Pairings | Navarra

The best wine pairings for Navarra wines

The best wine pairings for Navarra wines

Advertising feature: Navarra is one of the most forward-looking of Spanish wine regions offering boldly flavoured wines that are a match for a wide range of dishes.

Although its reputation was built on strong dry rosés (rosados) it now offers a range of generous, full-bodied reds that combine local grape varieties such as garnacha and tempranillo with international grape varieties such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon creating wines you can enjoy with many different cuisines.

What food to pair with Navarra’s best-loved wines

GARNACHA

Barbecued brisket by Andrei Iakhniuk at shutterstock.com

Garnacha (grenache) is a red grape variety native to Navarra which has been revived by producers around the region with some stunning results. It makes rich generous wines that are high in alcohol and therefore perfectly suited to red meat from barbecued brisket to lingeringly slow-cooked ox cheek or oxtail.

It’s perfect with the pork and bean dishes that characterise winter eating in the region but would be equally good with hearty dishes from further afield such Korea’s dwaeji bulgogi or beef in black bean sauce. (It isn’t afraid of either sweetness or spice). It’s also great - and you must try this - with a goulash.

If you don’t eat meat think vegetarian dishes based on pulses such as beans and lentils or the substantial savoury flavour of ingredients such as portabella mushrooms and aubergines. (Try it with the Chinese dish fish-fragrant aubergines which, incidentally, doesn’t include fish!)

In terms of cheese I’d be looking to blue cheeses such as Gorgonzola and Stilton and maybe even Spain’s punchy Cabrales.

Oh, and don’t forget roast turkey! Garnacha is the perfect wine for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

One to try: El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa 2019 Old Vines Garnacha

A bright, fresh garnacha with vivid intense fruit.

TEMPRANILLO-BASED RED WINE BLENDS

Gourmet burger by Marian Weyo at shutterstock.com

Navarra has gone its own way with its reds in recent years, blending international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with its own Tempranillo, creating a unique modern style that’s both elegant and accessible.

If you want to keep it straightforward, particularly with older vintages stick to simply grilled or roasted meat, especially lamb which is wonderful in that part of Spain. This is also a great style to enjoy with a rare breed steak or with venison, especially if cooked in a red wine sauce. (You can sneak a bit to use in the recipe!)

These tempranillo blends are also great with a gourmet burger, especially with cheese or with roasted or grilled portabella mushrooms. In fact it’s hard to think of a better pairing than a good cheeseboard with maybe some of Spain’s fantastic jamon iberico (iberico ham) and other cold meats on the side. Seek out Spanish cheeses such as the local Roncal and Zamorano as well as the more widely available Manchego.

One to try: Principe de Viana Edicion Limitada 2017 (Great Grog has the 2018)

An elegant smooth, ripe, cabernet-based blend.

CHARDONNAY

Scallops in garlic butter by DronG at shutterstock.com

Chardonnay in Navarra is opulent and generous, among the best that Spain produces with a lovely lifted freshness that makes them particularly good with seafood.

You probably don’t need me to tell you what works with chardonnay but think of a Dover sole, swimming in butter, a fat grilled lobster (and chips) and a beautiful crisp roast chicken. Anything - chicken, pasta, mushrooms - with a creamy sauce - or a pie topping come to that. A chicken and tarragon pie with chardonnay is wickedly good as is s fine fish pie. Or a plate of roasted scallops and garlic butter (all to yourself!)

Corn is wonderful with chardonnay as is butternut squash so how about a butternut squash lasagna or risotto? Or indulge yourself with a glass for Sunday lunch - it’s perfect with eggs benedict.

Cheese might provide the one surprise though. I love a good red with cheddar but Navarra chardonnay is just as good. Give it a go!

One to try: Castillo Monjardín Chardonnay 2020

A rich, powerful chardonnay but, surprisingly, unoaked. The fact it’s grown at 650m of altitude contributes to its freshness.

ROSADO

Image by Kiattipong at shutterstock.com

The first thing that strikes you about Navarra rosé or rosado as it’s called in the region is the colour which is a deep intense, almost magenta like pink. That doesn’t mean it’s sweet, merely fruity with the structure to stand up to some punchy flavours. I immediately think of barbecue - it could cope with all those spicy marinades and sauces but it would be great with spicy south-east Asian food too. I love a rosado with a Thai green curry.

Nearer to home in Spain this style of rosé is great with paella, especially pork and rabbit-based ones and the perfect wine to take you through an evening of tapas. It would be great with the Navarra speciality menestra, a glorious soupy stew of spring vegetables. It can even handle tricky-to-match artichokes!

It’s obviously going to rub along just fine with seafood, especially lobster (again) or those wonderful Carabineros red prawns.

In terms of cheeses I’d pair a rosado with sheep cheeses and, particularly, goat cheeses. A Monte Enebro, one of my favourite goat cheeses, would be perfect.

One to try: Ozalder Rosado 2020

Deep, deep pink with bright cherry aromas and flavours.The classic Navarra style.

This is an advertising feature in association with D.O. Navarra

Top image © Brent Hofacker at shutterstock.com

Which wine to drink with paella?

Which wine to drink with paella?

Paella, the iconic Spanish dish, pairs beautifully with a range of wines, but choosing between white, red, or rosé depends on the type of paella you’re enjoying and its key ingredients.

Recipes vary - and are much argued over - but traditionally the dish either includes chicken or rabbit or seafood like prawns, mussels or clams - not meat and seafood in the same dish.

Nowadays the idea of what goes into a paella is less strict though so here’s a guide to the wine pairings I think work best for different recipes whether they’re based on seafood (paella de mariscos), meat, a mixture of the two (paellal mixta) or vegetarian versions (paella de verduras). 

You’ll find that the wine you choose doesn’t need to be overly complex or expensive to complement paella perfectly. Instead, focus on wines with fresh, vibrant flavors that enhance the dish’s key ingredients without overwhelming them. Crisp whites, fruity rosés, and light-to-medium reds (and even sherry!) all have their place, depending on the style of paella being served. 

How paella’s serving style can influence the match

Paella is typically eaten at a relaxed sort of family gathering so I wouldn’t advocate anything too grand. 

A chilled dry rosé from Navarra or Rioja (one of the more traditional bottlings, not the more fruit driven rosés made in a New World style) generally hits the spot perfectly but there’s absolutely no reason why you shouldn’t drink an inexpensive red Rioja or other medium-bodied tempranillo or garnacha (grenache) or garnacha blends (again lightly chilled till cool rather than at room temperature). But I’d avoid ‘fruit-bombs’ or overly alcoholic, tannic reds.

Looking outside Spain, lighter reds and rosés from the neighbouring Languedoc-Roussillon would work well as would the new wave of characterful roussanne, marsanne and viognier-based Languedoc whites if white wine is your preference.

What I look for in a white with paella is an earthy richness rather than a sharp citrussy or floral character so I personally wouldn’t go for a sauvignon blanc or a riesling. (You’ll enjoy them more, I think, with simply prepared fried or grilled seafood on its own.)

Wine pairings for popular types of paella

Paella comes in many variations, each with its own unique set of ingredients and regional influences. Here are some of the most popular types of paella and the wines to go with them:

Paella Valenciana

Traditionally made with chicken, rabbit, and sometimes snails, along with green beans, white beans, tomatoes, rosemary, and saffron. This is the original paella from the Valencia region and often includes a mix of land-based proteins rather than seafood.

Wine pairing: A medium-bodied red wine like Tempranillo or Garnacha. 

Paella de Marisco (Seafood Paella)

This popular version focuses solely on seafood, such as prawns, mussels, clams, squid, and fish. It omits meat and relies on seafood stock to enrich the rice with a briny, oceanic flavour.

Wine pairing: A crisp, citrusy white wine like Albariño or Verdejo

Paella Mixta (Mixed Paella)

A fusion of meat (usually chicken or rabbit) and seafood, this type of paella also includes vegetables, making it a versatile and widely loved choice. It’s a more modern creation compared to the traditional styles.

Wine pairing: A versatile option like a dry rosé from Provence or a light, chilled red like a Mencía.

Paella de Verduras (Vegetable Paella)

This vegetarian version is packed with seasonal vegetables like artichokes, bell peppers, tomatoes, peas, and green beans. It’s often flavoured with herbs and spices but excludes meat and seafood.

Wine pairing: A light, herbaceous white wine such as a Verdejo or a Sauvignon Blanc.

Paella Negra (Black Paella or Arroz Negro)

Made with squid or cuttlefish and tinted with squid ink, which gives the dish its distinctive black colour. It has a rich, briny taste and is usually garnished with aioli for added flavour.

Wine pairing: A crisp, mineral-driven Albariño or a Godello from Galicia.

Paella de Mar y Montaña (Surf and Turf Paella)

Combines elements from both sea and land, such as chicken or pork with seafood like prawns or squid. It offers a mix of flavours and textures, blending the best of both worlds.

Wine pairing: A medium-bodied rosé, such as one from Navarra or a Garnacha rosé.

Paella de Bogavante (Lobster Paella)

A luxurious variation featuring lobster as the star ingredient, often paired with other seafood for a rich and indulgent meal.

Wine pairing: a fuller-bodied chardonnay always works well with lobster or try an oaked white rioja.

Image by EstudioWebDoce from Pixabay

The best wine matches for Comté

The best wine matches for Comté

After a recent visit to the Jura I've rethought my ideas about which wines make the best wine pairings for Comté cheese.

We were guided through a tasting by flavour analyst Claire Perrot who suggested a couple of matches I wouldn’t have thought of - Champagne and Alsace Pinot Noir. And since then I've been back and tried a couple more (see my update below)

Comté is France’s most popular AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) cheese by a significant margin selling about twice as much as its nearest rival Roquefort.

It’s a cooked pressed Gruyère style cheese which in fact used to be referred to as Gruyère de Comté. Individual wheels vary hugely though I found them in general more caramelly, nuttier and slightly less salty than Gruyère but less fruity than Beaufort though there will obviously be differences between winter and summer cheeses - summer cheeses being fuller-flavoured than winter ones.

The French tend to eat Comté fairly young which makes it an unchallenging partner to a wide range of wines including reds. Once it’s older, nuttier and more intense you may want to veer towards whites or some of the other suggestions below:

Local dry Arbois whites
The classic local terroir-based match. Most of the ones I tasted were a blend of Chardonnay and the local Savagnin grape which gives the wines a nutty, slightly earthy, mineral character which chimes in perfectly with the cheese. I suspect old Muscadet, which I've been tasting recently, would work well too.

Vin Jaune
Arbois’ distinctive sherry-style white is a fantastic match for 12-18 month Comtés. And on that basis so is ...

Dry(ish) sherry
Amontillado and palo cortado being the two wines recommended by the Comté website although since I’ve successfully paired dry oloroso with Gruyère I suspect it would work well with Comté too. (Sherry is more sympathetic to Comté than port, I think.)

Champagne
The big surprise. I tasted a biodynamic Champagne from Lassaigne, les Vignes de Montgueux, which was just delicious with a 15 month old winter Comté. Vintage Champagne I suspect would be fantastic with older Comtés still.

Aged or minerally Chardonnays
On the basis that Arbois wines containing Chardonnay work well others should too, particularly mature Chablis and other mature Chardonnays such as this one from Kistler that struck gold with a 56 month Comté. You wouldn’t want the oak influence to be too pronounced though.

Old white Bordeaux - an 18 year old Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan was stunning with both 2 and 4 year old Comtés at a tasting I did with affineur Bernard Antony a few years ago.

Alsace Pinot Noir
I really liked a 5 year old 2006 Schueller Pinot Noir with a fresh, milky six month old Comté but the local Poulsard grape works well too

Mature - and immature but not overoaked - Languedoc reds . . .
A surprise perhaps but I’ve drunk Languedoc Syrah - young and old - successfully with youngish Comté.

. . . and mature Spanish reds
I've had striking success with a 9 month old Comté and an 8 year old Navarra red from Chivite. Mature Rioja reservas and gran reservas of course, should work too.

So a number of different possibilities which indicates that Comté is a pretty easy-going cheese which earns its place on a cheeseboard. The common factor in the most successful pairings however seems to be age. Mature wines seem to work particularly well. The wines I’d hesitate to pair with it are high alcohol new world reds with a lot of jammy fruit and intensely herbaceous whites like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc which I don’t think would work as well. I don’t think rosé does Comté many favours either.

September 2015. On my latest visit to Fort des Rousses I discovered two other really good pairings for a full-flavoured 3 year old Comté Juraflore: a 2002 vin de paille and a MacVin du Jura, a curious blend of savagnin juice and must and brandy which tastes like a cross between a dessert wine, a grappa and a whisky!

Image © bluesky6867

Alternative wine matches for lamb

Alternative wine matches for lamb

The perfect match for lamb is red wine, right? Well, mostly but not always as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's recipes in the Guardian this weekend and my own recent experience have demonstrated

I cooked a leg of lamb, Indian-style on Friday night, an adaptation of a Madhur Jaffrey recipe. It was smothered in a spicy yoghurt marinade and accompanied by side dishes of a dry cauliflower and potato curry and spiced green beans and proved a terrific match with a Chivite Gran Feudo rosado from Navarra.

With Hugh's Greek-inspired Braised Lamb with Stuffed Vine Leaves with garlic, lemon and mint I'd chose a sharply flavoured white for preference - an unoaked Assyrtiko or a citrussy Sauvignon Blanc from South Australia

With his Barbecued, Butterflied Leg of Lamb, admittedly I would revert to a red. The recipe contains a generous amount of Pomegranate Molasses which would give the dish an exotic sweet flavour that would best be matched by a fruity Cabernet Sauvignon from say, Coonawarra or Chile. Or a ripe New Zealand, Californian or Oregon Pinot Noir

But his Lamb Chops with Anchovies and Garlic could easily take a strong dry rosé again - I'd suggest the Gran Feudo again (which is currently 20% off in Oddbins) or a southern French rosé from the Rhone or Languedoc.

If you haven't already made the deduction the time to reach for a rosé or white is when lamb is marinated with something acidic like yoghurt or lemon juice both of which can make a full-bodied red taste over-jammy and too 'hot' for summer drinking.

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