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La Fromagerie: a return visit to cheese heaven
Marylebone High Street in central London has become a mecca for foodies in the last few years but the jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Patricia Michelson’s La Fromagerie, a glorious jumble of a shop that sells everything from cheese (obviously) to chocolate, via honeys and herbal infusions.
The cheese room itself is on the right, full of great golden wheels of gruyere, cheddar and parmesan, oozing Vacherin Mont d’Or, grey-green moulded goats cheeses (matured for longer than most other cheesemongers dare), glorious globes of milky-white mozzarella . . . it’s sheer cheese heaven.
There’s a traiteur side selling salads, cold meats and wonderful cakes, some great breads, an eclectic selection of vegetables including hard-to-find cavolo nero) and an interesting and highly individual selection of wines, mainly from Italy and France. All this produce is also available in the ‘cafe’, which, if truth be told is a couple of trestle tables and 3 small ones all crammed into the back of the shop. You just pray there’ll be space when you turn up.
The other day I had a lunchtime salad of lentils with chicken, chestnuts, cooked cavolo nero and some fabulously crispy bits of fried speck (bacon) which Patricia insisted (rightly) I try with a glass of Corbieres - a Chateau Prieur de Bubas The Garrigue - a wonderfully earthy combination.
She has just relaunched her website www.lafromagerie.co.uk (on which mooing cows and cow bells greet you as you log on). Although you can’t buy cheese from the site you can check out the ‘virtual cheese room’ which lists the cheeses they stock and, in a few cases, the wines that pair best with them. (There are, apparently, more pairings in the pipeline) Patricia also holds regular food and wine events, many in conjunction with Slow Food.
Wine Pairings for Smoked Meat
One of our readers from Texas wants to know: what wine works with smoked meat?
Are there not some classic wines, perhaps Chateauneuf-du-Pape that are typically recommended with smoky meats? I ask this as here in Texas we are big grillers and pit smokers of meat, meat, meat! I'm thinking there truly are wines that are good with smoked meats and wonder if you might recommend a couple.
Reds are rarely mentioned for their compatibility with smokiness. If you talk about smoked chicken or smoked duck for instance, which in Europe will normally be served cold you're typically looking more at off-dry or sweet wines like a riesling spatlese. That sweetness also provides the key, in my view, to reds that go with smoked and barbecued meat which I would imagine (I can't claim to be an expert) need a red with a touch of sweetness much as curries do. Something like a young fruity Zinfandel or a Chilean Cabernet or Carmenère.
What I think you probably don't want - just as you should avoid them with spicy dishes - are heavily oaked young reds or ones that have a spicy component of their own like northern Rhone syrah. I think you're on the right track with Chateauneuf though it's quite an expensive proposition with a barbecue. A good Cotes du Rhone Villages would do the job and there are plenty of inexpensive southern French reds such as Faugeres, Costieres de Nimes or even Cotes du Roussillon that I suspect would work really well. Finally if you find a wine that's pure Mourvèdre or Mourvèdre-dominated that should be interesting. A wine that definitely does taste as if it includes smoke!
Wine Pairings for 8 Popular Types of Smoked Meat (and Fish)
1. Smoked Brisket - Zinfandel
Why? The bold flavors of smoked brisket pair well with the fruit-forward and spicy notes of a Zinfandel.
2. Smoked Pork Ribs - Syrah / Shiraz
Why? Syrah or Shiraz has a rich, bold flavor with smoky and peppery notes that complement the smoky and savory flavors of pork ribs.
3. Smoked Chicken - Chardonnay
Why? A buttery, oaked Chardonnay can enhance the smoky and mild flavors of smoked chicken, providing a nice balance.
4. Smoked Salmon - Pinot Noir
Why? The light and fruity characteristics of Pinot Noir pair well with the rich, oily texture and smoky flavor of smoked salmon. See also 10 different drinks to pair with smoked salmon.
5. Smoked Sausages - Riesling
Why? A slightly sweet Riesling can balance the saltiness and spices in smoked sausages, providing a refreshing contrast.
6. Smoked Turkey - Pinot Gris/Grigio
Why? The crisp and slightly citrusy flavors of Pinot Gris/Grigio pair well with the mild smokiness of smoked turkey.
7. Smoked Duck - Merlot
Why? The velvety texture and plum flavors of Merlot complement the rich and gamey taste of smoked duck.
8. Smoked Ham - Beaujolais
Why? The light and fruity nature of Beaujolais pairs nicely with the sweet and salty flavors of smoked ham.
These pairings take into account the flavor profiles and textures of the smoked meats, ensuring a harmonious balance with the wines.
See also: What is the best type of wine for a barbeque
Image credit: Julia Filirovska
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