a prominent feature in the dish you could even go for a fino or dry amontillado sherry or as at this wine dinner, an aged muscadet.

*Indian spiced cauliflower e.g. aloo gobi
Unlikely to be the only dish on the table but it may be part of a selection of vegetable curries in which case I’ve found sylvaner from Alsace invariably hits the spot. Dry riesling or better still riesling blends with, say pinot gris and gewurztraminer are also delicious

See this recipe for cauliflower curry, boiled eggs and coconut crumble.

And Ottolenghi’s Curried Cauliflower Cheese filo pie

If you’re a brassica fan you may also enjoy these posts:

Six of the best drink pairings for kale

8 great wine matches for brussels sprouts

Image by Magdanatka at shutterstock.com

What type of wine pairs best with Vietnamese food? (updated)

Wednesday marked not only the start of the Chinese New Year but the Vietnamese New Year celebrations too - known as Tet.

As in China there are certain foods which are traditional to the occasion such as pickled vegetables and candied fruits, none of which are particularly wine-friendly but in general I find Vietnamese food, with its milder heat and fragrant herbal flavours easier to match than Thai.

Given that quite a lot of the dishes are food you’d pick up on the street you might not have a glass of wine conveniently to hand but wine, particularly dry white wine, works surprisingly well. 

Which grape varieties though?

The grape variety I’ve generally found goes best overall with Vietnamese food where several dishes are generally served at the same time is Austrian grüner veltliner, a combination I discovered a good few years ago now at The Slanted Door in San Francisco.

Its own slightly herbal, green pepper character seems to complement the herbal notes in many Vietnamese dishes perfectly.

Other good options are dry riesling - you need slightly less sweetness than for the hot/sweet/sour flavours of Thai food and dry whites such as albarino, muscadet and assyrtiko especially with lighter dishes like summer rolls and Vietnamese chicken salad such as this one from Uyen Luu.

I’d avoid rich chardonnays although young unoaked Chablis would work perfectly well

Sparkling wine would also be an easy drinking option - an occasion when a good prosecco could come into its own but other fizz such as crémant would work too 

Provence - or similar Languedoc - rosé would also go well with the lighter fresher dishes that are typical of the Vietnamese kitchen.

If you fancy a red I’d go for a light cabernet-franc-based Loire red such as a Saumur or Bourgueil, a Beaujolais Villages or other gamay or a pinot noir

Soft drinks or cocktails with an element of sharpness or sourness also hit the spot as you can see from this ginger and lemongrass cordial (Bottlegreen does a ready made one in the UK) 

I also remember having a delicious tamarind whisky sour with some Vietnamese fish sauce chicken wings at a restaurant called Pok Pok in Portland, Oregon. Here’s a similar recipe for the cocktail and the wings.

With pho - as with most noodle dishes with broth - I find a light lager a better pairing but again grüner veltliner or dry riesling would work perfectly well. Ditto the famous Vietnamese sandwich banh mi although Uyen Luu also suggests green tea.

Top photo © Nunung Noor Aisyah at shutterstock.com