Pairings | Bourgueil
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What type of wine pairs best with Vietnamese food? (updated)
Wednesday marked not only the start of the Chinese New Year but the Vietnamese New Year celebrations too - known as Tet.
As in China there are certain foods which are traditional to the occasion such as pickled vegetables and candied fruits, none of which are particularly wine-friendly but in general I find Vietnamese food, with its milder heat and fragrant herbal flavours easier to match than Thai.
Given that quite a lot of the dishes are food you’d pick up on the street you might not have a glass of wine conveniently to hand but wine, particularly dry white wine, works surprisingly well.
Which grape varieties though?
The grape variety I’ve generally found goes best overall with Vietnamese food where several dishes are generally served at the same time is Austrian grüner veltliner, a combination I discovered a good few years ago now at The Slanted Door in San Francisco.
Its own slightly herbal, green pepper character seems to complement the herbal notes in many Vietnamese dishes perfectly.
Other good options are dry riesling - you need slightly less sweetness than for the hot/sweet/sour flavours of Thai food and dry whites such as albarino, muscadet and assyrtiko especially with lighter dishes like summer rolls and Vietnamese chicken salad such as this one from Uyen Luu.
I’d avoid rich chardonnays although young unoaked Chablis would work perfectly well
Sparkling wine would also be an easy drinking option - an occasion when a good prosecco could come into its own but other fizz such as crémant would work too
Provence - or similar Languedoc - rosé would also go well with the lighter fresher dishes that are typical of the Vietnamese kitchen.
If you fancy a red I’d go for a light cabernet-franc-based Loire red such as a Saumur or Bourgueil, a Beaujolais Villages or other gamay or a pinot noir
Soft drinks or cocktails with an element of sharpness or sourness also hit the spot as you can see from this ginger and lemongrass cordial (Bottlegreen does a ready made one in the UK)
I also remember having a delicious tamarind whisky sour with some Vietnamese fish sauce chicken wings at a restaurant called Pok Pok in Portland, Oregon. Here’s a similar recipe for the cocktail and the wings.
With pho - as with most noodle dishes with broth - I find a light lager a better pairing but again grüner veltliner or dry riesling would work perfectly well. Ditto the famous Vietnamese sandwich banh mi although Uyen Luu also suggests green tea.
Top photo © Nunung Noor Aisyah at shutterstock.com
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