Match of the week

 Brined smoked pork and refosco

Brined smoked pork and refosco

It’s always a toss-up whether to drink red or white wine with pork. I normally go for white but I really liked this combination of a brined smoked pork chop with a light(ish), slightly smoky refosco at Casa in Bristol the other night.

It was accompanied by yet more pork in the shape of cabbage with pancetta swimming in an indulgently buttery sauce so it could well have been that that fired the pairing too. Anyway, safe to say, refosco and pork.

Refosco is a grape from the Veneto in north east Italy. This bottle which came from Molmenti & Celot, was a 2020 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso from just outside Venice had a lovely wild hedgerow berry fruit with a hint of bitterness that made it particularly refreshing. It would also be really good with mountain ham and other salumi (charcuterie).

You can buy it for a very reasonable £12.99 from Wanderlust wine which makes it a bit of a bargain

Casa by the way is a more casual relaunch of what used to be Peter Sanchez-Iglesias top end restaurant Casamia and I like it the better for it. It’s pricey but the food is delicious. (I was a guest btw)

Here's another type of pairing with refosco you might enjoy.

Cannelloni and Refosco

Cannelloni and Refosco

When did you last see cannelloni on a menu? It was one of my favourite dishes when I was growing up then it seemed to vanish into the mists of time so it’s good to see it back at the boys from the Clove Club’s new restaurant Luca.

It’s quite a fancy version, mind you, filled with calves’ head ragu (‘course it is) with marjoram and artistic slicks of white sauce and tomato sauce - at the same time lighter and richer than the version I remember from my local trat.

It needed a wine with fresh acidity and got that in spades from a delicious 2013 Refosco Specogna from Friuli they have on their short but appealing wine by the glass list.

Valvona & Crolla and Wilde Wines stock the 2012 at £19.95 and £19.99 respectively. If you want to know more about Refosco consult Jancis Robinson et al's excellent Wine Grapes.

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