What food to pair with red Bordeaux

Although Bordeaux produces some of the most expensive wines in the world it also produces bottles that are great for everyday drinking. So what kind of food pairs best with them?

Red Bordeaux is generally blended from cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot with an occasional dash of malbec or petit verdot. Merlot usually predominates these days even on the so-called ‘left bank’ resulting in softer, fruitier, less tannic wines than would have been the case 20 years ago.

Inexpensive Bordeaux is actually quite light and easy drinking while some more modern styles of Saint-Emilion are quite full-bodied. So it depends on the price bracket you’re talking about.

Inexpensive ‘everyday drinking’ red Bordeaux - what was once referred to as a ‘lunchtime claret’

Charcuterie, especially paté and terrines. Cold roast beef. Cold game pies. Simple grilled meat like a steak frites or sausage with chips, haricot beans or lentils. Shepherd’s pie and its French equivalent hachis parmentier*. Goat and sheep cheeses, mild brie and camembert

Classic ‘left bank’ cabernet-dominated Bordeaux such as Margaux - the sort you might take to a dinner party

Grilled and roast lamb with garlic and rosemary. Roast beef, veal and venison. Steak pies. Beef daubes, ox cheek and other stews cooked in red wine. Hard British territorial cheeses such as Cheshire and red Leicester and French Mimolette. Bacon and eggs (oddly) - see this match of the week.

Riper, full-bodied Merlot-dominated bordeaux

Steak, especially richer steak dishes such as tournedos rossini. Posh burgers. Japanese-style steak dishes. Roast duck - even Chinese-style crispy duck pancakes. Christmas turkey. Macaroni cheese and macaronnade (a pasta bake with meat). Cheddar

Older vintages of Bordeaux where the primary fruit has faded

Similar to my recommendations for 'classic' Bordeaux above. Just go easy on the gravy or jus and on the accompanying vegetables. Lighter, less intense stews such as blanquette de veau. Also good with game birds such as duck, partridge and pheasant and with dishes that include mushrooms and truffles. Hard sheep cheeses

First and second growths if you’re lucky enough to get your hands on them

Simply cooked roast and grilled meat, especially lamb. Hot game pies and pithiviers. Jugged hare. Grouse. Aged parmesan.

Good general accompaniments for red bordeaux are rich potato purées (mash) and gratin dauphinoise, mushrooms and truffles and green beans with garlic.

You might also enjoy What sort of food should you serve with fine wine

The 5 best wine (and best cocktail) pairings for garlic cheesy bread

I wouldn’t have thought of proferring wine pairings for garlic cheesy bread had I not stumbled across the fact that it was the most re-pinned image on Pinterest.

I would have assumed you would eat it with other dishes that would have more impact on the wine you were drinking but it seems for garlic cheesy bread fanatics nothing must get in the way of their favourite food.

But you still need something to drink and here’s what I suggest

Sparkling wine

Assuming you’re tearing it apart in front of the TV a glass of bubbly should go down rather well. Doesn’t have to be champagne (although why not?) - a glass of prosecco would do nicely. Or even - gulp! - a moscato if that rocks your boat. (Bit sweet for me.)

Sauvignon Blanc

If GCB is everyone’s favourite snack why not drink everyone’s favourite white with it? Citrus flavours are always great with garlic.

Pinot Grigio, Gavi or other dry Italian whites

A good choice because the flavour is not too assertive - it won’t get in the way of that garlicky, cheesy bliss-out.

Riesling

Bit of a left-field choice this but a crisp fruity young riesling would really hit the spot. Especially if riesling proves to be the new Sauvignon Blanc

Merlot

White wine is better with GCB than red, I reckon but if red’s what you enjoy, red is what you should drink. I toyed with pinot noir but I frankly think Merlot would be better with all that garlic.

A margarita

I like the idea of a cocktail with GCB and what could be better than a margarita? A classic one I’d suggest not one of those fancy ones with strawberry or passionfruit. Though please don’t let me stop you ...

Image ©Brent Hofacker at shutterstock.com

Matching food and Priorat

I was reminded about my trip to Priorat almost exactly two years ago by my recent visit to the Roussillon which has a similar terroir. And I think the wines would go with similar kinds of food. These were my suggested pairings at the time . . .

Priorat has some of the most expensive wines in Spain but they’re also high in alcohol and reflect their wild, untamed terroir. There’s a marked difference between wines from ‘hot’ vintages like 2003 and 2005 and the more recent fresher cooler wines of 2007 and 2008 and between older vintages and younger ones. The former can develop quite bosky ‘animal’ flavours, particularly those that contain old Carignan but then, surprisingly some can be quite delicate, almost ethereal.

In terms of comparison with other wine regions I would think Châteauneuf is a better reference point than Bordeaux despite the presence in many wines of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Although they obviously appeal to the Asian market to me they’re not the obvious bottle to reach for with subtle, delicate cuisines such as Cantonese or Japanese (although some of the top winemakers are making wines that would match well). The whites (which are again similar to those of the Rhône) are more suited to cooked shellfish, fish and vegetable dishes than to raw or lightly cooked ones.

Like most great wines most would benefit from being served with simple food and as full-bodied reds, grilled and roast meat, especially lamb and beef. The bigger, more broadshouldered wines would pair well with meat served rare with a degree of charring; older vintages with slow roasts like slow roast shoulder of lamb. Lighter more graceful wines from higher vineyards or more recent vintages could work with dishes like braised rabbit. (I particularly liked Sara Perez Ovejero of Mas Martinet’s suggestion of pairing her sumptuous Els Escurcons with braised rabbit wih olives and herbs)

In fact furred rather than feathered game seems a good direction to go. I’d also like to pair Priorat with venison, hare and wild boar (or rare breed pork), again slow-cooked. Think oxtail too. I found a slightly funky 2004 Vall Llach absolutely transformed by a dish of braised oxtail with Priorat and prunes, bringing its primary fruit once more to the fore. It just seems the right thing to do with such strongly terroir-driven wines to pair them with food from the region - or across the Pyrenees with dishes from south-west France. Priorat and cassoulet? Priorat and Toulouse sausages with Puy lentils? Priorat with duck confit? They’d all work.

Then of course there’s cheese. We didn’t have much while we were away but Priorat, which has much in common with rich, brambly wines like Amarone and those from the Douro, would make a good companion for stronger, more challenging cheeses, especially blues. And on the basis of successfully pairing a mature Manchego with some of the wines I’d definitely look at some of Spain’s other excellent sheeps’ cheeses.

What to drink with Scandinavian food

If culture and ‘terroir’ are a basis for deciding which drinks bestmatch a particular cuisine then beer must have a strong claim to bepaired with Scandinavian food.

Certainly London’s newest Scandi restaurant Madsen believes so offering a matching beer with every course for their recent menu for the London Restaurant Festival.

It was a nice idea that didn’t quite come off because of the quantities of beer involved. I ordered an Aer India Pale Ale from Denmark which was fine with my main course of ‘Hakkebøf med bløde løg’ (aka Danish beef burger with beetroot) but much less good with my ‘curry-marinated herring with green apples’ and a delicious smoked salmon dip, both of would have been better with a light lager or pilsner. Ideally you’d be able to order 250ml (or smaller) glasses so that you could match each course. 500ml is a lot of beer to drink for lunch (for girls at least ;-)

The food though was lovely - a modern take on smørrebrød with slightly larger helpings than you would get in Denmark but smaller than a standard main course - perfect for lunch. I also got to taste (though didn’t order) a fantastic baked crème caramel made with Svaneke ‘Choko’ Chocolate Stout so they’re obviously playing around with the idea of beer in food too.

There are other drink options, obviously, with this style of food though beer almost always scores better than wine with anything pickled in my opinion. A pan-fried fillet of Irish plaice with steamed broccoli tossed in oyster remoulade I also tasted would have been excellent with a minerally Sauvignon Blanc and my beefburger would have gone well with a Bordeaux or any similar Cabernet Merlot blend.

I like Madsen. It has a friendly, café-style design and atmosphere (very Scandi) and offers something genuinely distinctive to the London dining scene. They’re apparently thinking of putting on beer dinners so keep an eye on their website and on Twitter where they tweet as MadsenLondon.

Madsen is at 20 Old Brompton Road, London SW7 3DL. Tel 020 7225 2772.

I ate at Madsen as a guest of the restaurant.

Photo by Nextvoyage