Pairings | Stilton

Which foods pair best with tawny port?
We rarely think of tawny port as a flexible pairing for food. We serve it with stilton, obviously and with hard cheeses like cheddar, with nuts and dried fruits and over Christmas with fruit cake and mince pies but that’s usually as far as it goes.
True, its sweetness suggests desserts and cakes rather than savoury dishes but like other strong dessert wines it can do sterling service at the start of a meal, particularly if it’s - as is increasingly fashionable - lightly chilled. And even with sweet things you should ensure - as is the case with other dessert wines - that your dessert is not far sweeter than your port.
On the spot
A Portuguese favourite with tawny port are the rich eggy pastries that you find in the pastelerias (patisseries) and creamy desserts such as crème caramel. Figs and (elvas) plums are also considered good matches. (According to Christian Seely of Quinta do Noval tawny is superb with fig tart) My own star match, improbable as it might sound, is bread pudding, a brilliant combination I came across on a visit to Lisbon a few years ago.
Sheep's cheeses also work well especially what is by common consent one of Portugal’s finest, the rich creamy Queijo Serra - highly prized by cheese connoisseurs
Why not try:
10 year old tawnies with:
- sherry-style with salted roast almonds
- chicken or duck liver parfait or other meaty pâtés and terrines
- presunto (Portuguese air dried ham) or Spanish jamon iberico
- pecan, almond or walnut tart or cakes
- apple, pear or banana tatin
- a compote of dried fruits
- crème brûlée
- cheesecake (without red fruits)
- ginger-flavoured cakes and puddings
See also my post on caramel-flavoured desserts and tawny port
20 year old tawnies with:
- foie gras - a rich, nutty alternative to Sauternes, it will pick up on a sweet accompaniment such as balsamic vinegar or prunes
- roast lobster (according to Calem)
- feathered game such as pheasant and partridge
- hard sheep's milk cheeses such as Ossau Iraty and Manchego, mature Gouda, parmesan
- dark, bitter chocolate and chocolate truffles (Valrhona’s Caraibe and Choua are recommended by the Chocolate Society)
- biscotti
- panforte di Siena
- roasted chestnuts (a great suggestion from Jose Carneiro of Wiese & Krohn)
In the kitchen
Tawny port is a useful ingredient for any cook to have to hand, especially for deglazing pans. It works particularly well with chicken livers, lambs liver and kidneys and will also add richness to slow-braised meat sauces.You can also use it as a base for a sabayon or zabaglione
A version of this article was first published in Decanter magazine
Image ©anna_shepulova at Adobe Stock.

Beer and Cheese: my 5 favourite pairings
Beer blogger Steve Lamond has been matching beer and cheese for the past seven years and has compiled an invaluable guide on his blog Beers I’ve Known. Hare are his 5 all-time favourites which include some cracking combinations.
Fiona asked me if I’d like to do a guest post on beer and cheese pairings. Never being one to eschew blathering on about my two favourite topics I of course said yes. I’ve chosen my top five pairings. I’m not saying they’re the best in existence but they’re the five that have most impressed me over the years.
I’ve not tried to put them in any order as that would be just too hard! Note that all of my favourites are British cheeses and unpasteurised (with the exception of the Colston Bassett) highlighting what fantastic producers of both beer and cheese we have in this country. Most of the beers should be readily available within the UK, but alternative beers have been suggested in case of difficulty (or if you want to try more than one beer!)
Bristol Beer Factory Hefe and Fresh Ragstone Goats Cheese
This pairing was tasted at Fiona’s own Cheese School and just really worked. The creamy lemon in the cheese complemented the wheat spice and yeast clove esters in this Hefeweizen beer. A light carbonation to titivate rather than scrub the tongue. A great lunchtime pairing.
Alternatives: Weihenstephaner Hefeweissebier, Schneider Weisse
Flying Dog Gonzo Imperial Porter and Colston Bassett Stilton
A classic American beer with a classic British cheese, I can still taste this in my mind one year on. Sweet funky blue marries fantastically with the umami of dark malts in the Imperial Porter. The piquant fruitiness of the cheese complements the yeast and malt fruit flavours. Our friend carbon dioxide works wonders at cleaning the palate after each bite. I’d also love to try this with Stichelton for even greater flavour heights.
Alternatives: Guinness Foreign Extra Stout, Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Franciscan Well Bellringer and Sparkenhoe Red Leicester
Until I’d tried this unpasteurised version, I’d written off Red Leicester as plastic and avoided it. This cheese is fantastic however. As pungent as a mature cheddar and with a lot of fruit too the beer pairs very well with the Extra Special Bitter “style” of beers. The beer brings seville marmalade and candied citrus peel to the table on a chunky raft of malt. Just enough alcohol to ensure it doesn’t get lost under the cheese. The unexpected pairings are often the most rewarding.
Alternatives: Fuller’s ESB, Marble Old Manchester
Marble Saison Special 2011 and Stinking Bishop
I have a soft spot for washed-rind cheeses and Stinking Bishop by Charles Martell is my very favourite. Those slightly funky fruity aromas pair oh so well with Belgian yeast used in Saison beers, placed together they enhance each others’ flavours to a new level. There’s a fairly meaty savoury flavour brought to the fore and the New World hops that Marble loves to use are also accentuated by the pungent cheese. I could polish off a whole bottle easily.
Alternatives: Saison Dupont, Dark Star Saison
Fuller’s Vintage Ale and Keen’s Mature Cheddar
Bottle conditioned and released on an annual basis using the best of that year’s ingredients, Fullers Vintage is a fantastic Barley Wine. It changes with age but all vintages should pair just as well with the Keen’s cheddar. Being of higher alcohol the beer is able to deftly grapple with the tongue-tingling cheese whilst the cheese coaxes more fruity flavours from those malty depths. A perfect nightcap.
Alternatives: Thomas Hardy Ale, JW Lees Harvest Ale
Steve blogs as Beers I’ve Known and posts a monthly cheese and beer pairing. He has a guide to beer and cheese matching available at tinyurl.com/beer-cheeses
For more tips on pairing beer with cheese, check out this guide from Culture Cheese.
What are your favourite beer and cheese pairings?
Image by Alexey Klen from Pixabay

Best beers for Christmas
How many of you will be putting beer on the table at Christmas? Not that many, I suspect, but if you can bring yourself to break with tradition you could be in for a treat. Most supermarkets now carry a sufficiently wide range for you to be able to serve a different beer with each course, should you be so minded. And here’s how to do it:
- As an aperitif or with the smoked salmon I suggest a good quality pilsner or a fragrant cloudy witbier like Hoegaarden or a Bavarian weissbier
- With turkey I’d go for a blonde beer like Leffe, a strong Belgian ale such as Duvel or an American IPA such as Goose Island IPA
- With the pudding - or Christmas cake - you could try a stout or a porter such as Meantime’s (the strong, dark, bitter flavour of the beer will be a great contrast to the sweet, sticky dried fruits) and with the cheese, especially the Stilton, I recommend a vintage ale such as J.W.Lees Harvest ale or other barley wine
There are a number of seasonal beers around such as Young’s fruity, spicy Christmas Pudding Ale but I suggest you again drink those with the cheese or enjoy them on their own rather than pairing them with Christmas pudding, as the name perhaps suggests. The sweet, spicy pudding will knock out the same flavours in the beer leaving you with a dry thin-tasting drink.
For more seasonal beer drinking ideas, check out these posts:
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