Match of the week

Braised short ribs and Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre)

Braised short ribs and Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre)

One of the tricky decisions to make when you’re serving a rich, winey stew is whether to go for a wine of equal weight or a lighter medium-bodied wine as a refreshing contrast.

We tried both options last night with a dish of short ribs I’d cooked overnight in the best part of a bottle of a Marquesa de la Cruz GSM (Garnacha Syrah Mazuelo) from Campo de Borja 2010 (6.99 Sainsbury’s) an ultraripe, lush, almost porty red that clocked in at 14.5%. Great for the ribs, not so great with them (too soft and sweet for what had become deep savoury flavours)

The final dish also defeated a Chianti Classico - much too light - but found its soulmate in another Spanish red, a Casa Castillo Monastrell 2009 Jumilla 14% imported by C & D wines, which turns out to retail at only 5.33 from Vinissimus though they have moved on to the 2010 vintage. It too was full-bodied (14%) but had a spiciness and structure that the GSM lacked. A terrific match.

Braised short ribs in red wine with Les Clos Perdus Corbières

Braised short ribs in red wine with Les Clos Perdus Corbières

The weather has been so absurdly autumnal this week that I cooked a substantial stew for friends on Saturday night, an intensely flavoured braise of beef short ribs (or pot au feu as our local butcher describes them) with plenty of lush, red wine (a Valdivieso Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maipo Valley in Chile which is part of the Waitrose own label range).

Because this cut is quite fatty even when skimmed I wanted something drier with more pronounced acidity to accompany it and had the perfect answer in a couple of beautifully crafted reds I’d come across at the Bristol Wine and Food Fair last month and which I'd been dying to try with food.

They’re from a domaine called Les Clos Perdus which is based in Peyriac de Mer in Languedoc and is run on biodynamic principles by an Australian and an Englishman with an unusual background - Paul Old, a former dancer who trained as a winemaker in Australia and Hugo Stewart who used to be a farmer in Wiltshire.

The two wines we drank with the stew were the 2005 Cuvée 31, a blend of Mourvèdre, Carignan and Grenache from Peyriac de Mer and 2005 Prioundo, a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. They couldn’t have been better with the stew though being a Mourvèdre fan I marginally preferred the Cuvée 31 which was more supple and aromatic. The Prioundo struck me as very similar to a Priorat.

You can buy their wines online by the case (Prioundo is £132, Cuvée 31, £149) or by the bottle from independent wine merchants such as Green & Blue in London and Corks of Cotham in Bristol. You can also find them in a number of top London restaurants such as Gordon Ramsay at Claridges, Club Gascon and The Square.

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