Match of the week

Rhubarb cheesecake and 2007 Peller Estates Cabernet Franc Ice Wine

Rhubarb cheesecake and 2007 Peller Estates Cabernet Franc Ice Wine

With four days in Edinburgh and three at the Ballymaloe Food & Drink Litfest in Co Cork this weekend I’ve been overwhelmed with good food and drink matches but as I haven’t singled out a dessert for a while I’m making Tom Kitchin’s Rhubarb cheesecake my hero dish this week.

Frankly I don’t understand why everyone doesn’t serve cheesecake with rhubarb. It’s the most perfect combination, especially with a scoop of rhubarb sorbet.

I confess I’d never have thought of pairing it with a red Canadian icewine so full marks to the sommelier at The Kitchin for coming up that one. It was paler than you might imagine for a red wine with more than a hint of strawberries and rhubarb itself which worked really well with the cheesecake. And the intense sweetness and viscosity dealt with the sorbet which can kill lighter dessert wines.

The 2007 doesn’t seem to be available but you can buy the 2008 from Slurp for £15.35 a quarter bottle or the 2010 vintage for £41.99 a bottle from Invinity wines (see wine-searcher.com for other stockists)

Not cheap but a real show-off pairing!

Sauternes and rhubarb

Sauternes and rhubarb

This may sound an unlikely combination but bear with me.

We went round for dinner with friends on Saturday night and they generously dug out a half bottle of Chateau Suduiraut 1996 to drink with a rhubarb sponge and cream. That might sound quite a challenging pairing for an old Sauternes - and in truth the combination would probably have been better still if the wine had been a shade younger - but the pudding was quite light and, more importantly, the acidity of the rhubarb kept the sweetness of the topping in check making sure it didn't steal the wine's thunder.

The cream also helped as it does with sweet wines and sharp fruit - I can imagine rhubarb and panna cotta also working well.

As that lovely pale pink rhubarb is in peak season now I recommend the combination to you*. Other sweet Bordeaux or New World late harvest Sauvignon like Concha y Toro's Late Harvest Sauvignon would be a less expensive option.

The only thing that might throw it is if you cook the rhubarb with a fair amount of orange. In which case a late harvest Muscat might fare better.

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