Match of the week

Carrot, lemon and tahini soup with Roussanne
i haven't written about soup and wine for ages - I've always felt a bit ambivalent about it on the grounds that it seems counter-intuitive to pair one liquid with another - but this is the second post in as many weeks (the other one being here)
This time it was a rich carrot soup from Ruby Tandoh’s clever new book Cook As You Are but unusual in that it included tahini and lemon. I happened to have a bottle of the South African producer Rustenberg’s 2020 Roussanne open which worked really well being quite full-flavoured itself but with a freshness that complemented and underlined the lemony notes in the soup. (I also tried a vermentino but it was too sharp so reckon an old vine chenin blanc or Cape white blend would have worked too as would a white Côtes du Rhône.)
Roussanne is an underrated grape variety that’s most often found in a white Rhône blend but has a seductively peachy character of its own. I’ve also enjoyed it with roast chicken.
You can buy this one from branches of Booths and Lea & Sandeman in London for £12.50 or online from SAwines.co.uk for £10.99 a bottle. Rustenberg does a good malbec too.
For other soup pairings check out my post on matching wine and soup

Koftas with tahini and orange wine
I’ve been enthusiastically cooking from Sami Tamimi’s and Tara Wigley's new book Falastin this past couple of weeks and made their recipe for koftas with tahini, potato and onion over the weekend during a Zoom cooking session with a couple of pals in Bristol.
I picked an orange wine, Bulgarian Heritage from a producer called Via Vinera to pair with it on the basis that middle-eastern lamb dishes generally go well with orange wine but in fact it was the very rich tahini sauce which was spiked with lemon juice and garlic that really made the wine sing.
Sami, as you may or may not know, is Yotam Ottolenghi’s business partner and collaborated with him on the wonderful Jerusalem and Ottolenghi Simple but this is a tribute to his home country of Palestine.
The wine which comes from the 2018 vintage is made from a Bulgarian grape called dimyat and is quite aromatic with a pronounced flavour of dried apricots, quince, and yes, orange. Not at all scary so quite a good bottle to try if you’ve never had orange wine before. Particularly if you’re eating lamb although the Via Vinera website also charmingly suggests it as ‘demanded company’ for seafood salads, gnocchi and pesto, salmon trout baked in salt, grilled pork chops and soft cheeses.
You can buy it from the Wine Society if you’re a member for £51 a case of six (the equivalent of £8.50 a bottle but they’re only doing unsplit cases at the moment) but I’m confident that other orange wines would work too.
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