Pairings | Saint-Emilion

The best wines to pair with haggis (updated)
I’ve argued before that whisky and beer are the best pairings for haggis but what if you prefer wine? What colour and style work best?
It might raise eyebrows at a Burns Night dinner but if you’re enjoying haggis at home there’s no reason not to crack-open a bottle.
Haggis is quite a funky-tasting meat - a bit like a savoury, spicy sausage - so I think red wine is a better match than white although orange wine, a relatively recent addition to the wine scene, is another good option.
(That’s not a wine made from oranges, for those of you who are unfamiliar with them, but a white wine made like a red by leaving the juice in contact with the skins which gives it a darker colour and a flavour of apricot or quince)
And many haggises - haggi? - are vegetarian these days. They’re not as full-on in flavour as the traditional haggis but they still have a bit of a spicy kick. What should you drink with those?
I’ve found big jammy reds such as Australian shiraz work well with the classic haggis (there is appropriately enough one called Bobbie Burns shiraz (available for about £18-22 from independents including Alexander Hadleigh and Field & Fawcett.
Northern Rhône syrah and grenache/syrah/mourvèdre (GSM) blends from the southern Rhône, the Languedoc and Australia are also good matches, especially if they have a year or two’s bottle age.
Robust ‘natural’ reds (i.e. wines made with wild yeasts and low levels of - if any - sulphur) are also a good choice though again I’d go for syrah rather than lighter gamay or pinot noir.
And as I’ve said there’s no reason why you shouldn’t drink an orange wine. It would match the colour of the neeps (swede) after all ?)
Traditionalists, as I’ve discovered from past Burns’ night dinner’s go for claret - but then they tend to like Bordeaux with anything and everything meaty. I’d pick a more full-bodied Saint-Emilion rather than a more elegant left bank claret. I personally think rioja or, even better, Ribera del Duero is a better match.
Pure carignan, which has become increasingly popular is a good partner for haggis too. I like the old vine carignans which are made by a number of producers in the Maule region of Chile under the VIGNO label
And finally I’d be more than happy to drink a Zinfandel - again, one made from old vines would work particularly well.
So far as vegetarian haggis is concerned you can get away with a slightly lighter wine though if you’re serving it with a robust gravy you might still want to stick to the above suggestions. A Côtes du Rhône or a Rioja would be my preferred choices
See also Which foods pair best with whisky
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What food to pair with red Bordeaux
Although Bordeaux produces some of the most expensive wines in the world it also produces bottles that are great for everyday drinking. So what kind of food pairs best with them?
Red Bordeaux is generally blended from cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot with an occasional dash of malbec or petit verdot. Merlot usually predominates these days even on the so-called ‘left bank’ resulting in softer, fruitier, less tannic wines than would have been the case 20 years ago.
Inexpensive Bordeaux is actually quite light and easy drinking while some more modern styles of Saint-Emilion are quite full-bodied. So it depends on the price bracket you’re talking about.
Inexpensive ‘everyday drinking’ red Bordeaux - what was once referred to as a ‘lunchtime claret’
Charcuterie, especially paté and terrines. Cold roast beef. Cold game pies. Simple grilled meat like a steak frites or sausage with chips, haricot beans or lentils. Shepherd’s pie and its French equivalent hachis parmentier*. Goat and sheep cheeses, mild brie and camembert
Classic ‘left bank’ cabernet-dominated Bordeaux such as Margaux - the sort you might take to a dinner party
Grilled and roast lamb with garlic and rosemary. Roast beef, veal and venison. Steak pies. Beef daubes, ox cheek and other stews cooked in red wine. Hard British territorial cheeses such as Cheshire and red Leicester and French Mimolette. Bacon and eggs (oddly) - see this match of the week.
Riper, full-bodied Merlot-dominated bordeaux
Steak, especially richer steak dishes such as tournedos rossini. Posh burgers. Japanese-style steak dishes. Roast duck - even Chinese-style crispy duck pancakes. Christmas turkey. Macaroni cheese and macaronnade (a pasta bake with meat). Cheddar
Older vintages of Bordeaux where the primary fruit has faded
Similar to my recommendations for 'classic' Bordeaux above. Just go easy on the gravy or jus and on the accompanying vegetables. Lighter, less intense stews such as blanquette de veau. Also good with game birds such as duck, partridge and pheasant and with dishes that include mushrooms and truffles. Hard sheep cheeses
First and second growths if you’re lucky enough to get your hands on them
Simply cooked roast and grilled meat, especially lamb. Hot game pies and pithiviers. Jugged hare. Grouse. Aged parmesan.
Good general accompaniments for red bordeaux are rich potato purées (mash) and gratin dauphinoise, mushrooms and truffles and green beans with garlic.
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The best food pairings with Saint-Emilion
Saint-Emilion is a familiar name on a wine list but what sort of food goes with it best? Sommelier Nathalie Gardiner suggests her favourite pairings.
As one of the four main red wine producing regions of Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion offers the typical Right Bank combination of merlot and cabernet franc. Even though the blend remains the same across the majority of the area, its wines are incredibly varied; by vintage, by class, by vineyard and even by individual plot.
AOCs around the main appellation such as Lussac Saint-Emilion, Montagne Saint-Emilion, Saint-George Saint-Emilion and Puisseguin Saint-Emilion also produce similar wines (often at a more reasonable price) which go with the same type of dishes.
Pairing food with Saint-Emilion is best approached by age and style. Generally, you can’t go wrong with partnering it with local dishes like confit duck or beef entrecôte, but there are plenty of other, more diverse international options too.
Basic Saint-Emilion (Saint-Emilion Grand Cru)
This is your entry-level wine in Saint Emilion; they meet the basic appellation rules, and tend to be more youthful, juicy and simple than your Grand Cru Classés and above.
Duck or game terrine with some quince jelly on the side would be great due to its rich fatty content that balances with the freshness of the wines.
Comté or similarly mild, slightly sweet cheese.
Shoulder of lamb roasted with rosemary or thyme, with seasonal greens
Rich, tomato-based pizza and pasta dishes, such as a pizza napolitana, or lasagne
If you have a Saint-Emilion that has a higher proportion of merlot, spicy Asian dishes like rogan josh, or Chinese or Korean hotpots can work well; just make sure that the wine is fleshy enough to handle the spice
A big ol’ sticky rack of ribs, especially when eaten with hands and sauce dripping down one’s face; seems like a bit of a long shot, but once you try it you will be convinced!
Good quality Saint-Emilion, 2-5 years old (generally within Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé classification)
At the time of writing, the past few years of released vintages of Saint-Emilion have been considered quite varied, so check the vintage on the label. It’s the general consensus that 2012, 2014, 2015 and 2016 are the best recent years: with these vintages especially you will want your dishes to be richer, more flavourful and more heavily sauced. This is to keep up with the riper tannins and higher levels of alcohol and greater concentration that has become the norm in the merlot dominated blends of the Right Bank.
Classic Entrecôte à la Bordelaise is, irrefutably, the best dish with Saint-Emilion wines; perfectly cooked rib of beef with the famous red wine and shallot sauce. Serve it with some ceps and you’re on the road to pure joy.
Along the same lines, Beef Wellington (known in France as Boeuf en Croute) is a rich dish that benefits from the power of a good Saint-Emilion
Roast pigeon, preferably served with a thick, rich red wine jus and confit onions (paradise!)
Stews of lamb or game, especially those with slightly more middle-eastern influences, such as tagines.
Chilli con carne (or ‘sin’ carne, as your diet dictates), or other Tex Mex dishes like beef burritos.
Macaroni cheese/mac’n’cheese - a surprise pairing, maybe, but a good one as you can discover here
Tapas of any kind will go well, specifically patatas bravas, pulpo Gallego and croquetas de jamón
Confit de Canard, another classic Aquitanian dish of confit duck legs
Saint-Nectaire cheese, which can be found on any cheese plate in Saint-Emilion despite its roots in the Auvergne, or any other earthy, nutty semi-hard cheese
More evolved, mature Saint-Emilion of 10+ years
(These can be within any class in the entire Saint-Emilion Classification, definitely including Premier Grand Cru Classé, but of high quality)
These wines tend to be more delicately balanced, with tannins that are well integrated. The ripe fruit that was there in its early years will most likely have turned into earthy, mushroomy or dried fruit flavours. Of course vintages are still important but it is better to steer away from those rich sauces that were better with the younger wines.
Any kind of roast bird would be fantastic with an older Saint-Emilion. Christmas dinners are the perfect time to open a beautiful vintage with turkey, goose or partridge, and all the trimmings (especially the bread sauce!).
A mushroom risotto or tagliatelle with creamy morel sauce would be great, since wines that age well still have a freshness that will give some life and lightness to the rich sauces.
Sautéed chicken that is cooked with some more earthy and nutty accoutrements, like cherries and almonds.
A light lamb or veal stew like a navarin of lamb, or if you’d really like to immerse yourself in the Southwest, a Garbure, perfect for transitional months
Duck breasts preferably prepared in the traditional Southwest style - i.e. pan-fried in their own fat

Truffle omelettes - not found often in my experience, but they are a goldmine of pleasure when you come across them. The earthiness of the truffle is perfect for slightly older Saint-Emilions.
Do you have any favourite Saint-Emilion pairings I haven't included here? Do share if you do!
For other Bordeaux pairings see What food to match with red Bordeaux
Nathalie Gardiner is a sommelier and is currently studying for a Wine and Management Diploma at the Cordon Bleu Institute in Paris.
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