Match of the week

Bread pudding with Mount Gay XO Rum
As I remarked last week it’s been rum with practically everything since we’ve been in Barbados - or if not rum, Banks beer - so I nearly went for a rare wine pairing - Provencal rosé with tuna poke - as my match of the week.
Rosé seems to be the most popular wine on the island by a long chalk - understandable given the climate. We also had it at the Nikki Beach with sushi which worked equally well.
But it’s still cold back home in the UK so I thought you’d benefit more from a rum pairing you might not have thought of: XO rum and bread pudding.
The dessert, which was served at one of Speightstown’s newer restaurants Hugo’s was a particularly good version of this classic Bajan dish - a wonderfully rich but light bread pudding with Mount Gay rum and condensed milk sauce (as good as it sounds) and rum and raisin ice-cream - intense enough to take a serious spirit in its stride.
Although I’m a fan of Mount Gay which is made in Barbados - we’ve been using it all the time in our rum punches - I hadn’t tried the Extra Old bottling before and it’s really impressive. You can buy it for £33 at the time of writing on Amazon.
See also The best pairings for rum and rum-based cocktails
I ate at Hugo’s as a guest of the restaurant

Cheese and cassava croquettes and rum punch
This week's match of the week is a bit random, admittedly, because everything goes with rum punch in Barbados but I wanted to single out these delicious croquettes we bought in the Holders Hill farmer's market.
Oddly they were made by a smallholder called Domi’s Delights who specialises in Peruvian cuisine so maybe they were not authentically Bajan but Peruvian-inspired.
In any case they were first-rate - light and fluffy with a deliciously molten cheesy centre (not the most flattering pic, I admit so you’ll have to take my word for it)
The rum punch was a pre-mix from a bar called St Maria’s which sounds like a bit of a cop-out but for some reason there’s a shortage of the tiny fragrant local limes and from past experience we knew it was as good as almost any we could make from scratch. Last year we tried to find the bar where they made it but it had closed so I guess they find it more profitable to bottle it and sell it to the large ex-pat community here.
It cost 67Bds$ or £26 for 1.75 litres which sounds a lot but is equivalent to 2 1/2 standard bottles. Or around 15 individual rum punches. (Booze is cheaper than food on the island!)
It also goes with practically any kind of snack you want to nibble with it from a flying fish cutter - as you'll see from last year - to a bag of plantain crisps. Followed by a the excellent local Banks beer.

Spicy paneer pancakes and a ginger-turmeric soda
Although I’m not doing Dry January I am trying to take a break from booze on at least a couple of days a week so when I went to Romy Gill’s pop-up at Carousel last week I opted for the alcohol free options.
I started with a really good cocktail (hate the word mocktail) called a Tea Total Sour which was made with lapsang souchong tea, rhubarb cordial, lemon and egg white but the punchy ginger and turmeric soda they called A Sip of the Sun I had with the meal that was the real find from a pairing point of view. It was brilliant with Romy’s second course, a spicy Panch Phoran Chilli paneer pancake and also with the pan-fried Amritsari Masala hake with moilee (a Goan style fish and coconut curry) and tamarind spiced octopus that followed it (yes, the food was as exciting as it sounds)
The restaurant manager Matt Varonaangan told me he made the base cordial with cold-pressed ginger and turmeric juice, adding 25% of the volume of the resulting juice in sugar and a little citric acid then topping up with tonic or soda. The turmeric really chimed in well with the paneer and fish dishes - proving again that alcohol-free drinks are just as good, if not better than alcoholic ones with spicy food.
I attended Romy’s Carousel pop-up as her guest. Her own restaurant, Romy's Kitchen is in Thornbury, Gloucestershire.

Treacle tart with Ledaig 10 year old malt whisky
Occasionally you come across a pairing so brilliant, so simple that you wonder why you’ve never thought of it before and so it was on Saturday evening.
We’d been talking about whisky and my friend Nick had been saying I should try his 10 year old Ledaig from the Tobermory distillery on the Isle of Mull which he impressively pronounced correctly as lech-ig (for an explanation see this invaluable post on the blog Cask Notes. I’m glad he did - I’d have been going round pronouncing it le-dayg for ever more.)
My friend Andy (cookery writer Andrea Leeman) had made a traditional treacle tart* which is made not with treacle but golden syrup and I wondered if that might be a good opportunity to try the whisky rather than waiting until after dinner. And so it proved.
The whisky tastes (to me) like a cross between a lowland and an island whisky with traces of peat (although it’s described on some sites as heavily peated) and a charming sweet heathery character that chimed in perfectly with the tart making it even more of a treat.
I don’t think a richer sherried whisky like The Macallan would work as well though I’m thinking it *would* be good with a pecan pie. Either would make a great dessert for Burns Night.
* there's a similar recipe from James Martin on the BBC website

Roast turkey and zinfandel
This last fortnight, you won’t be surprised to hear, has been all about festive food particularly The Bird which we’ve finally despatched but before we move on to healthier fare I wanted to give a shout out to my top pairing for turkey this year which wasn’t even on my hitlist.
It’s zinfandel - or rather a zinfandel blend - the 2013 Geyserville from one of my favourite Californian producers, Ridge. (The other grapes are carignane, petite sirah and mataro aka mourvèdre) Five years on from harvest it was still wonderfully vibrant but with a delicious mellowness from a bit of bottle age. It took all the big flavours on the plate in its stride actually outshining the other bottle we had on the table, a 2007 Pomerol from Chateau La Conseillante although that was lovely too. (Both better suited to the main turkey dinner than the leftovers though, note)
If you fancy buying some Corks of Cotham have it at the best price I could spot in the UK at £39.99. Yes, I know that’s expensive but we didn’t pay that for it though more than the £18-odd I can remember it cost when it first came across my radar.
So bear that in mind for next year. I’ll be updating the post shortly!
Thanks for visiting the site in 2018 and a very happy new year to you all.
Latest post

Most popular

My latest book

News and views



